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150,160, or 170 rear tire???maybe 180 o.0...

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  • 150,160, or 170 rear tire???maybe 180 o.0...

    So right now I'm riding a 93 600 stock 3.5" rim with a 150 tire. I known I want wider so I'll have to but the 4.5" rim no problem... My thing is I've been reading around and the 170 tire I keep hearing people say they wanna go back to 160.

    I just want to know why ... Id love to have as much tire to the road as possible I really wanna sayfuck it go 5.5" rim and mod the swinger but I don't got the cash /: .... At the moment

    Should I he patient and just go with 180 or... is the 170 for one comfortable on a 4.5", and 2 would I be satisfied ???

    Thanks b

    Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 2

  • #2
    Personally I'd just stick with stock - I don't believe there's anything to gain from wider rear rubber on these machines.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Stumpy View Post
      Personally I'd just stick with stock - I don't believe there's anything to gain from wider rear rubber on these machines.
      I had a 170 and never could get to the edge. I use all of the 150/70. stay with the 150. if you want a large rear tire, buy a different bike.
      never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself sigpic2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016

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      • #4
        if i was gonna keep the engine stock i would agree. down the line i wanna pick up an early 90s gsxr750 engine and do the swap, so i feel the extra rubber would be worth it. when i buy new tires id rather go with 170 pr2 so when i do the engine swap ill already have the bigger tire and not need to buy another.

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        • #5
          I went from a 140 rear tire on my 1990 pre 600 katana to a post rim 4.5" with a 170 shinko tire, this looks much better than the 140 tire and I usually only use 60-75% of the actual tire, but I'm not a corner carver all the time. Unless you ride
          Only twisties hard all day then your never going to get to the edge every day!

          You gotta remember if you go 170 rear tire u need a tire that is designed for a 4.5" rim by manufacture specs. Not all 170 tires are made for that rim size. Also u need the post wheel hub carrier, post rim brake rotor, and if you do 170 tire u need to modify the brake arm to fit. I did all of these and it was worth it totally! If your replacing the rear tire nows the time as the 170 tire isn't much more expensive than a 150.

          My 600 is also turbo'd so more tire is good and its about to be a turbo'd B12 come next season.
          1990 TURBO Kat 600 G15 hidden turbo 12psi
          fender eliminator w/led integrated tail light
          55w dual HID bixenon projector w/halo, blue lighting
          R6 shock, Custom billet mirrors, oil temp/boost gauges
          Post rim swap 170/120 tires, EBC pads/rotors, G&J lines

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          • #6
            I love my 180... and have yet to find a down side. Several aspects I prefer on it actually.

            Krey
            93 750 Kat



            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
              I love my 180... and have yet to find a down side. Several aspects I prefer on it actually.

              Krey
              +1 but a 170!
              1990 TURBO Kat 600 G15 hidden turbo 12psi
              fender eliminator w/led integrated tail light
              55w dual HID bixenon projector w/halo, blue lighting
              R6 shock, Custom billet mirrors, oil temp/boost gauges
              Post rim swap 170/120 tires, EBC pads/rotors, G&J lines

              Comment


              • #8
                My previous tyres were Avon Storms, rear 160. It flatspotted quite badly, and the front was worn way more on left edge of the tread.

                I swapped to stock size Conti Motions - not as good a tyre perhaps, but the bike seems to handle an awful lot better with them. I'm sure thats more to do with the geometry than anything else.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I feel like I have relevant experience with this, just recently. I've been running the Q2's, both a 160 and a 170. I ended up with the 170 due to a nail in the 160, and the store didn't have another 160, but did have the 170. After finding it's rated for the 4.5" wheel, I went with it just to save time.

                  Well, fast forward to this week. I really wanted to try the new Q3 in the 160. Was getting impatient, as I wanted new tires for the rally coming up, in one week now. So I went into Cyclegear and looked at the 180 they had on the rack. It looked narrow. I asked for a tape measure, and went at it. The Q3 180 was 6 7/8", and bead to bead was 5.25". I went home and measured the unmounted 160 Q2. It was 6 3/4" wide, bead to bead was 5.25". I measured the 170 that was mounted, and it's overall width was right there as well, but it actually is mounted, so take that as a casual measurement.

                  What I found interesting is the profile of the tire. Even the 160 Q2 had to have the beads squeezed together to fit the 4.5" wheel. I've followed guys on sv650's and sv1k's with brand new tires that went to the edges of their tires on that ride. I was going the same speeds, the whole ride, and still had close to 1" chicken strips. I've done trackdays where I drug my toes, while leaned off the bike (upper and lower body to keep the bike upward) and still have 3/4" chicken strips. I seriously think that with the Q2 160 or 170, if I slowly laid my bike over, I'd hit hard parts that would lift the tire off the pavement before I could get close to the edge of the tire due to how the profile changes with the beads squeezed to fit a 4.5" wheel.

                  At this rate, I decided to not go with the Dunlops at all. I feel that the tires rated as 160 and 170, and rated for a 4.5" wheel are too big, and shouldn't be mounted on a 4.5" wheel. That being said, I never had a problem with the tires, except for a little bit of sliding, only while doing trackdays, and each time was entirely due to cold tires, cold track, or both.

                  I did decide on new tires finally, and got the Michelin Pilot Power 3's. They "seem" much smaller than the Dunlops. Got the 160 for the rear. It's beads were closer to 4", and I was worried about it fitting the rear wheel I'm using now. It went onto a 5" wide wheel. I imagine that part of the issue may have been the tire being in a stack for a little while, so unmounted, it wasn't in it's proper shape. That's the problem with measuring unmounted tires, even the Dunlops above. Now that the PP3's are mounted, they look like they have great profiles. That said, I'm kind of wondering now if I will hit the edge of the 160 too soon with the profile of the Michelins.

                  If you're just going to ride and want a good tire and don't really push it, and have never done track days, just go with stock size, or a 160 and you'll be fine. If you do push it, and get to the edges of your tires, and or do trackdays and really know what your bike can do, then it might benefit you to actually take measurements of the tires you're considering, and think about what the profile of the tire will be mounted, and how that will help or hurt for how you want the bike to handle.

                  Also, in case it's not obvious, different tires have different shapes for a reason. Sportier and track oriented tires "generally" have a taller profile to help you turn in, where it feels squirrely until you're leaned over, and then you're super stable. Some people describe that as "falling into the turn". Touring oriented tires have more of a rounded profile, making it more neutal in the turns so it's easier to adjust your line, and so that it's more stable while cruising and gives you a bigger contact patch while upright so it spreads the forces out more, increasing the mileage you get out of the tire (assuming proper inflation).

                  I've rambled too much, and I'm sleep deprived. If this still makes sense tomorrow, I won't come back and delete it.

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                  • #10
                    thank u everyone especially ygolohcysp thats exaclty what i need to hear

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                    • #11
                      Do it right. Send your swing arm off to Kreylyn to be widened and mount a 5.5" wheel. (I've got one available for sale!) Then you can fit your 180 all day.
                      Wherever you go... There you are!

                      17 Inch Wheel Conversion
                      HID Projector Retrofit

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