Katana of the Month - October 2007  SEQX34

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How to Q&A An area to ask questions and share answers on specific projects. New how to's should be started here. No offtopic posts!

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Old 06-02-2018, 02:46 PM   #1
Skid Mark
Join Date: May 2017
Location: NO
Posts: 6

Default Katana 1100F how to replace front springs with fork in place?

Hi all,
Anyone who know if it is possible to get the front springs out on
top after removing the top adjuster/topcap with the front forklegs still in place?
I can lift the the topcap partially but it then stops and the tube below
is just stuck to the top cap.
On the classic suzukis this was easy and it was just to lift the spring straight up
after loosening the topcap so I ask,
Anyone who has removed/replaced the springs on the Katana 1100f this way?

In advance,
Thank you very much

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Old 06-04-2018, 06:47 AM   #2
Kat Legend
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 4,023


It should work fine, was able to do it on mine.cap should just screw out.
1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250

2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:37 PM   #3
Skid Mark
Join Date: May 2017
Location: NO
Posts: 6


Yes,I have already figured that out after a little looking at the parts and
how it was connected together.

Actually,on the first modelyear 88 and maybe some 89 that not have the
adjuster(very similar to the early gsxr`s adjusters)it may be exactly as you say.

But on the later versions which have adjustments marks on the treaded
adjuster mentioned above that goes trough the top cap of the fork it is a lttle different,to disassemble and remove the topcap you have to tread the adjuster
down trough the cap,it will bottom out in the upper position so therefore it has
to be turned downwise to get more close to dismantle the spring.
when you have removed the caps there is are a "C" shaped lockwasher and another same outside washer at the diameter of
the inside of forkleg on top of a distance tube below with another flat washer
between that tube and top of the spring and to remove these parts, it is
most easy in my opinion to loose both top caps first and then when the bike
is on the centerstand just push the bike down little in the front.
Both sides springs and all the parts will then rise up from the tubes and
it will be easy to remove the "C" shaped lockwasher that secure the springs
on the center rods.

If changing to new stiffer performance springs,some are both longer and
have more wounds and are also maybe thicker in material.
This makes it longer that the standard spring and it may happen that
you have to skip the extensiontube for each leg to be able to get
the new spring secured in place by remounting the washer and then the "C"
lockwasher on top of the spring .

Something that will easly be seen after comparing the total lenght of the
old spring with the lenght of the spacertube included as the new spring will
most probably be just a little longer without the extension as the old spring
and the spacer together.

One thing to remember, the first models without adjusters have long
extension tubes when the later have short tubes.
Upgradesprings often is designed with ONE lenght so it can be
used on any of the modelyears by just skipping the tube either it is
the old or the new design with the adjuster.
Then if one have noted the order of which of the other parts was dismantled
it should be easy to assemble the rest in reverse order.
Have been there,done it.
Can be used as a write up if some want to.

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