Cheapest Chain and Sprocket setup?

[Genkenx2]

Hey,

I know there's been a few Chain and Sprocket posts pop up in the last couple of days, but unfortunately none of them really adressed the issue I need- cheeap.

I'm looking for advice on where I can find the cheapest replacement chain and sprockets for my 89 600. Now.. I mean the cheapest you guys would recommend that I use.

I found this, do you guys think this is any good or not? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...spagenameZWDVW

Also sprockets too.. which I'm having less luck finding.

Thanks!

[Black_peter]

http://www.sumofallparts.net/product_detail.aspx?item_guid=cfbf73b7-a737-46bc-a811-0a1e2ed4ef6a

Quality chain (not no-name)
Quality sprockets..

[Genkenx2]

Looks good,

but am I sure I want to do the 520 conversion? Is that going to affect my bike any?

[Black_peter]

On a 600 not an issue.
It's just a little thinner. So lighter chain, lighter sprockets.. If you had a hot rod bike you might want to stick with 530..

[DonShannon]

The cheap chain and sprocket set that SpedPartsGuy sells is a KMC brand. Rock bottom of the food chain. I bought one $100. He ships fast, packs well, and really... that's not a bad price for chain and sprockets both. Plus, it fit ;p
I have no intention of running my bike hard, and ANYTHING was better than what I pulled off my bike

[The CyberPoet]

IMHO: stick with 530.

If you want dirt-cheap, the cheapest I've found is JC Whitney: all steel sprockets, 530 solid-roller** chain, the combo will set you back about $65 or so last time I looked into it.
Part Number - Item:
ZX024164Y 530 solid-roller** chain, 126 link (cut it down) $16.99
or
ZX011288R 530 Heavy duty chain, 126 link (cut it down) $23.99
ZX011293R 530 Master-link for either chain above. Buy two, keep one under the seat. $1.49
ZX066024Y 88-97 Kat 600 rear sprocket, C45 Carbon Steel, #530, 46 tooth. $32.99
ZX065904B 88-97 Kat 600 front sprocket, 14 tooth, chrome-moly alloy. $12.99

PS - Do not buy KMC brand. They do NOT manufacture any chains designed for bikes above 500cc's or above 50HP.

NOTE**: The 530 solid-roller chain listed above is not an O-ring chain and will require more maintenance and more lubrication to stay working correctly. No clue whether their "heavy duty" chain is o-ring or not.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Yeah , the roller chains need to be OILED alot . I stuck one on the other Katana because it was cheap , and I wanted to see how well it'd work . But then I yanked the engine like 2 weeks later . :Lol:

[drs]

Sorry for going off on a tangent here but I need a new chain/sprocket for a 98 Kat 600. Price is an issue but I don't want to go cheap. I have seen where others have talked about Vortex, DID, RK but in the same post mention that these setups require more maintanance. I am not very good with keeping up with my maintanance so I would want something forgiving. I have seen where you have posted on cheap chains ($65) and good inexpensive chain kits from RK ($170). I have found a site where I can get a stock chain and the two sprokets for $200. Is this the best way to go? Should I buy the stock oem sprokets (steel) for $80 and buy a DID chain?

Any advice would be greatly apprecated.

[brooder]

Bikebandit.com has the vortex/rk kit for about $165. $6 for shipping. Cheaping out on a chain/sprocket set just seems like a bad idea to me. Last thing I'd want is a cheap chain breaking when I'm doing 65 in the interstate and either taking off my foot or wrapping itself in the wheel and launching me down the road.

I am not very good with keeping up with my maintanance so I would want something forgiving.

Don't be bad with the chain. See reasons mention above. If you're that worried. Get a chain oiler. Loobman makes one that is only $36 shipped.

[drs]

Thanks for the tip about the chain oiler. I will definately look into that. I looked up the Vortex you mentioned and noted that it was aluminum. Would it be better to go with the stock sproket set made of steel?

[drs]

How do people feel about DID chains and Sunstar sprokets?

http://cycletrader.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/mp/product~pf_id~5298713~dept_id~2167296.asp

--
Combination of D.I.D.'s X-Ring ZVM gold-on-gold chain & Sunstar's steel sprocket.

D.I.D.'s ZVM chains are original equipment on today’s top high-performance makes/models. ZVM chains greatly increase the sealing/lubricating performance, & provide 1.5 to 2 times longer wear resistance with half the power loss, when compared to normal O-ring chains. Highest tensile strength of any D.I.D. 530 chain. Designed for up to 1300cc machines.

Sunstar's "Boomerang" design sprocket is 20% lighter. Shock absorbing "Boomerang" design pattern provides better wear resistance. Exclusive high carbon steel & heat treatment process with black zinc-plated finish to prevent rust & corrosion. Powerdrive case-hardened chromoly steel drive sprocket.

[The CyberPoet]

Nothing wrong with DID & Sunstar products -- both have good names in the industry. But the Vortex/RK combo does come with a 20k mile warrantee.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[AzCyco]

I am not very good with keeping up with my maintanance so I would want something forgiving.

Any advice would be greatly apprecated.

My advise.. (take it as you will..)

Something you 'should' get good at.. Unless you want to break down, and buy tons of parts during the course of ownership, get good at maintenance.. period.. Prevenative maint. is a key to owning a bike. Worse case scenario, you toss a chain @ 65+mph, like brooder mentioned, you could loose a limb, toe, or just go down bro.. I tossed a chain hauling ass in the desert, on my dirtbike. If it werent for my MX boots, I'd be called stumpy.. Chain didn't come off due to lack of preperation, I hit a large rock, tried to wheelie over it but the rear sprocket took the hit and tossed the chain...

If you don't already have the manual, get one. its FREE to d/l from KR.com. Basic maintenance starts on pg 16 - pg 40..
Hate to sound 'preachy' but it's someting you should get used to doing, or take her to the stealership every 2K-2.5K miles for oil and checkups, if you have that type of $$ to blow.. (..and if ya do, please buy me a new leather suit )

-=Peace

[drs]

Poor Choice of Words

I guess I phrased my original post poorly. I keep up with the maintanance after I have learned how to recognize when items need to be attended to. I have the manuals for the bike and do perform my own maintanance but I am not sure how to recognize when certain items need attention.

For example:
The the state of chain is an area were I don't know what I don't know. If it is rusty I know I have a problem. But I am not sure when I need to oil the chain by looking at it (rather than using the Odometer) or when it should be taken off and cleaned.

The tires I didn't know should be changed every few years even if they have meat on them due to the loss of 'stickiness'. I know this may be common sense but I had never heard of this before reading a few hundred posts this weekend.

And other stuff I just get contradictory information on. I took my bike in to see about having them install the sprokets and chain and asked them about replacing the fuel hose (manual says to change every 4 years). They looked at my like I was from Mars. The shop told me they have never had to replace the hose in 38 year and that it was unecessary. For$6 in parts I am going to do it - but it highlights my point.

Actually while I have an audience - if I replace the fuel hose do I use the old clamps or do I buy brand new ($0.99) clamps? How about for the vent hose?

Thank you for all of your advice - keep it coming.

[brooder]

Don't have to take the chain off to clean it. There are plenty of ways to clean it while on the bike. There's the moose chain scrubber, or just use a nylon brush and Sludge Away or kerosene. Oil it every time you put gas in (if you're not using a chain oiler which is my next purchase).