Rusty Pipes...

[BarMatt80]

Well as i continue to clean the kat up for the spring riding season, the rusty exhaust is starting to bother me more and more. So i was looking for a solution. I am looking for something i could do to fix it, i don't want to buy new exhaust or send them off. Any suggestions? And i have no idea what type of exhaust is on it, except it has a yoshi slip on. As for the headers no idea, all i know is that they have melted my lower plastic so bad that i can't cut the burnt part out because it would be cutting into those cooling slots in it.

Thanks for the help guys.

[The CyberPoet]

You have two basic coating options:
1. Ceramic-based powdercoat (aka JetCoating) which will probably run $150 - $200 with sandblasting, application and bake-on, OR
2. High-temp paints (BBQ/chimney paints) or aluminum paints, anywhere from $10 to $40 depending on the type.

In both methods, you need to do one of two things ahead of time for it to work:
(A) Sand-blast or bead-blast all the rust off (literally every speck). Most powercoating places will do this for you for about $40, and the cost of it will be built into the cost of the JetCoating.
OR
(B) Wire-brush off the loose rust, then find a metal converter than will convert the rust into Magnetite permanently. Coat at least twice with the converter.

Basically, unless you get rid of every last bit of rust, nothing will take.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[BarMatt80]

thanks cyber for your endless knowledge. I think i will take it home one weekend and media blast it at my father's shop or even have someone do it here locally, and then go with the hi-temp paint option. If all else fails, i will end up with going with a new exhaust or jet coating.

Does that converter need to be hi-temp as well? I would almost assume...any idea where i can pick it up?

[steves]

http://www.por15.com/

POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from re-occurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated before prolonged exposure to sunlight. POR-15 is cured and strengthened by exposure to moisture and will dry faster under extreme humidity, but moderate to dry atmospheric conditions are most desirable when applying this product, because extreme humidity may cause an immediate surface cure, trapping carbon dioxide gas below the surface. When this happens, bubbling may occur. Extreme humidity at the time of application may also interfere with proper adhesion of the POR-15 coating to metal because it's almost impossible to keep metal dry under such conditions.

[BarMatt80]

thanks steve, my roommate was recommending that. I think that POR-20 would be better suited....for heat reasons.

http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/PRIMERPAINTSCOATINGS/HITEMPERATURE/POR20/tabid/148/Default.aspx

or any of these

http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/PRIMERPAINTSCOATINGS/HITEMPERATURE/tabid/74/Default.aspx

i might give black velvet a try.

[steves]

I've used the POR15 on engines before. It's rated to 600 Deg F, and actually cures better with extra heat and humidity. The POR20 costs a bit more.

I think (but I'm not certain) that all of the POR products are UV sensative and will require a topcoat of heat resistant paint if it will be at all exposed to sunlight.

[Black_peter]

My $5 can of grill paint is still holding strong...

[BarMatt80]

what is the difference between grill or regular hi temp engine paint? Better adhesion?

[The CyberPoet]

A real rust converter doesn't need to be temp rated, because it goes in, does it's job and then excess evaporates/drips off -- the metal itself is transformed and there should be no residues.

If you're dad's in the trade and you can get a ceramic powdercoat at a good price, go that route. It's an once-in-a-lifetime coating and it's done -- no need to ever repaint or otherwise fettle with. It also makes the exhaust pipes run cooler (and the exhaust itself run hotter), which is good for higher-flow (at least marginally -- you may never notice the difference, but it's there).

Before blasting, you may want to grind out the weld seams at the inside of the header pipes. Do a search for the info on KR -- Trinc came up with the idea, and I've done it as well, and we've both posted about it.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[BarMatt80]

thanks cyber, i have seen the part to be ground out before. I will go ahead and do that also. I think they are some kind of after market pipes. I guess there is nothing to do but wait till i go home and do it right. I will check into the jet coating....my father works at a vocational school so he has a media blasting machine he uses for engine parts.

[md86]

Yeah , those don't look like stock pipes . I THINK they look kinda like the V&H's I saw recently , but my mind seems to play tricks on me these days ...