Any one know what in the hell this is...

[blindrat420]

Can anyone tell me what this is? (See pic below)

on one side the numbers 2512 are written and on the top it has
Something written that looks like this 0->-0-<-0 and the word Stanley...

I found it plugged in to my harness on my 1993 Katana 600 it was pluged in where I believe the kick stand switch should be and piggy backed out of that part of the harness theres a blue wire that goes to my neutral sensor....

Whatever it is it was causing alot of issues for me, I was having problems with my battery dying the bike wouldn't run right and a slew of other things so I cut it out rewired that part of things and now it runs great charges and everything but still this thing is driving me nuts, I assume its a relay of some sort if anyone knows let me know.

[yngveny]

Sounds like somone tried to bypass all the safety switches.
Any chance you could get it back to how it should be?

[blindrat420]

Yea thats what I figured, I was having a slew of issues till I decided to untape all the wires and go fishing for problems and thats when I found that thing so after a few min of tinkering i noticed it getting hot when I tried to turn the engine over so I figured what the hell cut it off and do some rewiring now it starts runs and does everything it should....

I think whoever put that there needs shot cause thats just not how electronics work you can't just throw in a relay where a switch should be...

But I was just wondering could this be stock.... Not likely but its nice to know for future reference...

[squiggy]

Relay maybe?

There is a Stanley Electric Company. Maybe at one time they made components for Suzuki.

[NitroGlycerin]

Hmm I should look for one of these on mine. I have to fight with her to turn over, and my battery never seems charged. I'm just not good at wiring things lol.

[blindrat420]

I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams and it was plugged in to a white plug that looked like the female end of a clip together plug so it looked out of place, but I've seen factories do weirder stuff so who knows...

And NitroGlycerin, mine to would have starting issues she wouldn't start with out a jump or push start and my battery wouldn't stay charged plus it seemed like she was killing herself to turn over, now that I ripped that out and did a lil bypass wiring she starts on the first crank every time and my battery is staying charged.... hell the bike sounds completely different now when its running and it has more power...

[NitroGlycerin]

And NitroGlycerin, mine to would have starting issues she wouldn't start with out a jump or push start and my battery wouldn't stay charged plus it seemed like she was killing herself to turn over, now that I ripped that out and did a lil bypass wiring she starts on the first crank every time and my battery is staying charged.... hell the bike sounds completely different now when its running and it has more power...

Not trying to threadjack but that is EXACTLY what mine is doing. I have to jump her every time I [try to] start her. Also my battery never seems charged at all. Even in my 70 degree storage area, with full choke, she will crank all day but never turn over. Then after about 3-5 attempts of trying to start her, she stops cranking like the battery died. I jump her, and she fires right up. I ride for over an hour and a half, let her sit for 20-30 mins, and she doesn't turn over again. Where exactly did you find this piece? I will try to locate it, and if I can find someone decent with wiring, I'll have them rip it out and see if my problems are solved like yours were. Thank you for posting this lol

[blindrat420]

NitroGlycerin,

I found this on the right side of my bike it was plugged in to a white plug with a green wire a blue wire and a blue with black striped wire, The green wire goes to the main Ignition relay and ends at this plug, the blue wire goes to the Neutral Light and piggy backs to the Neutral Position Sensor and the blue with black stripped wire goes to a mess of ground wires, so to fix my problem I cut off the plug, wired the one wire coming from my Neutral Position Sensor (on my 93 it is a Blue wire) straight to the Blue wire on the plug, I then connected the Blue with black stripped wire to the green wire and taped everything up nice and good...

Now I only figure out what was wrong because I took all the tape and wire covers off and traced every wire till I found what was causing my issue, I have good reason to believe that my harness was modified by someone who shouldn't have touched it, but none the less from what I could tell this was causing a ground fault which caused the bike to run shaky and not charge cause from what I can tell it wasn't allowing the ignition relay to click over.... now I'm sure that there is a a chance that you could have a ground fault elsewhere so check to make sure all your connections are good and sturdy.... Also if you find what I found please take it out in the back yard and shoot it cause mine caused me alot of grief and whoever thought that was a good idea is obviously not very smart and forgot to listen in school when on the day they taught relays!!!! lol

If ya need help let me know just ask!!!

[NitroGlycerin]

Lol The next time I can work on my bike I will check all of that. Thank you very much. If I have any issues I'll pm you. And I'll also post to see if it stopped my problems.

[paul.miner]

Looks like a semiconductor, so probably the sidestand/neutral diode?

[KAT TOY]

if it was on my old volvo it might be a voltage stabilizer for my gas/temp. gauge. it looks similar.

[steves]

Looks like a relay for an accessory

[paul.miner]

If it's as solid as it looks, it's probably a diode or transistor. I know the pre Kats have a sidestand/neutral switch diode, and you said it was hooked up to those things...

Typically a 3-pin package like that will house two diodes, which has two anodes (outer pins) which share a cathode (center pin). Diode test with a meter could check this.

If the diode was bad, it might leak current and cause battery problems, but the usual mode of failure in a diode is to short.

[blindrat420]

After doing some checking around I have learned that this is a diode that controls the neutral sensor and the kick stand switch and well yea if it breaks it causes a short.... Why the hell any engineer would think it would be a good idea to add this in to the electronics of anything other then a computer or such is beyond me....
All I'm saying is don't put in a piece of hardware that causes 5 times the issues when it brakes, I mean I understand its purpose is to make sure your kick stand is up when you put it in gear and if its not it kills the engine but this could have been accomplished with a relay and when a relay breaks its alot easier to diagnose, when this thing breaks it makes things work *** backwards so yea I cut mine out and things work great now but I guess you can't expect things to always be easy oh well atleast we have a thread that might give others a clue to the issues this can cause......

[paul.miner]

The reason for using a diode is so that the neutral switch can be used to both activate the sidestand relay AND light up the neutral light on the dash (diagram).

It could be done with a relay, but I think it'd need to be a double-pole relay in order to activate the sidestand relay and neutral light independently.