[shpielers]

Alrighty, got the left fork spacer taken care of. Also got pics updated throughout the thread. Last week I got in a new (used) ignition/gas cap/seat lock from Locomotion (thanks again!) as my ignition was a bit dodgy and the PO essentially hotwired the bike. New ignition going on when I reinstall the left fork/remove the right (to trim its spacer). The gas cap and seat lock aren't high priority, so they'll be waiting a bit for install.

[Locomotion]

[shpielers]

Got the left fork reattached yesterday, pulled the right one. Glad I did, the rebound is wonky...as in not rebounding. I'm pretty damn sure it's the oring that goes on the rebound stack so guess who gets to disassemble the entire fork...
Also the threads on the damping rod are jacked so the preload adjuster was barely threaded on. And it's an odd size (10x1mm) so guess who now gets to brave the crazy chaos that is Black Friday to pick up a new dye...


Edit:
Ha! Submitted that at 11:27. Appropriate. (Yes I AM that easily amused)

[shpielers]

Think I have everything sorted out with the right fork now:

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2340142#post2340142

Full reassembly and more thorough testing tomorrow. (hopefully)

Here's the buggered thread:


cleaned up:


Here's everything all apart for the 3rd or 5th time


Here's the oring I was suspecting of being pinched


Turns out I didn't clean up some holes I had to drill (the ones required for accessing/disassembling the valve stacks) super well, so they could possibly catch on either the teflon oring (above pic) on the rebound stack, or the normal viton(?) oring on the compression stack. Cleaned that up too.


Turns out that wasn't causing my issue though. I had (due to shit harbor freight tools) overtightened the rebound stack, so the shims couldn't flex to let oil pass though. Fixed that, polished the damping rod some more since I had it out again, and reassembled/reinstalled.

[katanarider]

Valves adjusted...Valves...sigh...cylinder 1 intake was just loose (.25mm), all others were tight. 2&1 exhaust... .04mm... Fucksticks. Guess who's going to rent a compression tester tomorrow... Worst case scenario this bike gets a B12 transplant.

This is from post # 54
Can you help me understand why you think a compression test is necessary after you did your valve adjustment ? The only thing I can think of is fuel is washing oil off the cylinder. How do you explain the blackend #1 plug ?
My #1 cylinder is warming up extremely quick compared to the other pipes and that plug was fowled sort of like yours but with more oil. I get light smoke from that cylinder after warm up but only during revs, at idle is goes away. At this point I'm on board with the compression test but I'd like to understand before I purchase a tester.
Thanks

[shpielers]

Compression test in that case was warranted (I felt) because the clearance was very tight. I wanted to make sure the valves hadn't been contacting the pistons and getting bent. That should show up on a compression test as a leak on that cylinder. Also with the plugs being so oily I was wondering if the rings were worn and allowing lots of blow by. The bike also had a K&N air filter, so I also wasn't sure if maybe someone had tried to make the bike richer to compensate for the leaning effect of the filter.

Generally speaking, if a cylinder is warming up faster than the others, it is running lean for some reason, and the plug will have a more grey/ash look to it. I'd try looking for air leaks if you haven't already.


Was hoping to work on the bike this weekend, but it's been raining off and on, so no dice. I've got Friday off work and so far the forecast is 50% chance of rain. Hoping it doesn't so I can install my new (used) ignition/gas cap/seat lock.

[shpielers]

Got some work done yesterday!!

Installed a new lockset (thanks again Locomotion!). The original ignition was hotwired due to a wiring issue. I could have just bought a new ignition and swapped out the tumblers, so as to keep the same key, but didnt want to risk it this time. I'll try that on my 250 ninja when I swap gas caps.

So, new ignition, gas cap, and seat lock installed. Got the coil mod relay installed. (Need to resolder some of the connections, got some solder in the spade connections so they don't grip very tightly.)
Not super well soldered spade connections:

Location of install: this is where my CA emissions bits and bobs went before they mysteriously disappeared...


