Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Pod air filters

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Pod air filters

    I just put a full exhaust (it finally worked, those of you who had seen my previous thread) on my 97 and I have K&N pod filters that replace the airbox. Do you think a stage 1 jet ket is enough for the pods, or is that going to be to much air?

  • #2
    Re: Pod air filters

    Originally posted by AkBigN
    I just put a full exhaust (it finally worked, those of you who had seen my previous thread) on my 97 and I have K&N pod filters that replace the airbox. Do you think a stage 1 jet ket is enough for the pods, or is that going to be to much air?
    Too much air will probably be the result (i.e. - too lean). Pods combined with an aftermarket exhaust header calls for a stage 3 kit. The good news is that stage 1 and stage 3 kits are often the same kit, with different settings specified for the differences -- so it shouldn't be a price issue.

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPeot
    Remember The CyberPoet

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm not sure I want to go up to stage 3. What are the pro/cons of going stage 3 over stage 1?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by AkBigN
        I'm not sure I want to go up to stage 3. What are the pro/cons of going stage 3 over stage 1?
        A stage 3 fuels heavier, thus offsets a easier through-put on the intake and exhaust sides (and is why it's matched to pods & an aftermarket end-to-end exhaust). A stage 1 kit is designed to work with the OEM intake and exhaust, and will normally run way too lean if used in conjunction with an aftermarket exhaust header and pods.

        Disadvantages/Advantages:

        Stage 1 - somewhat better power all over than stock, usually some or complete removal of the power output dip around 4200 RPM. Improved low-end torque. Removes places where OEM manufacturer (Suzuki in our case) intentionally designed the fueling to go lean for EPA testing and/or sound control purposes (hot & cold idle, plus somewhere between 3800 and 4600). Purchase of additional equipment not required to use. Designed for the typical rider who wants a more robust machine. If installed in a bone-stock bike, shouldn't require any additional tuning (although tuning is still advisable to get the most out of any kit). Gas mileage decrease by about 3% - 8% compared to bone stock.

        Stage 3 (in conjunction with pods & larger headers): less bottom-end torque, significantly more mid and upper-end power. Engine should be willing to rev up faster even under load than a comparable stage 1 kit. Mandatory changes in the intake and exhaust pathways to provide higher flow rates or you'll end up running way too rich. Usually requires post-installation dyno tuning (or at minimum, post-installation exhaust gas analyzer tuning) unless the manufacturer already has configuration listings for your particular set-up (i.e. - your particular brand/type of intake and exhaust on that particular engine). Designed for riders who do the occasional track day and/or a lot of street racing. Gas mileage decrease by about 15% - 25% compared to bone stock.

        Cheers
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

        Comment


        • #5
          Well that is exactly what I was looking for, thank you.

          Comment

          Working...
          X