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No Spark (prelim checks)

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  • #16
    At rest it's roughly 12, cranking it drops to about 8-9 volts

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
      At rest it's roughly 12, cranking it drops to about 8-9 volts
      you need a new battery and that might just fix everything

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
        At rest it's roughly 12, cranking it drops to about 8-9 volts
        Time to replace that battery. It will never start your katana.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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        • #19
          well i may just get warranty on it. It's not even a year old. Thanks for the help!

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          • #20
            Welcome! That is most definitely the cause of your issues, and the relay mod wouldn't have helped as the battery is shot.

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            • #21
              NO warranty on the battery. New one is on order. I'm thinking I'm gonna hook up the brand new battery I bought for my Jeep. I'll finish up the rest of my diagnostics, and go from there. Thanks to all who helped!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
                NO warranty on the battery. New one is on order. I'm thinking I'm gonna hook up the brand new battery I bought for my Jeep. I'll finish up the rest of my diagnostics, and go from there. Thanks to all who helped!
                No, don't do that as you will either be using jumper cables or who knows what to connect it. Wait for the proper battery.

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                • #23
                  If you're going to use the battery for your jeep do it with the battery out of the jeep out atleast with the jeep off, and only do it like 1-2 times just to check the spark and maybe to see if she'll start

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
                    No, don't do that as you will either be using jumper cables or who knows what to connect it. Wait for the proper battery.
                    It's just to test to see if there is spark, and further diag where I need power. I have fashioned a few sets of battery cables, of various sizes, when I was a mechanic, to use for this purpose. I have an old set from an old Toyota tercel that is slightly larger( and I mean only slightly) that the Kats. My goal isn't to start the bike with this battery, just to assist with diagnostics.

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                    • #25
                      .

                      Originally posted by Rootzee View Post
                      It's just to test to see if there is spark, and further diag where I need power. I have fashioned a few sets of battery cables, of various sizes, when I was a mechanic, to use for this purpose. I have an old set from an old Toyota tercel that is slightly larger( and I mean only slightly) that the Kats. My goal isn't to start the bike with this battery, just to assist with diagnostics.
                      Last edited by 05RedKat600; 03-28-2012, 09:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                      • #26
                        It still amazes me that people think the physical size of a 12 volt battery makes even the slightest difference to an engine.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by ATOMonkey View Post
                          It still amazes me that people think the physical size of a 12 volt battery makes even the slightest difference to an engine.
                          It's not the physical size, it's the amperage it packs. There is much more amperage available in a car battery than a motorcycle battery. This is what leads to cooked wires, regulators, charging systems, and starters. Especially when you add in wires to connect it to the system. But hey, what do I know? It's not like I work with DC voltage for a living or anything.

                          Also, by adding wire to the battery leads (lengthening them), you are introducing more voltage loss over the small wires. The system will pull more amperage as a result, and you run the risk of cooking wires. Due to this, and lower voltage, the coil test will probably not be accurate. This is well documented here in posts where people have bad batteries and have tried the very same thing with crappy results. Seriously, just wait for the new MC battery. Do it right.
                          Last edited by 05RedKat600; 03-28-2012, 10:41 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
                            It's not the physical size, it's the amperage it packs. There is much more amperage available in a car battery than a motorcycle battery. This is what leads to cooked wires, regulators, charging systems, and starters. Especially when you add in wires to connect it to the system. But hey, what do I know? It's not like I work with DC voltage for a living or anything.

                            Also, by adding wire to the battery leads (lengthening them), you are introducing more voltage loss over the small wires. The system will pull more amperage as a result, and you run the risk of cooking wires. Due to this, and lower voltage, the coil test will probably not be accurate. This is well documented here in posts where people have bad batteries and have tried the very same thing with crappy results. Seriously, just wait for the new MC battery. Do it right.
                            V = IR

                            Now, tell me how increasing R leads to higher I with a constant V.

                            Any burned up anything is the result of something failing to ground (or a reduction in Resistance or Impedance), which is what was draining the battery. This only made it look like a bad battery, because no one took the time to see if that was actually the problem.

                            So yes, in that case, I would not recommend hooking up any kind of battery, as 300 CCA will cause just as much of a fire as 750 CCA.

                            Why? Resistance goes to basically zero, I goes up, and VI = P. Too much P and you get fire.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by ATOMonkey View Post
                              V = IR

                              Now, tell me how increasing R leads to higher I with a constant V.

                              Any burned up anything is the result of something failing to ground (or a reduction in Resistance or Impedance), which is what was draining the battery. This only made it look like a bad battery, because no one took the time to see if that was actually the problem.

                              So yes, in that case, I would not recommend hooking up any kind of battery, as 300 CCA will cause just as much of a fire as 750 CCA.

                              Why? Resistance goes to basically zero, I goes up, and VI = P. Too much P and you get fire.

                              It is hard to argue with George Ohm, but I have also ran into Mr. Murphy and his law as well. I=v/r always works on paper. I have found trusting in people with real accredited experience. Usually works in the garage

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                              • #30
                                Still nothing as of yet to update on...but I am chipping away when I can. Works been extremely busy!

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