I followed Black_Peter's how to for the coil relay mod.

EDIT: turns out the coil relay mod is actually required for me. When I bought the bike a year ago, it would start/run without it. Now however, it won't. Didn't bother measuring voltage drop. But now I know I need to inspect the harness once I move back to somewhere with a garage.

Got a new cam chain tensioner installed.

I only did this one for #$*(& and giggles really. But MAN am I glad I did. I was figuring a spring that has been tightly compressed for 22 years isn't going to be very happy. I was right. Old spring: 88mm. New spring...98mm. Betcha that cant be good. So what was originally intended for some peace of mind may have actually saved the engine from gernading later. So that is completely awesome.



Not a very hard procedure, assuming you know how to remove you gas tank and carbs. Once those were out of the way, popped off the #3 and 4 intake boots to the head, (for wrench clearance) and removed the large nut that holds the spring in place. Next, removed the two smaller screws that hold the tensioner assembly in place. Reset the tensioner, pop the unit back in, pop in the new spring, place a new crush washer, and torque down the bolt. Turn the engine over by hand a few times (you should head the tensioner click a few times) to set it, and you're good to go. You can also push on the tensioner with a screw driver/pencil/other to set the tensioner.

Next up, 5* advance. I know, I know, I said I was going to do a 3*. And then it occurred to me...Normal USA timing is set at 4*. CA is set at 7*. A 3* advance would be based off the normal USA setting, not the CA spec. So a 3* would put me at...the same exact thing. By using a 5*, I'm only gaining 2 degrees, but it's still something. And hell, it came with the bike, might as well. I'll just resell the 3* that I purchased.
So, I was mistaken earlier when I was thinking CA spec at 7* + a 5* advance would be 12* in total. It would be 4* (USA spec) + 5* = 9. Teeny gain, but F it, why not.

Also got the rear left turn signal mounted. Not installed. One of the POs hacked the connections off the harness...wtf....why would you do that...So I'm about to run by the shop, pick up some connectors, and get that going. Same deal for the right side. I'll need to rig something for the front as well.

Question: the front turn signals have 3 wires, the rears only have 2 - what's the extra wire for? A ground?? I don't currently have a spare $300 for OEM front blinkers, so I'm going to improvise. Helpful to know what that 3rd wire does though. I might have to break out the wiring diagram, but I'm shit with those.

After that...I want to get a mityvac and hit the clutch/brake lines with it. (probably not till after xmas spending...) After that, time to add some fuel and see what happens!

I'm getting there!

[shpielers]

Picked up some molex type connections. Have the front and rear signals themselves good to go, just need to get the connectors on the harness end Installed. Should be happening Wednesday morning.

I have a box of parts from a 250 ninja - for the time being I'm using some of the spare lights from that for the front blinkers. Not the greatest look, I know...but should be functional. As is usual, pics will follow eventually...


Edit: don't buy cheap molex connectors. I did. They were shit. They physically couldn't make contact when the two ends were put together. Awesome concept, just make sure you get quality ones. If anyone has a recommendation on a brand, let me know. I went back and used spade connectors for now, but would prefer molex type eventually.

[92xjunker]

The third wire is for running lights on the signals.

[shpielers]

Oooo! Thanks! I had 0 idea the stock blinkers had integrated running lights. Now I might just shell out for the OEM...(eventually)

[92xjunker]

Crap!! Just threw out two of those. Took the ones I needed for GSXFJim's bike and chucked the rest. I should check for needs first.

[shpielers]

No worries. I've got a couple of boxes of parts I need to start getting rid of myself.

[maniac1886]

Don't get rid of them yet! I need some parts. I don't wanna hijack your thread, I'll prolly start a new one in a week or two. I got a small list of parts I need to acquire. Lol

[shpielers]

When I finally get around to it, they'll be getting a post all to themselves.

[katanarider]

Never mind, I made a boo boo.
I was just going to say the Bandit speedo drive swaps but I remembered you changed bearings to 17mm.
My mistake, I'm just learning all of this.