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Swapped in a 05 gsxr 750 swingarm

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  • Swapped in a 05 gsxr 750 swingarm

    I'm sure you guys don't remember but a year ago I picked up a 93 katana and slowly been swapping in a late model gsxr suspension (and a host of mods). It's been a slow process.. I'm working full time while attending college so I don't have as much free time as I'd like. I'm aiming for spring as my finish date. This is my 3rd design and attempt at the conversion but very pleased with the results. Essentially each time I finished I thought of a better design, better way of doing it. I decided long ago to do it the right way and not to compromise on quality so it's slowed down the process some. There's a few obsticals with this mod:

    1. The swing arm axle tube is huge and hits the engine.
    2. The axle tube in narrower than the katanas.
    3. The arm is wider and hits the subframe.
    4. It uses different size needle bearings (swing arm axle for the gixxer is 3 times the diameter of the katanas).

    It poses other problems but I'll focus on the just the swingarm install stuff. To fix this all I chopped and re-fabbed a new subframe, made offset bushings to solve the needle bearing size issue, axle tube width problem and the tube hitting the engine. This design uses the katanas thrust washer set-up, is one piece billet construction, needle bearings have no chance to move in or outboard and the bushing itself can't rotate or move in or outboard (welded in place). It has proper press fit tolerances but I've learned long ago that components can do funny things when lots of force and vibration is applied. Using the stock thrust washers is important in my opinion, simply using spacers can lead to problems as they wear. I have the bushing modeled in solidworks with blueprints for it if anyone is interested. A few things I've learned is you want to take your inside frame measurement AFTER you have cut and welded the frame. Mine shrunk by .015" after the fact. I have swing arm width set at .006" smaller than the frame. As you torque the swing arm bolt it will squish it in some so you need some clearance. I have my needle bearing/axle bolts sleave stack-up as the larger width, not the axle tube/bushing stack up. Here's a few pics of the mod:

    [/img]

  • #2
    pic 2

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    • #3
      pic3

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      • #4
        pic 4

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        • #5
          pic 5

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          • #6
            pic 6

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            • #7
              I installed the bushings using scribed lines beleave it or not. I milled the little flat you see at the buttom on the bushing when I bored the offset hole so I knew it was on the same axis. I then clamped them to a v block with the flat indicated in and scribed a line along the body. I then set-up the swing arm on a surface plate parellel and scribed a line on center of the axle tube. Matched them up when I pounded them in. Slapped in the swing arm axle and it was parellel to the wheel axle within .002"!!! Yee ha A few other obvious things that eluded me on the swing arm swap to keep in mind: On the subframe mod buy tubing the same wall thickness as the subframe (easier to weld, don't try to save weight like I did), DO NOT HAVE YOUR BROTHER IN LAW WELD YOU FRAME! What should have been a 1 hour job literally turned in 5 days (fixing his junk welds)! If you choose to do this type of swap you need to swap out A COMPLETE SUSPENSION SYSTEM! Front end, wheels, shock, brakes...everything. Pick a bike and use everything off it!! DO NOT mix and match years or brands, it will screw you in the end. In the gixxers there is lots of little difference between the years. If you choose to do late model gix it's going to cost $2,500 to do it. Don't kid yourself and think it will be less, IT WON'T, trust me. There is really is no choice with the late model gix. You need a front end and rear shock off a 05/06 1000. It will be easier and beleave it or not, cheaper to do in the long run.... Hmm, maybe this is abit to much info to post on the swing arm swap post. There's much I can post on the shock, fork mod but I guess I'll leave that for the front end/shock swap post. That will be in about 3 weeks.. If anyone has questions on this type of mod post them up, I've learned alot over the last year and can save you some headaches... Oh the last pic is of all the supsension stuff I'll be fitting (almost done)..

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              • #8
                that's going to be so sweet. Are you going to leave the fairing off to show your handywork or put it back on?
                Wish You Were Here? And Yes That is Aaron Yates In The Background.

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                • #9
                  Well yes and no. I'm using all the fairing work but not the aluminum pieces on the tail. The swing arm will be clearly visable as well as the brake/fork set-up but the machine work will be covered.. or some of it. The bike looks funny with these pieces on them (with no body)!!! The swingarm looks twice as strong as the frame (which it is) and both the front end and arm look like they don't belong (frame looks skimpy and small with them bolted in). I'm machining some adjustable vortex style rear sets next week and the custom clip-on risers will be visable. Hmm.. I guess thats all the machining and weldwork (it's NICE now!) that will be seen...

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                  • #10
                    Why do you think you shouldnt mix and match front and rear suspension parts? There are a few people who have done it.......Waltari's R1 front with a RF900 rear.......and Im getting ready to have my ninja swingarm fit and welded up while running a R1 front end as well.

