GSX750 Chain Help!

[Syndacate]

Hey,

I'm looking to buy a 'Katana 750.

The bike will be my first bike. It has 14,200 miles on it, the guy wants 2k, but he said I could take it for $1900, maybe $1800, but apparently not any lower.

First off, how's the pricing on this?

Secondly, the chain is loose, he has it extended all the way, so the chain will have to be changed very soon. It's still 100% ride-able, but a chain change in the near future would definitely be in the books.

The owner before him put a yoshimura exhaust on it, but I asked him if he rejetted the carb and he said he wasn't sure, said probably not.

Thirdly, the condition I'd say is fair to good. It has some blemishes and such that you'd expect on a 15 year old bike, little chip in the side plastic makes it look like somebody tipped it over while standing, but to the best of his knowledge was never dumped, but little crap like that around the bike.

Fourthly, my friend took it for a test drive (I don't have my license yet) and said everything sounds/feels great as far as power and shifting go, but at very low speeds (<10mph, parking lot speeds) the steering kind of kicks back/fights you. The owner mentioned this up front, reckoned it could was probably a tire balance issue, but I'm thinking the rim might be bent (although you'd think my friend would feel that when he put it up to ~100...but same goes for the tire balance theory).

So first off, what kind of deal does this sound like to you guys?
Secondly, when I change the chain, how much am I looking at/where the hell do I get a new one?

I don't know anything about changing the chain, but the concept seems simple enough - I've been working on cars all throughout highschool and college so I would say I have a pretty decent amount of knowledge of mechanics/engines. I don't mind tackling the task, but it's the price that concerns me. It seems to be about 120-190, can't find a consistent price, ANYWHERE. I'm not looking for rainbow colored chains, or gold plated, or any cheap ebay bull****. I just want the price/URL for a regular damn replacement chain/sprocket kit (as it seems you can't just replace the chain). I typically buy OEM parts for my Honda via sites like slhondaparts.com or hondaautomotiveparts.com which sell real OEM parts, but a ****-ton less than what the dealer would sell them for.

Any sites like this? Links to a regular OEM chain? What do you guys think in terms of price/what you get. I told the guy I'd send him an e-mail by tomorrow morning/afternoon telling him.

[niqbales]

What year? for price question...

Supersprox seem to be popular I'm thinking about getting one of these kits. Maybe show him the price of the chain and sprocket kit, definitely worth spending the money once on the right one.

[Kreylyn]

Hey,

I'm looking to buy a 'Katana 750.

The bike will be my first bike. It has 14,200 miles on it, the guy wants 2k, but he said I could take it for $1900, maybe $1800, but apparently not any lower.

First off, how's the pricing on this?

Secondly, the chain is loose, he has it extended all the way, so the chain will have to be changed very soon. It's still 100% ride-able, but a chain change in the near future would definitely be in the books.

The owner before him put a yoshimura exhaust on it, but I asked him if he rejetted the carb and he said he wasn't sure, said probably not.

Thirdly, the condition I'd say is fair to good. It has some blemishes and such that you'd expect on a 15 year old bike, little chip in the side plastic makes it look like somebody tipped it over while standing, but to the best of his knowledge was never dumped, but little crap like that around the bike.

Fourthly, my friend took it for a test drive (I don't have my license yet) and said everything sounds/feels great as far as power and shifting go, but at very low speeds (<10mph, parking lot speeds) the steering kind of kicks back/fights you. The owner mentioned this up front, reckoned it could was probably a tire balance issue, but I'm thinking the rim might be bent (although you'd think my friend would feel that when he put it up to ~100...but same goes for the tire balance theory).

So first off, what kind of deal does this sound like to you guys?
Secondly, when I change the chain, how much am I looking at/where the hell do I get a new one?

I don't know anything about changing the chain, but the concept seems simple enough - I've been working on cars all throughout highschool and college so I would say I have a pretty decent amount of knowledge of mechanics/engines. I don't mind tackling the task, but it's the price that concerns me. It seems to be about 120-190, can't find a consistent price, ANYWHERE. I'm not looking for rainbow colored chains, or gold plated, or any cheap ebay bull****. I just want the price/URL for a regular damn replacement chain/sprocket kit (as it seems you can't just replace the chain). I typically buy OEM parts for my Honda via sites like slhondaparts.com or hondaautomotiveparts.com which sell real OEM parts, but a ****-ton less than what the dealer would sell them for.

