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Originally posted by ChrisRam
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Yeah that would be great. also where did you get you materials at?02' Katana 600
D&D Slip on, 5 Degree Factory Pro advancer, 03' tail fairing, Integrated taillight
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Also when it comes to orbitals there are a few different sanding patterns.Some are designed as finish sanders and some to cut the surface fast.The sanding pads also will make a big difference too.If you are planning on using an orbital I would recomend and air sander .The one we mainly use at the shop is dynabrade with a semi rigid pad.The hard pad is designed for flat surfaces and will flatten out a round surface fast.The softer pad has some give and will work better for curved surfaces.
Hope this helps.
Shane
This is the style of sander I would recomend.
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Hey thanks for jumpin in there Shane. Shanes my boss and he knows his stuff.Comment
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Thanks guys. I don't really have the means right now to use an air sander and I have already sanded my fender doesn't seem too bad. Hopefully I will be able to use a pneumatic sander soon02' Katana 600
D&D Slip on, 5 Degree Factory Pro advancer, 03' tail fairing, Integrated taillight
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Just a thought. Unless you have alot of gouges / scratches that need to be sanded out, using flexible sanding blocks will work just fine, albeit slower. I personally like wetsanding if the paint underneath is okay. May take longer, but for the normal DYI'er it's workable. Now I know the guys posting in this thread are professionals, and their time = money so having the right tools for their work = money.
HTH and good luck.Comment
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Well I just got off the phone with my Brother and I now have a place and the tools. so I will be using a Pneumatic sander and a clean warm place to work.02' Katana 600
D&D Slip on, 5 Degree Factory Pro advancer, 03' tail fairing, Integrated taillight
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The guy at CarQuest down the road from me is an old computer guys so I traded him two sticks of memory for some blue and platinum paint they mixed up in Feburary that was never delevered (of the customer never came in to pick it up). He also gave me the thinner for it.Originally posted by ras View Post
Last week I went down and bought the primer and mixer for it and tomorrow I will be running down to get the clear coat and hardener for that.
The guy at the shop is pretty knowledgable when it comes to this stuff and has walked me through everything that I had a question on so far.
I didn't go pick up everything at once just in case I ran into something I couldn't get past. Why waste money on something that I was not going to be able to finish and needed to take to be professionally done is what I was thinking.
As for my left overs, I have way more than what I need or would need to save in case I went down so I was thinking that if you wanted to shave off some money the pay it forward route might help out some.Comment
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I'm going to be painting my bike as a first timer too. I bought Devilbiss sprayguns, (top coat, primer, and touch up). Surfacing primer, catalyst, etc... I also got a book that pretty much runs you through the process step by step. Plus my roommate graduated from Wyoming Tech (for body) and has worked at a body shop for years. Any questions, or if you want a few pages from the book, let me know. Happy to help a fellow KR.Comment
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02' Katana 600
D&D Slip on, 5 Degree Factory Pro advancer, 03' tail fairing, Integrated taillight
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Book is called "Automotive Paint Handbook". Author is John Pfanstiehl. It breaks it all down. From types of paints, primers, clears, etc.. It talks about plastics, all types. All the prep work, candies, pearls, custom etc... Its pretty comprehensive and easy to understand.Comment
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Well we got everything sanded today. Lemme tell ya that sucked. We were working on 2 bikes at once. got everything done but a few parts. next week we do any necessary body filling and then primer. wish me luck02' Katana 600
D&D Slip on, 5 Degree Factory Pro advancer, 03' tail fairing, Integrated taillight
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Good luck. It all takes time and its definitely not glorious work. But its all worth it in the end.
Post pics when you can. Like to follow progress.
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have some questions: First off is there any special bondo or other filler we should use for the plastic? And second if i buy good rattle can primer will that make much difference or should I stick to regular paint?02' Katana 600
D&D Slip on, 5 Degree Factory Pro advancer, 03' tail fairing, Integrated taillight
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for plastic its best to use a filler that has a little bit of flex to avoid cracking. there is a two part filler in tubes that we use called plasti weld or plastic sugery or something like that.( I'll check tomorrow) A little tougher to sand but we've never had a problem with cracking. As for primer are you using rattle can for your paint as well. A good rule of thumb is to stick with the same brand of primer/paint/clear. If you stick with the same brand all the way through you should be ok b/c they are compatible with each other. If you start mixing stuff and dont know for sure then you may wind up with wrinkling or other chemical reactions.Last edited by Erki; 01-22-2008, 01:56 AM.Comment
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did my own bike at home around 3 months since and took my time. the only thing i will say is have a idea of what you want to do and stick to it. i changed my mind just before i bought the paint but i like the final product. just got to sort the seat cowl out now with a local company as you can not get one in the U.K, dont rush the paint and get all the advice you can from the paint shop for drying times ect,ect.
hope you like the final item when you have done it, pics are of the bike before and after.
have got the rest of the decals fitted now and the clear front indicatorsComment
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