[The CyberPoet]

What oil and filter do you use and why?

Oil -
Short answer: Castrol GPS.
Why: Because it has the highest viscosity of any oil I've run when it comes back out at the 3500 mile interval (plus it runs the bike cooler in general in Florida).
Long Answer: CyberPoet's "How to understand and choose motorcycle oils"

Filter -
Short answer: Suzuki OEM (manufactured by Toyo Roki)
Why: because it filters better than any other filter I've found on the market, and is engineered to last three oil changes (although I don't push mine past a single interval unless I'm on a road trip). Plus if there is ever a failure related to it, I will be able to turn around and point directly at Suzuki (who make good on such finger pointing in my experience).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[vahankin]

Thanks for the oil info. I have another question:

I will be pulling the wheels off of my 2000 kat tomorrow and bringing them to Cycle Gear to have my new Diablo Strada's mounted and balanced. I have never pulled my wheels off before. Is there anything unusual I should be aware of and are there any specific torque specs for putting them back on the bike? I am worried about the rear wheel moving and my chain becoming loose.

I have been told there should be about one inch play in the chain while sitting on the bike. Does this sound right?

[The CyberPoet]

...pulling the wheels off of my 2000 kat tomorrow... I have never pulled my wheels off before. Is there anything unusual I should be aware of

Yup. Support the forks so they don't slam the ground. Getting the rear off with the bike on the centerstand is easy, but the front needs to be supported. Some people even do one wheel at a time (get it shod, bring it back, remount) rather than both for this reason -- so they can weigh down the back of the bike with the rear wheel on to keep the forks off the ground.

and are there any specific torque specs for putting them back on the bike? I am worried about the rear wheel moving and my chain becoming loose.

Yes. If you haven't downloaded the factory service manual yet (which has all the procedures and torque specs), do so from this thread:

http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13439

I have been told there should be about one inch play in the chain while sitting on the bike. Does this sound right?

1" - 1.1" with you off the bike, bike on centerstand for a 98+ will give you the most chain life. Tighten it down to less than that and it will stretch faster. Leave it looser than 1.2" and it'll want to jump teeth.

From the 98+ Owner's Manual (Kat on the centerstand):


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[vahankin]

Great information once again.

It is greatly appreciated.

[fordfurious]

i did just one wheel at a time when pulling them off the bike. makes for less chance of shop hazard or accident

[TAFNAP]

Ok after reading and reading I think I understand but I have a couple of questions. I am riding a 01 600 Kat with Dunlops on it now not sure of model.

1. When do you do a tire change? I bought this bike used so do not know how many miles were on the tires before I bought it but put about 1000 on them myself and center of my rear is starting to get low.

2. Should you change both tires even if the front seems still good? I do know you need to change both tires if you are switching types because they should be the same.

2. Metzler Z6 Road Tec Tire are a good all around tire. I mostly commute and can't afford to replace tires all the time is the Metzler Z6 still my best choice?

3. 150/70ZR-17 is the correct stock size I should get for my bike. It is also the best for performance correct. But I can get the 160/60ZR-17 which from what I read will only really get me bling and faster wear which means replacement more often?

Thanks

[The CyberPoet]

1. When do you do a tire change? I bought this bike used so do not know how many miles were on the tires before I bought it but put about 1000 on them myself and center of my rear is starting to get low.

When the tire is 5 years old, when the tread depth for the rain-grooves is under 1.2mm or so (unless you live in a desert), when the tire is discolored (heat damage), when the tire is scalloped, or when the tire is punctured.

2. Should you change both tires even if the front seems still good? I do know you need to change both tires if you are switching types because they should be the same.

I tend to switch both at the same time and sell my used tires on eBay -- the front being typically at 60% life left fetches far more than the rear (which is usually used by someone as a burn-out tire). The fact that I live in a rain-plagued state factors into that decision for me. Many riders, if they are sticking with the same brand/make of tire, will retain the front until it reaches it's replacment point (in part to stretch the financial hit further apart).

2. Metzler Z6 Road Tec Tire are a good all around tire. I mostly commute and can't afford to replace tires all the time is the Metzler Z6 still my best choice?

IMHO: yes. You should get well over 10k miles out of a set commuting.

3. 150/70ZR-17 is the correct stock size I should get for my bike. It is also the best for performance correct. But I can get the 160/60ZR-17 which from what I read will only really get me bling and faster wear which means replacement more often?

Get the 150/70ZR17 rear, 120/70ZR17 front for your type of riding.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[TAFNAP]

I think I am going to look into those tires you suggest and see what I can find for prices.

As for the groove depth how can I measure that with my lack of tools?

I know some shops wont mount and balance tires unless you buy the tires from them but for the shops that do what is a resonable price?

CyberPoet I appreciate the advice.

[The CyberPoet]

I think I am going to look into those tires you suggest and see what I can find for prices.

Try:
AmericanMotoTire.com
DennisKirk.com
RonAyers.com

As for the groove depth how can I measure that with my lack of tools?

Take a penny, turn it upside down and stick it in the groove -- if the tip-top of Lincoln's head isn't covered, it's time to replace IMHO.

I know some shops wont mount and balance tires unless you buy the tires from them but for the shops that do what is a resonable price?

