Tweet
Hi guys. I just purchased my 1988 1100 kat, and am still learning its basic features. I noticed on the center stand, that with the bike in gear, and the clutch pulled in, the rear wheel spins. I thought i noticed a slight drag when stopped but wasn't sure. Are there adjustments in a hydraulic clutch ? I did a search but could only find info on manual clutches.
-
Old Age and Treachery Will Beat Youth and Skill Every Time -
Some drag is normal. Try and stop it gently with your foot. If you can, it's fine. If you can't stop it, then you have adjustment issues.Originally posted by bccap View Post -
I too have an 88 Kat1100 looks just like yours. Also have the same problem. I first noticed it while trying to push the bike around with engine off but in gear. While in gear,eng off,pull in clutch there is some definite drag but shift up into neutral and bike pushes around very easy. Also when starting especially on a cold engine in cold weather if I start the engine in gear with clutch pulled in, I have to have foot on rear brake or the bike lurches forward when I hit starter button. Then after 1/2 second let go of rear brake and bike will stay still. I've just dealt with it as a strange quirk.Originally posted by bccap View PostDo the thing you fear most, and the Death of fear is most certain.Comment
-
Thanx guys. I'm trying to get it ready for a trip to the Barber Museum in the summer. So there is lots to learn and inspect on a new bike.Old Age and Treachery Will Beat Youth and Skill Every TimeComment
-
There isnt really any adjusting to a hydraulic clutch system...just the possibility of air in the line or an adjustable lever if your bike is so equipped.90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieOriginally posted by soulless kaos
Comment
-
If the clutch drags when the oil is cold but doesn't when it's warm then you've got no problem. If you can feel the bike wanting to pull forward while in gear with the engine running then you've either got air in the line, the hydraulics need to be rebuilt or the push rod is bent. Most of the time it's air in the system. These clutches are a booger to bleed.
To bleed a hydraulic clutch the best bet is to use a Mity-Vac. Just plan on flushing the lines completely. By the time you've got fresh fluid all the way through you'll usually have gotten any air in the system out of there.Comment
-
Thanx Bill. I didn't consider that. I do have a miti-vac, so that is what I will do.Old Age and Treachery Will Beat Youth and Skill Every TimeComment
-
Do we have a link to a how-to?Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post1990 GSX1100F- abandoned in 2005, rescued by me in 2011, I'm gonna ride it if it's the last thing I do.
1981 GS750EX- Father in law gave to me, full resto in progress with late model suspension.
1979 GS850G Free shafty
1978 GS550E- The wife bought it for me for father's day (So she could learn to ride on it too)
1977 RM80- My son's resto.... he's 3...
2012 Qigo quad- pink Camo for my little princess.Comment
-
Should be the same as a brake fluid flush.Originally posted by gsxkat1100 View Post90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieOriginally posted by soulless kaosComment
-
How To - Flush a hydraulic system with a Mity-Vac
1. Put some tinfoil under and around the reservoir and put some old towels underneath to catch anything that misses the foil.
2. Use the Mity-Vac to suck most (but not all) of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Try not to uncover the hole in the bottom leading to the piston. Not the end of the world if you do but it will allow air into the system. You're trying to avoid that, right?
3. Use a dozen or so Q-tips to get the grunge out of the bottom of the reservoir.
4. Place a box-end wrench (Should be an 8mm) on the bleeder valve, attach the suction hose from the Mity-Vac, open the bleeder valve and pump the handle on the Mity-Vac until clean fluid starts coming out. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and refill it as needed so you don't suck any air in.
5. Close the bleeder valve, pump the handle on the Mity-Vac a couple more times and remove the hose from the bleeder valve. Remove the wrench and put the rubber cap back on the valve.
(For front brakes, start with the inboard bleeder on the left side of the bike. Progress from there to the outboard one, the inboard one on the right and finally, the outboard one.)
6. Put the cap back on the reservoir and wipe everything off really well.
Or... Read the repair manual. Same info is in there.Comment
Comment