[Tmod]

That's what I thought, just needed an expert opinion

they gave me the metal (gray) color ones. Should I request a different rate? Does it make a difference I am running a pre600 front on a pre750 (shouldn't, right?)

Hmmm I am not referring to the fork springs but the springs on the emulators themselves. They should have come with yellow on them.

Tmod

[curseboy]

Yes, I understood that. I'll send for the yellow ones. Do their recommended settings still apply (2 turns for street 4 for track?)

Thanks for all your help!

[Tmod]

Yes, I understood that. I'll send for the yellow ones. Do their recommended settings still apply (2 turns for street 4 for track?)

Thanks for all your help!

Did you get these used? They come with yellow springs, Blue is a option.

Tmod

[curseboy]

Did you get these used? They come with yellow springs, Blue is a option.

Tmod

I got them from Bike Bandit.

[Tmod]

I got them from Bike Bandit.

You could have gotten them from me for $130.00 already setup with extra springs. And the fork springs for $90.00.

Anyway call Racetech and tell them to send you the Blue emulator springs and when you get them put 3 turns on the coil for the emulator preload.

Racetech 1-951-279-6655 x109 and tell him Terry told you to call him.

Tmod

[curseboy]

thanks, will do! I got them before I knew better

[djkat]

wow!

[bob393]

Nice write up. thanks!

[RebornKat02]

Wow that's one of those things I may need to buy an extra set of forks to try. I'm sure even with detail like that I'd find a way to screw it up. That's my biggest gripe with my bike is the forks are just too damn spongy. My next big mod is suspension.

[squiggy]

Wow that's one of those things I may need to buy an extra set of forks to try.

That's what I did. I bought a damaged set on ebay for cheap and practiced on it. It's a good thing too as I messed up in drilling the damper rod.

[katanarider]

That would eliminate needing to braze those holes closed which are exposed by removing the rebound mechanism.

One thing I wasn't sure of is how much to adjust the emulators since the rebound system would cause a restriction of the fork oil. I suppose one could some R&D to it.

Quote is post #10
My forks are from a 1991 "pre-98" 600cc. I don't have the rebound holes under the damper rod outter ring (upper portion of the damper rod). That means I don't have to braze that area but my question is: do I or don't I have to braze the lower rebound holes if I leave the internal rebound adjustment sleeve in place ?
EDIT: I think the damper rod internal sleeve that controls which setting you choose it held into place by the fork cap dial ? So that means the sleeve would rotate from vibrations without something holding it. Feed back welcome here. Tmod you could probably make something to fix this ?


Next, I have a question about the second half of the quote. What does some R&D to it mean ?

[Tmod]

I have a set of pre forks here that I have never torn down so today I will pull one apart and take a look at what you are referring to. I know the posts have a plate to retain the rebound setting directly under the emulator and with the rebound plate installed the emulator will hit it. It would also block a portion of the emulator ports and you don't want that. But that all applies to the post damper rod.

So this evening look for a update as I will give you a better idea of what I think will work or not. I am sure something could be made to keep the rebound clicker but obviously you won't be able to adjust it externally.

R&D= Research and Development, Means it will take a few tries to get things sorted out for your type and preference of riding.

Tmod

[Tmod]

Ok after looking at that setup you are correct that without the D-rod nothing would prevent that sleeve from rotating. With only two holes available and neither being the IMO correct size I would just braze both shut. Also with the smaller id of that damper rod keeping the adjuster would reduce the flow in both the compression and rebound directions. So IMO it is not even worth considering the rebound adjuster.

Tmod

[katanarider]

Just so someone doesn't have questions about this later. There are 3 holes and not 2. One is very tiny. Its barely noticeable.

Next, What do think about useing JB weld on these holes ?
Just by looking at the pictures posted in this thread I can tell the Post-98 models rebound holes look alot larger than my pre98 ones. I'm just trying to save some time and money by doing it another way.

Last, you say to close off all the holes. Would that be a good idea? Does it not need any relief ? I would think that opening up atleast one hole to the same size as the post98 models hole would be the best idea? Again, I don't know

[Tmod]

Just so someone doesn't have questions about this later. There are 3 holes and not 2. One is very tiny. Its barely noticeable.

Next, What do think about useing JB weld on these holes ?
Just by looking at the pictures posted in this thread I can tell the Post-98 models rebound holes look alot larger than my pre98 ones. I'm just trying to save some time and money by doing it another way.

Last, you say to close off all the holes. Would that be a good idea? Does it not need any relief ? I would think that opening up atleast one hole to the same size as the post98 models hole would be the best idea? Again, I don't know

On the untouched damping rod I removed from the pre forks there are only 2 holes, I don't know how many clicker positions you have but if it is 3 you would have 2 holes and a blank, Just as the post has 3 holes and a blank for a 4 position adjuster. Now if someone modified the damping rod on your bike that is a one off and will not count as a baseline. Also on the pre damping rod I have the holes are at 120 degree rotation instead of 90 degree as in the post damping rod which tells me the pre is a 3 clicker adjustment and the post a 4.

Use what you want but IMO solder, braze or weld is the way to go.

When you are in position 4 on a post or 3 on a pre the hole is closed off, You get fluid that passes by the seal at the top of the damper rod and past the check valve located at the lower end of the fork tube.

Tmod