Pre 98 Katana Rear Swap?

[ImpavidusStudios]

Hello,

Yes i know this has been covered a million times however i was looking for a definitive answer as most of the threads i've looked at are people going back and forth. I was reading this post and were getting some ideas:

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=104600

Is the only way to fit a 180 tire is the cut weld method? Is there no swingarms that kind of swap in with minimal fabrication?

Or would a post Kat Swingarm and rim be worth it to just go with a 170 in the rear??

Any help would be great! Trying to get some ideas for the upcoming winter!!

Thanks,
- Josh

[Kreylyn]

Hello,

Yes i know this has been covered a million times however i was looking for a definitive answer as most of the threads i've looked at are people going back and forth. I was reading this post and were getting some ideas:

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=104600

Is the only way to fit a 180 tire is the cut weld method? Is there no swingarms that kind of swap in with minimal fabrication?

Or would a post Kat Swingarm and rim be worth it to just go with a 170 in the rear??

Any help would be great! Trying to get some ideas for the upcoming winter!!

Thanks,
- Josh

170 would be simple, cheaper than any other options, and easy to get parts for.

Nothing about 180+ properly fitted with a 5.5" rim is going to be simple. Is it possible there is a magic swingarm out there... sure. I've not found it yet. It's not just the width of the arm, but the size of the pivot, location of the linkage connection points, size and shape of the linkages that play a huge part as well. Of course, not pivoting out too soon so that it hits the sub frame is a consideration also.

Your welcome to do what I did... a lot of parts purchase, and playing, measuring, and fitting to get to the point of figuring out the process I used. Which is the cut/weld process.

Krey

[ImpavidusStudios]

170 would be simple, cheaper than any other options, and easy to get parts for.

Nothing about 180+ properly fitted with a 5.5" rim is going to be simple. Is it possible there is a magic swingarm out there... sure. I've not found it yet. It's not just the width of the arm, but the size of the pivot, location of the linkage connection points, size and shape of the linkages that play a huge part as well. Of course, not pivoting out too soon so that it hits the sub frame is a consideration also.

Your welcome to do what I did... a lot of parts purchase, and playing, measuring, and fitting to get to the point of figuring out the process I used. Which is the cut/weld process.

Krey

So regarding the 170 swap. If i were to order the post kat rim, and through a 170 tire on it. Would i be able to run it and change nothing? Would i need to shim the rim over for the chain to work? Would i still need to make a custom brake arm?

[Kreylyn]

So regarding the 170 swap. If i were to order the post kat rim, and through a 170 tire on it. Would i be able to run it and change nothing? Would i need to shim the rim over for the chain to work? Would i still need to make a custom brake arm?

The chain alignment is the same for 3-5.5" wheels, so no need to shim or offset for that.

I believe you wold be able to run a 170 in a pre 750 or post kat swingarm. I know the pre 600 (shorter by 1.5" swingarm) won't work safely. Just not enough clearance. I say believe because I've not specifically put one in. I don't have any rims with 170 tires to try out atm.

Note: safe and clearance isn't about will the wheel turn or is actively touching when sitting still, but also how much clearance you have when the tire is spinning at high rpm and expanding.

That said... The brake pivots on the axle, so the length of the brake arm isn't a concern. The reason that's important to know, is you can increase the bend on the brake arm for tire clearance. This will shorten the over all length some, but not enough for any issues at all.

Krey