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how to properly adjust a manual cam chain tensioner?

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  • how to properly adjust a manual cam chain tensioner?

    I have my APE manual cam chain tensioner installed.

    I tightened it by turning the adjuster in by hand until it had tension and was getting hard to turn, and i could feel it hitting the chain guide. I locked it down a 1/4 turn back from this spot....

    When i started the bike it sounded good at idle but i got the sewing machine noise when the RPMs increased, and it would stop when the bike idles.

    I'm not sure what i did wrong.....does the sound with increased rpm indicate i need to add tension to the adjuster or is it too tight?

    I cant seem to find a write up for how this is done and the instructions that come with it are not much help.

    any help on the procedure would be nice

    K well this is my plan.....i got to get this bike together tonight for tomorrow.

    I pulled the plug leads on the coil, i have my carbs and air box off so i can access the tensioner adjustment. I'm going to rotate the motor with the starter rather than a wrench and hopefully it helps to do it that way cause its hard to feel how it is when turning by wrench. while the motor is cranking i'll turn in the adjuster and then back it off 1/4 turn once it hits the chain guides.
    Last edited by 88kat-rider; 03-17-2012, 06:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  • #2


    Not a kat I know, but check out instruction # 5
    1992- project katfighter
    2005- GSXR750
    2001- TL1000R
    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111130
    www.lunchtimecigar.com



    KATRIDERS RALLY 2014 - cintidude04
    KATRIDERS RALLY 2015 - cintidude04
    KATRIDERS RALLY 2016 - cintidude04

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    • #3
      I was able to do all of that but how do i start it and adjust it?

      There is way too much stuff in the way for me to have the tank and carbs on and have room for a wrench?

      I had pulled the plugs and turned the bike over with the starter, and while doing this i turned the tensioner in hand tight. even with it loose and it cranking i didnt hear the clacking noise that it was making before...

      how is this done on a kat? can i run it with the air box off and just with the fuel in the carb bowls?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 88kat-rider View Post
        how is this done on a kat?
        It's not. Most newer bikes don't have the cam chain in the middle of the engine.

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        • #5
          Yep, that sucks, I just tighten mine till it whines then back off about 1/4 turn.
          90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

          Originally posted by Badfaerie
          I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
          Originally posted by soulless kaos
          but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 88kat-rider View Post
            can i run it with the air box off and just with the fuel in the carb bowls?
            It will run like **** with the airbox off. Can you get your hands past the carbs to the adjuster with the airbox mounted?

            There's typically enough in the bowls to do a couple trips down my backlane.
            I'm guessing you'll have enough for a good 20 seconds of run time if you're putting the revs up to 6k to listen for the rattle.

            Or rig up a temp fuel bottle with some spare hose and oil bottles.

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            • #7
              Well I got it to sound acceptable... I just pulled the plug wires and had the bike cranking while I turned it in by hand until it wouldn't go in easy and I backed it off 1/4 turn and locked it down. Seems good, at least an improvement over the initial noise.

              I'm just a little upset the new auto tensioner I put I last fall has crapped out on me. I'm just going to use the manual til my new spring arrives...the old spring is broken in 2 spots right near the end. I have not clue how that could happen other that it was a bad spring to begin with.

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              • #8
                Why just use the manual tensioner until your spring arrives? The manual tensioner is better.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                  Why just use the manual tensioner until your spring arrives? The manual tensioner is better.
                  This.
                  90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

                  Originally posted by Badfaerie
                  I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
                  Originally posted by soulless kaos
                  but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yeah I think I will keeP the manual one. I just need to rig up an aux fuel bottle so I can run the bike and set the adjustment perfectly.

                    The way I did it got me close and I feel ok driving it but I can tell its not perfect because it's got a slight whine or hum to it. Maybe this is normal...I don't know, never heard a katana before getting mine and its 23 years old .

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