I find the unwillingness to mount outside tires seems to vary by state and how close the next shop is.
Prices depend on whether you bring them the wheel off the bike or still on the bike -- off the bike is usually half the price of on-the-bike.

CycleGear mounts (off-the-bike) for $15 if you buy from them, $30 if you don't. They also now offer a tire-hazard warrantee on ANY brand of tire they sell for an extra 10 or 15% of their tire pricing (IMHO: worthwhile if you commute through areas with new construction or cover lots of miles).

My most expensive local shop (Suzuki Dealer) gets $130 for both on the bike. The cheapest (400 yards down the street) gets $40 for the pair on the bike, $25 off-the-bike.
Obviously prices vary widely and it makes sense to call around.

If the dealer has steel tire stems, ask him to use them (less prone to damage than rubber ones).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[TAFNAP]

Great will do...I will call around and see what I can get for a price.

Thanks again.

[Balthasar]

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the Pilot Powers? (I've heard the Pilot Sports mentioned). Does the Pilot Powers come in the right size for the 01 kat?


Also, a question for CyberPoet: i know that a thinner tire will help the bike turn faster, but will a wider tire help the bike lean farther? I've been afraid to lean the bike too far on the stock tires ('01 750), because i've already run out past the edges of the tire. I'm scared that if i lean any farther that there will be no tire there (chicken strips are way out of the question here).


Can anyone point me in the direction of where they got cheap Pilot POWERS?

[The CyberPoet]

Also, a question for CyberPoet: i know that a thinner tire will help the bike turn faster, but will a wider tire help the bike lean farther? I've been afraid to lean the bike too far on the stock tires ('01 750), because i've already run out past the edges of the tire. I'm scared that if i lean any farther that there will be no tire there (chicken strips are way out of the question here).

No, a wider tire will NOT let a bike lean further NOR will it necessarily grab any better at a lean. That is actually primarily trait of the arc-radius design of the tire (including the size of the sweet-spot at full-lean, and how easy/difficult it is to get there) and a smaller function of the tire tread compound (how sticky it is and what the slide characteristics are like).

The OEM tires the Kat ships with are a single broad arc -- I suspect to discourage shenanigans on a new bike -- this makes for slow turn-in/slow return, and makes it easy to get to the edge of the tire before you wish you were... Plus it tends to keep new rider speeds down through the curves.

Both Pirelli's and Metzeler's current street-sport and sports-touring tires are triple-compound arc designs, with a narrow almost flat-arc center (for high-speed straight-line stability), then another arc curving away from that (for fast/easy turn-in), and finally a third even steeper arc taking over about 2/3rds of the way to the edge (for maximum lean potential before you run out of rubber). Because of the design, the rubber tends to allow a much further lean angle before you get anywhere close to the edge of the tire, and I simply can't go all the way to the edge of the front Z6 on a 98+ Kat no matter how far I lean it over (the rear I can reach, but it's way out there, and there's still over 3/8" of chicken strip on the front at that point). Personally, I'd much rather hit full-lean before I get close to running out of rubber, even if it means squids poking fun at my chicken strips (they shut up when they see me ride).

I have no clue how many arcs the Pilots nor the new Conti's use. Generally, Michelin offers single and double-arc designs, as does Dunlop (most sports-oriented dunlops are double arc, while their sports-touring tires can fall either way). BattleAxes are also double-arc designs.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[vahankin]

Can anyone point me in the direction of where they got cheap Pilot POWERS?

I have heard the powers will wear out A LOT faster than the pilot sport. Plus, I do not think they come in the stock size for 98+ if you were trying to stay stock.

Here is where I purchased my Diablo Stradas and it was the cheapest I could find. Shipping took about 7-9 days with Fedex ground.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/department.aspx?department=647&manufacturer=74&Division=6

[Balthasar]

CyberPoet,

Why do MotoGP bikes use 190's? Also, do you have any diagrams of what you are talking about with the double/triple arch radius?




Also, the Pilot Powers come in:

FRONT
110/70 ZR 17
120/60 ZR 17
120/65 ZR 17
120/70 ZR 17
REAR
150/60 ZR 17
160/60 ZR 17
170/60 ZR 17
180/55 ZR 17
190/50 ZR 17

[The CyberPoet]

Why do MotoGP bikes use 190's? Also, do you have any diagrams of what you are talking about with the double/triple arch radius?

The width requirement of the rear tire is determined by the amount of torque and horsepower the engine puts out -- the higher the power output, the bigger the contact patch needs to be to keep from letting the tire rip loose prematurely coming out of a corner. A liter-sized MotoGP bike putting out 190 to 250 HP needs all the grip it can muster. Your kat puts out a third or less of that -- so the basic reason to go wide simply doesn't exist unless you slapped in a much higher HP engine.

This and virtually every other question you can come up with is explained in detail here:

http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5551

Where it says (in regard to this specific question):

KNOW THIS:
Wider tires are only better if you need them to overcome the amount of horsepower being laid down; narrower tires handle more sharply, steer better, cut water and dirt better (i.e. avoiding hydroplaning), and make the thottle & brakes more responsive (as there is less rotational mass to have to spin up & down). Odds are you will not get a positive benefit from moving to a 170 width tire unless your bike is putting out 90+ rearwheel horses (although unless you compare new tire to new tire, you'll never know for sure).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet