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Go Back   KatRiders.com > Suzuki Katana Forums > Suzuki Katana Talk > Long Term Projects

Long Term Projects This is place to post up your long term projects. Projects that took you a while to get done. Post them here. Examples like kwebbel's build up , B-12 engine swaps, swing arm swaps etc..would go here.

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Old 10-23-2017, 03:41 AM   #31
shpielers
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Changed the needle height on the jet kit down to the 2nd from the bottom, and rode a bit.
Pulls harder 5-7k, and a lot harder down low. But now it pops on decel again. Guess who gets to adjust float heights next weekend.
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1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
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2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Old 11-12-2017, 04:50 PM   #32
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Turns out by next weekend I meant next next weekend...
Played with carbs all day yesterday and today. Never got it to pull right - changed needle height, changed float height several times, no beuno. Kept sounding and acting lean, but could smell unburnt fuel out the exhaust.
Decided to check float heights one last time to make sure I didn't fudge one of them. And then noticed in carb #2...I didn't have the main jet in. I had 2 pilot jets.
Oops.
Popped the bowls off the rest, and sure enough #4 had 2 main jets. Swapped things around, reinstalled, synced, rode....
Honestly not sure how I did that. Must have been when I was cleaning the carbs, but I was super careful about disassembling and storing parts. Each carb got it's own Tupperware containers. Finish taking one apart, put the lid on. And I only ever had 2 apart at a time. 1/2, and 3/4. So how did parts from 4 and 2 get swapped? I mean sure, I want to just say prior owner and call it a day, but it's still entirely likely I just found a new way to F it up....
Oh well. Runs so much better now, pulls hard through the entire rpm range. Harder than I expected honestly. I thought it was running decently before, I was wrong. Major power difference.
Still have a little popping on decel in the 5-7k range, so might try one last needle adjustment.
Current settings: 117 mains, 2nd clip from the bottom, stock 14mm float height, 2.5 turns out on A/F screws. About to (re)try middle clip position. I could likely mess a teeny bit with float height as well, as full throttle from low rpms (2k) hesitates for a fraction of a second, but per proper tuning order needle height first. And honestly, if that's still there with needles at middle clip and no more popping on decel...if it doesn't get worse I'm ok with leaving it. Very minor, barely noticeable, and I very rarely put on FULL throttle that low even when being feisty.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheap Bass Turd View Post
Indeed a windshield is on my winter list.
Let us know how the airflow is after a ride or two.
Yeah, my 750 carbs are a pain too. U ain't alone.

Ride it like ya have a motorcycle,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
I'm liking the windscreen. Not sure how it will do in the rain yet, but it keeps more air off me. I'm 6'2", so I get more wind buffering than most. This wind screen moves the air up a couple inches so it's hitting my head and not my chest/neck. Not any extra force on the head, same as stock screen. It's also tinted dark which I happen to like, so win-win. I'll see if I can dig up a link for it this evening.

Last edited by shpielers; 11-12-2017 at 04:57 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 11-21-2017, 02:39 PM   #33
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Link to windscreen. Cheap, but looks good, fits well, and works well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DU...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Went for my first long ride in the cold (40, hour and a half through the mountains going 70mph) and it helped redirect wind so I was a little warmer.

Also, got to take the Kat out for its first long ride, 500 miles over 2 days. 0 issues.


**6/30/18 - loving the new screen.

Last edited by shpielers; 06-30-2018 at 12:30 PM..
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:27 PM   #34
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Been a bit.

Been commuting on it without any real issues. New tires (Michelin Road 5, the continuation of the PR series. They dropped pilot from the name) and SS brake lines.

Clutch was slipping very very occasionally under full throttle at high RPMs. Was ~once a month. Then all of a sudden 3x in 1 day under normal commuting. Test ride: now it's slipping any time under max throttle at high RPM. Ok, gotta deal with this now, not safe.
Adjust clutch, still slipping. (full adjustment, not just at the lever. Also greased up the worm gear)
Change oil, (no gas in it) still slipping.
Huh. Well, ok...only had 20k miles on it when I bought it. My 600 was still on the original clutch at 130K. Prior owner, how the hell were you riding this thing to burn the clutch that fast??
Order new clutch kit. Ended up going with the Barnett kit. Planning on installing their springs too, even though they are stiffer. From all the old threads Ive read on here, if your clutch pull dramatically increases...try replacing your clutch cable. With a good cable, pull shouldn't be a big deal.

Anyways, life happened, 2 months went by when I could work on it, so was commuting on my SV. Today: free weekend finally!! Drained the (new) oil last night and started soaking the new friction plates. Popped off the cover this morning, pulled the pressure plate (bearing looks fine), pulled the old friction plates and steels...and...the basket is notched. Bad.

