Brake pads brake-in period???

[Dogs&Kats]

Nov.1st I took my Kat to the dealer to get my brake pads replaced. He recomended to change only the rear brake pads, since there were some life (30%) left on the front ones. At that point the rear brake made some squeel noise but I did consider it normal.
So I got new OEM rear pads and they inmediately started to make a bothersome squeel noise. "break in period.." I though. Then after some 400 miles the noise got worse. I took the bike to the dealer and they just aplied Industrial Cleaner to the brake and told me "that will take care of the problem" couple of days later and the noise is back again.
I'm checking previous threads, where some of you recomend the use of Scotchbrite or other chemicals to clean the brakes. But I remember somebody telling me that aplying cleaning solvents to new brake pads its the easy way to screw them. What should I do?? Do the dealer has some responsability on this?

[md86]

It's normal , and I've heard of people applying disc-brake lube to the backs of the pads to quiet it . Might wanna look into that . I just live with it .

[crazymofo]

give your rear pads a rub with some emery paper or fine grit wet/dry.. seems you may have glazed them over a bit in the run in period.

cheers.joe.

[tzortn]

It's normal , and I've heard of people applying disc-brake lube to the backs of the pads to quiet it . Might wanna look into that . I just live with it .

Permatex makes disc anti squeal stuff. It comes in a small pouch and cost ~$3. You can pick it up at an any autoparts store. I have been told that it works wonders. I used the last time I did my cage brakes and I never had a problem with them.

[The CyberPoet]

IMHO:
High-pitched rear pad squeel is almost always from the pad carriers jittering back and forth on the carrier rod that they ride on. Low pitched ones tend to be from the pad back vibrating against the piston(s).
Cleaning the carrier rod really well and possibly adding a little high-temp grease to it should stop it, at least until it gets coated with more brake dust -- enough to cause the pad to jitter again.
Cleaning the piston edges (to make sure they are coming out true instead of lopsided), checking to ensure the L-shaped shim on the back side of the pads is there (used with stock rear pads on the 98+; not sure about pre-98's), and using a backing on the pads all can help the pad-to-piston vibration issues.

Q: Did you get the old pads back? I ask, because seeing how they wore (flat/even, or lopsided) can tell you whether there is another contributing cause (such as a piston sticking or moving out of kilter).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Dogs&Kats]

Cleaning the pistons edges and aplication of Permatex cleaning spray is due for monday (my next day off). Remember: where I live, I have no parking spot asigned, and every time that I have to work on mi car/bike, I have to go to my sister's house. I'll keep you guys informed.
Ahh, no. Didn't get the ol' pads. I'll do that next time. : Guess I'm learning the hard way.

[The CyberPoet]

Cleaning the pistons edges and aplication of Permatex cleaning spray is due for monday (my next day off). Remember: where I live, I have no parking spot asigned, and every time that I have to work on mi car/bike, I have to go to my sister's house. I'll keep you guys informed.
Ahh, no. Didn't get the ol' pads. I'll do that next time. : Guess I'm learning the hard way.

Always make them hold the old parts for inspection; you don't need to take them home, but you really should eyeball them at least before letting the mechanics trash it. It also ensures that you get new parts in most cases

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[WildKat]

Last time I got new rear brake pads, my mechanic mentioned to just take it easy for the first hundred miles or so. Never had a problem with them since. I did see my old pads though and they were worn to about maybe 10% left to use but forunately worn nice and even.