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will it cause the engine to idle lower than normal when the engine is warmed up?
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If the valve clearance is too tight, it will cause the valves to remain open (rather than sealing) at full opeating temp. This would make starting the bike "hot" very difficult compared to a properly adjusted set of valves.
The easiest way to tell is to recheck them with the engine cold.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet -
i was avoiding having to open it up again...oh well.
one more ? cyberpoet if i may, will not doing a carb sync after a valve adjustment cause idle problems??
see i knew i should've never touched the dern thing..... its just not knowing how the previous owner treated the thing i wanted to check everything out.
Here's the whole problem so i don't have to make a new thread:
It all started when i stupidly adjusted the idle adjustment knob on the carb(after the valve adjustment). Now, it starts up and runs fine but it idles below 1k rpm(anywhere from 500-800rpm). If i try the idle adjustment and bring it up to where it needs to be its okay but, then if i give it a little throttle, then the revs stick(usually around 5-6k rpm). The only way to bring the revs down is to again adjustment the idle knob on the carb, but then when i do that of course it idles well below 1k rpm.
At first i thought maybe the throttle cables were adjusted improperly, but i've tried my best to get them to spec, the way the manual says. I have not opened up the carbs yet, so i don't know the condition. But before i did the valve adjustment, everything was fine.Comment
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Not doing a carb sync after the valves actively needed changes in the clearances can result in a lopping-idle issue (RPM at idle bounces up-n-down 50 or 100 or even more RPM). It rarely will make the RPM's hang on the way down to idle.
There are only a few things that will make it hang like that. They are:
1. Misadjusted or binding throttle cables. My instructions for how to set them (the "click" method) can be found here:
Note that this does not address the issue if the cable is actually binding in the sheath due to debris or excessive wear/fraying -- in that case you'd need replacements, which I have here for you.
2. Carb idle passages too lean due to partial blockage. Usually found in bikes that were parked too long without running; a third of a bottle of techron fuel system cleaner with a fill-up of fuel will usually cure this in a matter of 20-40 miles; if the whole tank doesn't cure it at all (no change in the symptoms at all), then manual tear-down and cleaning is called for.
3. Minor vacuum leak, such as a torn carb sync port vacuum nipple cover, mis-seated velocity stack between the airbox and carbs, or an uncapped airbox drain tube, or a loose airbox drain tube at the airbox end. With the engine running, spraying WD-40 around these areas should cause a change in tone and RPM if it gets close to a leak.
4. And very, very rarely, a leak at the exhaust headers (either end) can also cause the issue, but it's uncommon.
That's pretty much it. On your particular year (and any other 98-06), the idle should be set with the engine at full operating temp, with the RPM's set to 1250 to 1350 RPM (1350-1450 for the California polution-control models). That should still give you a cold idle of 1100 or more, at least during the summer.
Setting the RPM at or below 1k is a good formula for depriving the oiling system of enough pressure to keep everything lubricated ideally at idle.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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well just to update,
i rechecked valve clearances and most of them were too tight. Readjusted them, made sure all vacuum hoses were good, made sure throttle cables weren't binding or anything.
It runs much better now. Now the only thing left is a carb sync. :thumbsup:Comment
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