@)(* @}>00#$)@>*/ #@?# )($~(@#||)$ @># $)@#*$)#<@#&!)?@#*!@&*^$ %*$&#!!!


Every friction plate at every...channel? groove? is notched the entire way around the basket. So now I need to pull the basket and either file like a madman or replace it. Both of which require pulling the basket. Which requires a tool that I don't have...

I'm about to search basket prices, if they're reasonable, I'm just going to replace it. That's a LOT of filing.
Then I'm going to have to look into where to get the right tool to pull the basket. Hoping local auto parts stores have a rental I can use, that fits. (definitely noticed that not all specialty car tools are small enough for bike applications...)

I'm taking a lot of pictures. I'd like to do a write up when I'm finished, as there isn't one on here. The manual is fine, but the pictures in it are terrible.



Anyone know what the material for the basket is? Feels like aluminum, so that might make filing easier...
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:24 PM   #35
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Clutch hub is grooved worse than the basket. that's a lot of filing...


Ordered a clutch basket holding tool so I can pull off the nut that holds the inner hub on. I could file everything in place, but then there's all sorts of shavings in there...bad idea. Would have to hose down every thing, and pull the oil pan to really make sure its all out. And pulling the oil pan means pulling the exhaust...

Long story short, clutch isn't getting anything else done to it until that tool comes in. On to the calipers!!

Last edited by shpielers; 06-30-2018 at 02:20 PM..
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:56 PM   #36
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You know what? I have an '88 600 parts engine here. I'm not sure of the interchange between this and yours, but let me know if I can help. I remember the basket looking okay. I can post pictures if needed.
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:51 PM   #37
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Already ordered a new one, but thank you! Appreciate the offer. Decided that trying to do that much filing all the way around the damn thing was just going to be waaaay too time consuming.


Since the clutch is on pause until the new part comes in, I rebuild the front calipers. Lots of old solidified brake fluid in there, I'm shocked they worked as well as they did.

Also rebuilt the forks and installed new racetech springs.
Didn't get cartridge emulators though. Had them on my 600, and honestly didn't notice enough of a difference. I had installed proper springs about a year before doing the emulators, so I had a decent before/after comparison.
Currently working on stripping and repainting the forks. Original paint was pretty beat.
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:45 AM   #38
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I too am going through all the brake and clutch hydraulic circuits. I completely disassembled everything. It's amazing how much crud is actually in there. This is why I'm a strong believer in biennial brake fluid flushes.

I'm glad you're taking the time and going over the motorcycle properly. The piece of mind is indeed priceless.
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:55 PM   #39
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Couldn't agree more.
And I'd be doing this with any used bike I got, not just a 20 year old one, so it's money I'd spend either way. The fact that it was a little rough just meant it cost less to buy, so more $ available to do the same work that would have happened either way.
Win-win!
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Old 08-05-2018, 05:08 PM   #40
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Took a bit of time, but:
Rebuilt forks with racetech springs and repainted fork tubes - done
Rebuilt front and rear brake calipers with SS braided lines up front - done
CA emissions system...huh, seems to have wandered off...and some block off plates popped up out of nowhere. Gee that's convenient....
Exhaust gaskets replaced
Clutch inner hub replaced
Clutch basket lightly filed to smooth out
Clutch fibers and steels replaced
Clutch springs replaced
Clutch cable replaced and lubed

And....it ran like poo.

I swapped the wheel spacer that goes through the fork leg around so a caliper was dragging bad. And I adjusted the clutch cable with the engine in gear. Initial test ride - suspension in terriffic shape, brakes dragging like crazy and clutch slipping 10x worse than before I touched it.
Finished my trip around the block, parked it, and found the brake issue pretty quickly. Easy fix, just pull the wheel, and turn the spacer around.
Clutch, wasn't sure what was up. When I pulled in the lever, and tried to roll the bike around, high resistance. Bike in N, rear wheel had high resistance to turning. So clearly I did something wrong. Decided to start with easiest thing first and recheck the clutch line adjustment.
Step one - put bike in N. "Oh #(@)_....did I do that last time?"

Long story short, no, I did not. Clutch grabs and engages hard now. Noticible difference, much crisper bite. Do not notice and difference in effort needed at the lever. Many people that installed barrnett springs have said the effort to pull the bar in was significant. I do not find that to be the case. New clutch cable might have something to do with that, but I'm not convinced. My old cable was well lubed and moves freely/smoothly in the sheath.

TL;DR
Bike fixed, runs as it should, & I did some things wrong to complicate matters along the way.

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