The never ending oil filter debate: filter cutter

[The CyberPoet]

I have finally broken down and ordered an oil-filter-can-cutter tool, because when I did the first oil change on the ZX yesterday, I was a bit unhappy with the design of Kawasaki's oil filter (I really want to examine it more closely -- may decide to mod the ZX to take a Katana oil filter instead or look at aftermarket options). The Katana OEM oil filter appears to be a much better design than the Kawasaki one...

The flip side to that is that if anyone wants a can cut open for me to examine and evaluate (& post) the insides for a Kat (or other brand bike), I will be happy to do it for you -- with one stipulation: if you mail me an oil filter to cut open, it has to be unused (I don't want people mailing me post-use oil-soaked filters; if you're here in person, I'll cut open used ones, but you get the fun of opening the pleating, etc.).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Tmod]

I did that on some automotive filters, You get some interesting results when you actually cut them open and see what components the manufacturer used and the quality and quantity of the media itself.

Looking forward to your results.

Tmod

[squiggy]

I don't want people mailing me post-use oil-soaked filters

awwww...your no fun.

[rexazz2]

I opened one last summer from my Kat to see if the magnet was picking any thing
After slicing my hand open also, I was pleased to find nothing where the magnet was

[DRUNK_UNCLE]

I use a scott's billet re usable oil filter. Stainless steel mesh filter and come off easy and looks cool.

[The CyberPoet]

I use a scott's billet re usable oil filter. Stainless steel mesh filter and come off easy and looks cool.

Malloc ran one of those for about 40k miles, and his compression suffered as a result, even with timely and good oil... Personally, I won't ever run one, for the most part because I can literally see daylight through it (meaning it won't filter fine clay dust or fine sand dust, the primary reason for running an oil filter IMHO).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[BarMatt80]

a simple brand change wouldn't have fixed the problem of kawi crappy oil filter design?

such as wix or other brand? or was the kat filter just as simple as spinning it on.

I changed my honda filter this past week, other than the outrageous cost of the filter and the oil, everything looks in good order and good design.

I guess $43 for 4 quarts of oil and a filter isn't bad when honda says it will last 8k miles. Even though i change it every 4k.

[The CyberPoet]

a simple brand change wouldn't have fixed the problem of kawi crappy oil filter design?

It might have -- but without examining it myself, how could I come to the conclusion that I was moving to a "better" solution instead of a "lesser" solution?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[GSXfs600]

Malloc ran one of those for about 40k miles, and his compression suffered as a result, even with timely and good oil... Personally, I won't ever run one, for the most part because I can literally see daylight through it (meaning it won't filter fine clay dust or fine sand dust, the primary reason for running an oil filter IMHO).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

Yep! those are for racing only. There useful in inspecting for engine damage after a race, but never intended for 3000+ mi oil changes.

Years ago I tried a SystemOne SS filter on my Toyota truck and it did not filter well at all! Had black oil within 1000 miles, with a PureOne paper filter it took about 4000 mi. to get dark.

It might have -- but without examining it myself, how could I come to the conclusion that I was moving to a "better" solution instead of a "lesser" solution?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

Also! Your Kaw may have a standard thread? If so, you've got dozens of good filters to pick from.

[coggs]

a simple brand change wouldn't have fixed the problem of kawi crappy oil filter design?

such as wix or other brand? or was the kat filter just as simple as spinning it on.

I changed my honda filter this past week, other than the outrageous cost of the filter and the oil, everything looks in good order and good design.

I guess $43 for 4 quarts of oil and a filter isn't bad when honda says it will last 8k miles. Even though i change it every 4k.

So if you're going to change it at 4k why not use ordinary inexpensive oil, or is it a special grade for Hondas?

[BarMatt80]

So if you're going to change it at 4k why not use ordinary inexpensive oil, or is it a special grade for Hondas?

I always use on my bikes the oem filter.

On the kat, I used valvoline 10w-40 4 stroke motorcycle oil, but if my oil change came late spring and was going to last the hot days of summer, i went to the 20w-50 (i think).

Now i bought my honda, I had a service warranty with the dealership i bought it at, and still do for 2 more years. I just have to pay for material, they install, change or whatever, plus 15% discount. I now have 8k miles on the bike, so they changed the oil at 600 miles and at 4k (at my request) and it was only a bit over $30.

But now I moved about 1.5 hours from where i bought it, and figured it is oil and a filter, i'll do it myself. I always do all my maintenance only go to dealers for tires. But when I could go to the shop, get preferential treatment, 15 minutes to the shop, wait about 1 hour tops for a service interval check and then head out, it just made sense to make them deal with the mess.

But long story short, the honda hp4 10w-40 is 5.99 a quart locally, and the valvoline at autozone or advance is tipping 4.50 to 5 bucks a quart, so just made sense to go with the better oil. Oil is just the same as other motorcycle oil, just has honda's propaganda on the jug. But i figure honda made it for their bike, says it will last 8k so 4k should be absolutely no problem

as for going with some rotella or something like that, just don't want to go with an oil that isn't "motorcycle" oil. Plus don't need something to go south with the engine and honda and dealer blame that as the point of failure.

Stock honda filter $13 locally, which i hear cheapests usually is $11.

My major beef is dealing with the local dealer, they cut me a key for $10 pain metal key(not flat rate, hourly to cut it) and then quoted me $500 plus $100 install for a new set of z6's.

sorry for the thread jack cyber.

[H-2 CHARLIE]

oil

hey CP have you yet opened a reg. puralator oil filter yet ???not pure one They have them here for $6.99 half the cost of OEM. I saw the test some where before and suzuki was top notch

[IndyGunner]

awwww...your no fun.

i thought the same thing.

[coggs]

I always use on my bikes the oem filter.

On the kat, I used valvoline 10w-40 4 stroke motorcycle oil, but if my oil change came late spring and was going to last the hot days of summer, i went to the 20w-50 (i think).

Now i bought my honda, I had a service warranty with the dealership i bought it at, and still do for 2 more years. I just have to pay for material, they install, change or whatever, plus 15% discount. I now have 8k miles on the bike, so they changed the oil at 600 miles and at 4k (at my request) and it was only a bit over $30.

But now I moved about 1.5 hours from where i bought it, and figured it is oil and a filter, i'll do it myself. I always do all my maintenance only go to dealers for tires. But when I could go to the shop, get preferential treatment, 15 minutes to the shop, wait about 1 hour tops for a service interval check and then head out, it just made sense to make them deal with the mess.

But long story short, the honda hp4 10w-40 is 5.99 a quart locally, and the valvoline at autozone or advance is tipping 4.50 to 5 bucks a quart, so just made sense to go with the better oil. Oil is just the same as other motorcycle oil, just has honda's propaganda on the jug. But i figure honda made it for their bike, says it will last 8k so 4k should be absolutely no problem

as for going with some rotella or something like that, just don't want to go with an oil that isn't "motorcycle" oil. Plus don't need something to go south with the engine and honda and dealer blame that as the point of failure.

Stock honda filter $13 locally, which i hear cheapests usually is $11.

My major beef is dealing with the local dealer, they cut me a key for $10 pain metal key(not flat rate, hourly to cut it) and then quoted me $500 plus $100 install for a new set of z6's.

sorry for the thread jack cyber.

And thats why they're called Stealerships on here Gotta keep that warranty going!! - sorry cyber back to you

[scottynoface]

I don't have any problems with my oil filter Comes right off, new one goes right on, what's the specific issue with it again?