Any sites like this? Links to a regular OEM chain? What do you guys think in terms of price/what you get. I told the guy I'd send him an e-mail by tomorrow morning/afternoon telling him.

$1800 for a 95 750 if it's in good shape, not wrecked, and ready to ride... I would say yes.

$1800 - $250 (cost of chain/sprockets and someone else to put them on) for replacing the chain and sprockets so it's ready to ride... I would say yes to $1550 with needing chains/sprockets.

The front wheel/handling issue at low speeds needs to be worked out before purchase, at least what is causing the problem.

Tire pressure, bad wheel bearings, bent/warped wheels, cupped tires, bent/misaligned forks, bent triples, bad stearing stem bearings, bent frame... are all possible reasons. Depending upon the cause, may be further reason to adjust the purchase price or walk away.

As for parts... unlike cars, alot of the parts your going to want to use will be aftermarket, some will be OEM... it's a variable. We can help with specific suggestions, or contact a good reputable vender like HS2020 of this website... he can hook you up with good adivce, and good prices for most parts you need.

Like the chain and sproket set.

Krey

[voodoobilly]

http://www.mopowersports.com/

[Syndacate]

What year? for price question...

Supersprox seem to be popular I'm thinking about getting one of these kits. Maybe show him the price of the chain and sprocket kit, definitely worth spending the money once on the right one.

I'm sorry, '95. How do I know which one to get? They seem to range from 90-190 bucks..different number of teeth, different symbols, RX, TX, **** like that? I assume the sprocket has to be changed with the chain, tryin for the cheapest "good" kit, but the issue isn't immediate, just pretty loose. I can probably wait a paycheck or two.

$1800 for a 95 750 if it's in good shape, not wrecked, and ready to ride... I would say yes.

$1800 - $250 (cost of chain/sprockets and someone else to put them on) for replacing the chain and sprockets so it's ready to ride... I would say yes to $1550 with needing chains/sprockets.

The front wheel/handling issue at low speeds needs to be worked out before purchase, at least what is causing the problem.

Tire pressure, bad wheel bearings, bent/warped wheels, cupped tires, bent/misaligned forks, bent triples, bad stearing stem bearings, bent frame... are all possible reasons. Depending upon the cause, may be further reason to adjust the purchase price or walk away.

As for parts... unlike cars, alot of the parts your going to want to use will be aftermarket, some will be OEM... it's a variable. We can help with specific suggestions, or contact a good reputable vender like HS2020 of this website... he can hook you up with good adivce, and good prices for most parts you need.

Like the chain and sproket set.

Krey

I see. Yeah, the steering issue really makes it a kind of torn decision for me. He has no idea what the issue is (he thinks it's a bad balance, but I don't buy that) and unless I really learn about it or take it to a shop I won't know what the issue is. That plus the chain/sprocket kit makes it a bit bitter in my mind. On the flipside the engine runs like a top :-\.

Thought this could be my first bike, but it's not looking too hot as far as the purchasing decision goes...

http://www.mopowersports.com/

Ah, thanks.

[loudnlow7484]

If the steering is "fighting you" as you say, I would first suspect bent forks, but you should be able to see this. Second guess is steering head bearings. Low tire pressure can make the front end feel uncooperative as well.

[HungLow]

If the steering is "fighting you" as you say, I would first suspect bent forks, but you should be able to see this. Second guess is steering head bearings. Low tire pressure can make the front end feel uncooperative as well.

yeah if it was forks you would feel it while ryding at all speeds, 1800 is a good deal for a first bike i think.

[Syndacate]

yeah if it was forks you would feel it while ryding at all speeds, 1800 is a good deal for a first bike i think.

Yea, this was told by the guy up front as well as my friend when he test drove it to be only at very low speeds, such as parking lot speeds, turning, etc. My friend said he only felt it when he went to turn the bike around on the road.

What year? for price question...

Supersprox seem to be popular I'm thinking about getting one of these kits. Maybe show him the price of the chain and sprocket kit, definitely worth spending the money once on the right one.

How can you tell anything about them?

The cheapest is $150 and it goes up to $240, it tells you the number of links, but the two 120's just show different part #'s, not any differences.. Also, does the sprocket (if so, which) have to be changed with the chain? Them always coming as kits I was under the impression that it did.