                    I wanna see the pics of the rolling chassis. Hopefully I can drop my bike off at the shop and have the welding done in a week or so. I need to get the seat for my new subframe so I know where to position it before having all that work done.
                    Uh Oh here we go....

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                    • #11
                      Those bushings are mad Guy2600..
                      Fine work!
                      But I hav to ask.. After all that work might it have been as easy to change the frame pivots to match the swing arm? Just asking.. Not critisizing..

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BlackKatnWV
                        Why do you think you shouldnt mix and match front and rear suspension parts? There are a few people who have done it.......Waltari's R1 front with a RF900 rear.......and Im getting ready to have my ninja swingarm fit and welded up while running a R1 front end as well.

                        I wanna see the pics of the rolling chassis. Hopefully I can drop my bike off at the shop and have the welding done in a week or so. I need to get the seat for my new subframe so I know where to position it before having all that work done.
                        There...edited to be more civil

                        One question, I see you cut the edge on your bushes but I don't see a cooresponding grove on the ends of the pivot tubes. How do you plan on keeping the bushings from rotating and acting like an eccentric adjuster in the pivot tube when riding?

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                        • #13
                          One thing I can't help but wonder.... when you slap in an uber wide swingarm to accomodate an uber wide blingtastic rim.... how do you keep the front sprocket and the rear sprocket inline with one another???

                          Am I missing the simple solution here or has this not been considered?
                          '01 TL1000R

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                          • #14
                            Edit my comment.........

                            now I see what you mean. Unless that spacer he made he is there SUPER TIGHT which would be ok I guess as long as the stock kat spacer spins in the new spacer then the new spacer will spin around moving the swingarm in wierd directions......took me a second to think about what you were saying.

                            As for the swingarm and getting the sprockets to line up.....im sure its been accounted for.
                            Uh Oh here we go....

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                            • #15
                              Hey slick perhaps you should ask what I meant by that statement BEFORE launching into that B.S. I never said it couldn't be done or it wouldn't work and you can drop the "Guess decades of racers and tuners must be wrong" crap. Listen to what your saying, "respring suspension, changing headstock, adjustable yokes".. yada yada. This is what I was talking about. If you get a 05/06 1000 suspension you DON'T NEED TO RESPRING ANYTHING. It comes sprung for katana wieght, research what those spring rates are, it's set-up for racing from the factory. Add up the cost for springs, oil, seals, install tools and related to the price of a older front end and you could have had a radial brake front end with the latest in coatings and valving for the same price. I know cause I TRIED 3 DIFFERENT GSXR FRONT ENDS! If you go with a 05/06 1000 rear shock it's sprung for katana wieght, got mine NEW zero miles for $45. If you reread my posts I'm talking about gsxr suspensions! Do you think it was directed at you? You don't mix & match gsxr year suspensions cause they are all a bit different and it will be twice as much work in the end. I know cause I've tried 3 front ends, 3 swing arm set-ups, 3 different shock & linkage set-ups and 2 different wheel sets. I researched the spring rates, valving, and geometry for all the above and know every little mechanical difference between anything made from 01 forward in the gsxr sense. At this point I'm not going to go into the differences between them, that will be another post.

                              I none the less will stand by this statement "Do not mix and match gsxr suspension years. They are all a bit different and to make them all work together it will be twice as much work and more money. Pick one year and swap the suspension as one system, cheaper, easier and a lot less work " In this sense it will screw you in the end if you don't, known threw hands on experience.

                              As far as your question, what the h*ll are you talking about? The bushing is pressed in and WELDED IN PLACE as stated in the post. Explain how it will rotate? If you look a bit longer at the pics and see how those parts interact you will see why the relief (not edge) is cut. Why would there be a groove machined into the axle tube?




                              Your work so far looks pretty good, but no mixing and matching, thats total BS. Take any components, do the calcs, respring/set them up for your application and if you spend the time dialing them in, they'll work great. Just because you use the complete suspension from a particular year bike does mean it'll work great or as it did on that year bike. Even if you change your headstock or use adjustable yokes to duplicate the donor bikes rake and trail and even if you move your shock mount to get the swingarm angle perfect, you are still dealing with your bike with most likely a longer wheelbase than the donor and more weight. You will still in the end need to get the forks resprung, possible swap out springs on the rear shock and spend time tuning the whole thing. Guess decades of racers and tuners must be wrong

                              One question, I see you cut the edge on your bushes but I don't see a cooresponding grove on the ends of the pivot tubes. How do you plan on keeping the bushings from rotating and acting like an eccentric adjuster in the pivot tube when riding?
                              [/quote]

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