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Gas resistant Clear coat

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  • Gas resistant Clear coat

    I did an experiment on an extra body piece I had lying around. I sprayed it with rattle can acrylic laquer, then used high temp engine enamel clear coat on it. I did this sometime last fall and just today I buffed up the paint on it, polished and doused it in gas. I let it set for 10 minutes with gas completely pooling on it and it showed NO signs of wrinkling. This clear coat also is thicker and to my naked eye looks as shiny and good as the bc/cc that is on my bike. I need to repair a chip on my tank and will be using this clear coat. I'm not sure if it was been gas resistant right away or if the 6 month cure is what did it.

    Here is polished before the gas..........






    Here is after the gas, a little less shine but still a good finish...



    Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

  • #2
    my guess would be that since the clear was so thick u just cant see how much it ate off.

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    • #3
      I don't think so, I only sprayed 2 coats, and I saw no evidence in the gas that showed any clear. That being said, even if it did slightly eat the finish after 10 minutes, you would have your gas tank wiped off by then. Try using a regular clear out of a can and watch how it wrinkles right away.
      Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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      • #4
        hmmm I will have to experiment with it, because i may be painting my tank soon, and a gas resistant finish would be cluuutch.

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        • #5
          I would tend to believe the polish you did before hand assisted in resisting the fuel. I'm not one for rattle can clear, but SEM makes a good rattle clear, and DuPont even has Chromaclear in rattlecans now too. I would think those two would hold up rather well, although I've never tried it....hmm something to do tomorrow maybe....


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          Originally posted by EmpiGTV
          You know why you shouldn't hold in your farts? Because they'll travel up your spine and into your brain. That's where shitty ideas come from.

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          • #6
            That is the only reason I don't like rattle cans, being eaten by raw fuel.
            Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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            • #8
              I actually found some stuff in a can that's honest 2 part clear. http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97942
              94 600 With a GSX-R 1100 engine. Stretched, lowered. Air shifter, Nitrous, Who knows what next...

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              • #9
                There are basic kinds of coating. Thermo-set (non-reversible) and thermo-plastic (reversible) If the coating does not have and activator\hardner, it is a thermo-plastic which means that heat or solvent can reflow the coating no matter how long they sit. So MOST rattle cans are thermo-plastic. There are a few exceptions though. Like some else said, there are some cans out there that have blatters in them. One blatter will hold the product and the other will hold the activator. When you shake it, the blatters will break and the components will mix. The down side is that the product will have a pot life. (once the components are mixed there is a useable window) The other exception is UV curing coatings. I am glad that you had good success with your cover but that coating will not be as resistant as a coating with an activator in it.

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