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Ignition switch

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  • #16
    Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
    the way to get them out is a center punch and a hammer, knock the botl in a counter clock wise direction.
    No, the way to get them out is with a small socket or use an Allen head screw.. Or buy the right socket for them. They are tamper resistant not tamper proof.

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    • #17
      ok, cool, the center punch is the way I always do it, I'll add that too my list of tricks.

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      • #18
        Thanks for all the advice guys. It looks like a major pain in the neck to get at, but maybe it's not so bad. I'll see if I can find the proper tool tonight and monkey with it.

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        • #19
          it's not that hard really. If you want pain in the neck, put new piston rings on, for an ignition,

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          • #20
            LOL! Aight. I'll give it a whirl tonight. I've got the bike all ripped apart with the fairings off and all, it just looked like there was a lot of big heavy metal frame parts all around that thing making it tough to get a tool in there, but on second observation it looks like I can finagle something in there.

            Hope this solves my electrical issues. Thanks guys.

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            • #21
              FYI the bottom of the ignition switch (at least on the pre 98) comes off and you can access the contacts. The could be cleaned up if you're having issues. I had that, funky lights, ignition cutting out.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                BP, I imagine you did this on a pre 98. Pre 98's are NOT safety torx, they are sheer head bolts, the way to get them out is a center punch and a hammer, knock the botl in a counter clock wise direction. 98+ just get the right safety torx. It's hella easy.
                I've got a pre, and I need to remove my ignition switch. I thought it would be easier to keep both pre and post here in the same thread, especially since it was only titled "Ignition Switch". Anyway, I need clarification, mostly because I'm pretty stupid. :mrgreen:

                So does the above mean that the two bolts under the switch are sheer head, and I should get a unch for them? Or is that referring to a bolt under the stem bolt, because that's what the service manual looks like... From the description above, it sounds like I just punch a hole in the two bolts on either side of the ignition switch from underneath, then remove them using the punch and hammer. Is that right?

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                • #23
                  yes

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                  • #24
                    Sweet. Thanks (again) arsenic.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by stealth View Post
                      So does the above mean that the two bolts under the switch are sheer head, and I should get a unch for them?
                      umm a lunch, a hunch? or a wrench?

                      Or is that referring to a bolt under the stem bolt, because that's what the service manual looks like... From the description above, it sounds like I just punch a hole in the two bolts on either side of the ignition switch from underneath, then remove them using the punch and hammer. Is that right?
                      It's like this:
                      There is a flange on the screw, you punch a divot into the flange then use the punch at an angle to rotate the screw. But try the other methods (vise grips or the Allen head screw) first. It can be a bear to use the punch.. I think it took paradox and I a half an hour and three donuts to get his out using a combination of methods..

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                      • #26
                        Dumb question here - I need some edumication. . .

                        I went to Sears and they had two flavors of Torx tools. One was the "plain old" Torx tools that we all know and love, where the tool is essentially a shaped shaft that inserts into a corresponding shaped depression on the end of a screw or bolt.

                        The second variety wasn't called "safety torx" (and nobody there had any idea what a "safety Torx" was), but called "E-Torx". It's sort of the negative or inverse of a conventional Torx tool - the tool itself has the shaped depression in the end to fit over/around a shaped shaft that is presumably the bolt - kind of like a socket fits over a regular bolt.

                        So screw it, I bought the "E-torx" set figuring it can't hurt to have. I have regular plain old Torx bits at home, so if "safety Torx" and "Torx" are the same, I'm okay there.

                        Which is it? I've got both so I'm covered but I really want to yank this sucker out tonight and get the bike running this weekend. Thanks all.

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                        • #27
                          "safety torx"

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                          • #28
                            What's the difference between that & regular Torx though? The guys at Sears looked at me like I had three heads when I asked for safety Torx.

                            Check this :



                            Is it a triple-square or summin'?

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                            • #29
                              the safety torx has a divit cut out of the middle.

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                              • #30
                                Hmm. Okay then. I may need to "modify" one of mine with a dremel or something. Thanks.

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