As for the steering issue, it's only at low speeds, if you let go of the handle bars it wants to jerk a little to the side, nothing passed parking lot speeds is felt, though. It's not fighting like resistance, it's fighting like shaking back. The owner said that if you let go of the bars while coming to a stop it shakes pretty good...I don't know what to make of that at all...

[802er]

2 years ago I paid $2200 for a 1995 750 w/ 16k miles. This was the summer when gas prices went way up and demand for bikes seemed high. Everything on it is stock. I would say the bike was in fair condition and mechanically sound. There's a little ding in the gas tank w/ a couple of fairing scrapes. The PO admitted the bike had been on it's side a couple times but never wrecked.

I've since had to put new tires on it and just picked up a chain/sprocket set here.

[Kreylyn]

Yea, this was told by the guy up front as well as my friend when he test drove it to be only at very low speeds, such as parking lot speeds, turning, etc. My friend said he only felt it when he went to turn the bike around on the road.



How can you tell anything about them?

The cheapest is $150 and it goes up to $240, it tells you the number of links, but the two 120's just show different part #'s, not any differences.. Also, does the sprocket (if so, which) have to be changed with the chain? Them always coming as kits I was under the impression that it did.

As for the steering issue, it's only at low speeds, if you let go of the handle bars it wants to jerk a little to the side, nothing passed parking lot speeds is felt, though. It's not fighting like resistance, it's fighting like shaking back. The owner said that if you let go of the bars while coming to a stop it shakes pretty good...I don't know what to make of that at all...

Chain and sprocket shopping...

First, a theory about chain and sproket wear... As chains and sprockets are used, they form a wear pattern specific to that set. It's a general conscensus that when you change only the chain... you end up with a yo-yo effect as each tries to adjust to the wear patterns of this mixed set. That is supposed to greatly decrease the over all life of all parts involved. This is why it's suggested you change chains and sprockets at the same time. yes, they will work with mixed parts, but the wear is faster.

That said... moving on to the parts...

Chains.

Most of the information on this page of this website is fairly accurate. It tells you of the types and tensile str of the chains, some basics.

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

From the research I've done, the best I can tell is the stock OEM chain put on your Kat was a 118 link 530 RK standard oring chain, tinsil str of 6600 or so, with a wear rating of about 200. (just for reference when your picking the next chain to use).

530 refers to the size/pitch of the individual chain components, not the number of lengths. The way a chain works requries you to always have the chain in even numbers of lengths. Your chain will either be 112, 114, 116, 118, or 120 for example... Pre Kat 750 stock was 118.

Sprockets...

Generally, the 2 primary materials sprockets are made out of are steel or aluminum. There might be some others with a combination of the two, or some additional exotic metals... but generaly.... steel or aluminum.

Steel will last longer... but... balance that with chain life (doesnt' make much sense to me to worry about pairing a 50k life sprocket with a 20k life chain when you change them all anyways when you replace 1. )

For the front, I would always suggest steel becuase of the small circ. of the sprocket and increased wear from the chain folding over so tightly on it.

Now... that said... you have some info on what to look for.

I personally like RK chains, I hear D.I.D chains are good stuff too. Those are pretty much the top 2 brands for quality and long life. I also prefer the X-ring chains.

The sprocket that has been recomended already, is a good one... long life. I am currently using an aluminum one from vortex... you get about 50/50 mix on who likes the aluminum sprockets... so it's up to you.

There are what's called "520 conversions" which very simply mean... the 3 parts (2 sprockets and 1 chain) in a 520 size instead of the 530 stock size. The difference is the chain is not as wide, so less weight slighly.

The 520 conversion kits are cheaper than a 530 kit... but are supposed to wear quicker. :stm102 Again, so far I can see about a 50/50 for people's opinions on swaping or staying stock.

I personally am using a 520 RK X-ring chain (520 RK XSO 120) combined with vortex steel front sprocket, and vortex aluminum rear sprocket with a 15/50 tooth setup. I have 8k miles on it currently, with no issues, no wear, no needed adjustments for chain stretch. I have a pre 750 Kat, with jetkit and exhaust, so a tad bit more umph than stock. It's working well for me so far.

One last piece of advice... if you don't know the brand name of the parts, then it most likely isn't a deal... so if you look on ebay, make sure they tell you exactly what it is, or pass.

I hope this helps...

Krey