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Spraymax 2k clear VS. Krylon Fusion

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  • Spraymax 2k clear VS. Krylon Fusion

    Anyone tried this combination yet?
    Called a body shop to clear the gas tank only,
    got a quote of anywhere between $150 - $250.

    WTF ...................
    I said the tank only, not the entire bike plus a car ....

    Would like some feedback on this combo before I end up ruining all of my hard work because of incompatibility.

    Existing Base coat + Krylon fusion + Krylon Triple Thick Clear Glaze is where I am at now.

    TIA ~

    All you want to know is right here ~

  • #2
    WTF is right! I started a touch up project that turned into a full blown re-paint job because I couldn't get it to blend. I used Nason base coat/clear coat and that was 1 quart of each. $141. Plus I needed a new touch up gun which I found for $25 at Menards and it did an AWESOME job.
    Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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    • #3
      Was this Spraymax 2k clear over Krylon Fusion?

      All you want to know is right here ~

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      • #4
        No. This was actual automotive paint. I put on 3 medium coats of clear though. This is the stuff you have to mix, activate, reduce etc. Looks really good though.
        Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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        • #5
          It is my understanding that you can put enamel or polyurethane on top of a cured laquer. Laquer on top of laquer ONLY! Nothing on top of polyurethane except polyurethane.

          I would spray a milk jug or piece of scrap plastic just to test the compatibility. Extra time I know but it is better than ruining all your work.
          sigpic2000 Dupli-Color Metal Specks Red GSX750f

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          • #6
            Originally posted by grslightn View Post
            I would spray a milk jug or piece of scrap plastic just to test the compatibility. Extra time I know but it is better than ruining all your work.
            +1 million
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by grslightn View Post
              It is my understanding that you can put enamel or polyurethane on top of a cured laquer. Laquer on top of laquer ONLY! Nothing on top of polyurethane except polyurethane.

              I would spray a milk jug or piece of scrap plastic just to test the compatibility. Extra time I know but it is better than ruining all your work.

              I myself remember reading about the compatibility of the types of paint. I thought enamel could go over laquer. Iinitially retouched my tank with acrylic laquer, over the existing ppg automotive paint, then cleared it with acrylic enamel. It looked good but I didn't clear the entire tank which I should have, and it didn't blend evenly. (It might have lifted later had I left it). I said fuk it and sanded and primed the tank again and went with the Nason BC/CC which I knew would be a good durable finish that was guessed and cobbled together. Thats my suggestion, don't cobble it.
              Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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              • #8
                Originally posted by grslightn View Post
                It is my understanding that you can put enamel or polyurethane on top of a cured laquer. Laquer on top of laquer ONLY! Nothing on top of polyurethane except polyurethane.

                I would spray a milk jug or piece of scrap plastic just to test the compatibility. Extra time I know but it is better than ruining all your work.
                Extra time is no problem .....
                Will try your suggestion with a scrap lower belly fairing, seeing how no one has experienced this combination yet ~
                Last edited by jbo197; 07-27-2009, 03:38 PM.

                All you want to know is right here ~

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                • #9
                  I just used the 2k clear in the rattle can on my bike last week and it turned out AWSOME!! If I really wanted to be picky, I could wetsand it, but really, it's good enough to not touch. I HIGHLY recomend it!!

                  If you wanna see the pics of the paint and clear..... http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=100101&page=4
                  94 600 With a GSX-R 1100 engine. Stretched, lowered. Air shifter, Nitrous, Who knows what next...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by RoadRacer61 View Post
                    I just used the 2k clear in the rattle can on my bike last week and it turned out AWSOME!! If I really wanted to be picky, I could wetsand it, but really, it's good enough to not touch. I HIGHLY recomend it!!

                    If you wanna see the pics of the paint and clear..... http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=100101&page=4

                    Nice work ....
                    But you used Dupont paint ~
                    My question is the Spraymax 2K Clear over Krylon Fusion paint.

                    All you want to know is right here ~

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                    • #11
                      Honestly, I don't think there would be a problem with it. On one of the sites I searched while looking at clears, there were several people that said they had used it on several different types of paint and it did perfectly. One guy even said he had three different types of paint on his tank, and it went across all three with no problems at all. As long as the Krylon has had time to dry, it should be fine. i wouldn't sweat it.
                      94 600 With a GSX-R 1100 engine. Stretched, lowered. Air shifter, Nitrous, Who knows what next...

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                      • #12
                        I hope you are right ....

                        All you want to know is right here ~

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                        • #13
                          +1 for Spraymax

                          I used spraymax clear to paint a bicycle frame and it came out excellent. It sprays (and smells) like dupont 2k clear and the finish is truly professional quality. For a basecoat I used Tamiya acrylic lacquer paint from a hobby shop and I had no issues with fish eyes or orange peel.

                          My local paintshop wanted $25 a can for 12oz base lacquer cans and I needed two colors, so I decided to try the tamiya paint. The cans are 3.5oz and cost $6, so they're a little cheaper per ounce than the paintshop stuff and you can mix and match.

                          I'm under the impression that you can use any acrylic laquer as a basecoat for spray, which potentially gives you some other cheap options:

                          -Rustoleum laqcuer from Walmart/lowes etc. (only comes in red, black and white)

                          -Duplicolor lacquer from auto parts stores

                          This is how I painted the bike. I am not an auto body professional, but I did take an autobody paint course like 10 years ago.....

                          1. Degrease the tank (or whatever you happen to be painting) really, really well with detergent/dish soap/whatever and then rinse with a ton of water. After you're done rinsing, rinse some more.

                          2. Degrease again with something hot like acetone. Wipe it on with one rag and wipe it off with a clean dry rag.

                          3. Spray the tank with a lacquer primer.

                          4. Sand with very fine sandpaper or fine scotchbrite pad (600, 1000, whatever). If the finish is not totally smooth at this point you'll need to prime and sand some more. If you have a very rough surface you'll need a high build primer.

                          5. Use a tackrag to remove dust and spray on the basecoat. Spray in thin coats until you have coverage, using the scotchbrite pad and tackrage between coats.

                          7. Very, very lightly sand with a fine scotchbrite (this may not be necessary), degrease w/ alcohol (isopropyl is ok), remove dust w/ tackrag and spray with spraymak 2k clear. Make sure you do this outside (this paint is nasty stuff) when there is no wind. You can wet the ground in the spray area to keep dust down.

                          8. Let the tank cure for a while. The paint is hard after 24 hours, but it does not reach full hardness for several days. You do not want to buff the or wax the finish during this period.

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                          • #14
                            My R1 done with Fusion and some vinyl graphics from flea-bay...

                            I only cleared the tank, and it didn't help when I dripped some gasoline on it... still messed it up some... I figure next time I'll find a clear that will actually protect it...

                            Good news is that all I gotta do is respray it when I need a like-new finish...



                            Take a Spin With The KR Mascot...
                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdjHBFbMAWE

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                            • #15
                              Thanks Guy's ......

                              Here is the update:

                              Krylon fusion
                              Krylon Triple Thick Clear Glaze
                              Spraymax 2K Clearcoat

                              Turned out perfect ~

                              All you want to know is right here ~

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