[Kreylyn]

Bought the 750 engine linked earlier for $330

http://m.ebay.com/itm/351119882199?nav=SEARCH

Will this exhaust work with my setup? (Post 750 and pre 600 frame)

I read the engine swap info on the wiki, but I'm not sure if there's a difference in the pre and post 750 exhausts. Thanks in advance for any info

I'd suggest you buy just the header for a post, and then pick a good slip on option for the midpipe/can for a post. That would be optimal.

But... either way you can use wich ever (pre/post) exhausts by simply using the oil pan from the equiv engine. So if you did buy the pre OEM exhaust, use the oil pan and pickup from the pre engine on the newer engine you bought to match up and have clearances.

Krey

[Poody]

Okay, so ideally I need to match engine generation as well. Thanks guys. It's refreshing to have helpful people on this forum. I'm used to the vwvortex forums where if you ask any question, you are guaranteed at least 3 dickhead responses and maybe one helpful answer if you're lucky.

Only problem with buying the header separate is I'm having trouble finding either exhaust portion with a mid pipe, unless it's a full exhaust or brand new. I'll keep looking though

[Kreylyn]

Okay, so ideally I need to match engine generation as well. Thanks guys. It's refreshing to have helpful people on this forum. I'm used to the vwvortex forums where if you ask any question, you are guaranteed at least 3 dickhead responses and maybe one helpful answer if you're lucky.

Only problem with buying the header separate is I'm having trouble finding either exhaust portion with a mid pipe, unless it's a full exhaust or brand new. I'll keep looking though

The pre systems are complete welded together on each side.

The post systems connect at the header as a 4-1 system. All after market slip on options for the post will include a mid pipe to connect the can to the header.

Something like this... the "S" pipe it's talking about is the mid pipe to connect to the header.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Katana-600-750-Scorpion-Stainless-Steel-Slip-On-Exhaust-/140492724367?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b604d88f&vxp=mtr

That's a really nice sounding can too btw, if new is a consideration.

Krey

[Badfaerie]

The one thing I haven't seen mentioned that you will want for a 600 to 750 swap is a 750 oil cooler. It is larger and provides more cooling than the 600 does. I believe there is a difference in the brackets between pre and post as well but I don't know if you need to match the motor, the cooler or the frame from those, Tim (Kreylyn) or someone else here can let you know when or what brackets and/or cooler you want to go with your motor and frame.

[Poody]

Yeah I picked up on that info from the wiki, thanks though! I'm assuming the cooler should match engine size and frame, so I'm looking for a pre 750 cooler. If a post will work then that's cool too. Probably won't end up getting one until after I get the thing running though since I can't ride until spring. Another thing I'm thinking about is the engine mounts. Didn't get them with the bike unless I looked over them somehow. Does it matter what generation I buy them from?

[Badfaerie]

Yeah I picked up on that info from the wiki, thanks though! I'm assuming the cooler should match engine size and frame, so I'm looking for a pre 750 cooler. If a post will work then that's cool too. Probably won't end up getting one until after I get the thing running though since I can't ride until spring.

Your best time to get a good price on one will be August thru mid October, then Jan-mid February. These seem to be time frames when folks either part out wrecked bikes or clean out parts from garages.

I've sourced parts for a few of these swaps. I'm not trying to be pushy or anything, just trying to share my hard earned experience with this. If you've been looking at some of the 600-750 swap threads, one of them is probably my bike

[Poody]

It's been a GREAT couple of days. Got the rear suspension together, and started working on getting the carbs cleaned/synced. Got 2 cleaned without issue, the third I can't get the bowl screws out, the fourth I managed to get loose, but the diaphragm cap crumbled, and the carb body underneath the cap broke off. I think I can Jb weld the body piece back on fairly easily, but I need a couple new diaphragm caps now.

Might just sell the carbs for parts and get a proper set of 750 carbs. Also looking at getting a Danmoto exhaust. Not looking for anything top of the line so it's should work fine for now.


Suspension off and cleaning/sanding the frame

[Kreylyn]

Alumiweld is a great repair option for the carb body, and fairly easy to use.


Krey

[Poody]

Yeah, I have a few alum brazing rods laying in my tool box. It's almost ridiculous how clean the parts need to be before you braze though, and I this might prove difficult to repair. I'm assuming I should take all the jets and slide etc out before brazing?

[Kreylyn]

Yeah, I have a few alum brazing rods laying in my tool box. It's almost ridiculous how clean the parts need to be before you braze though, and I this might prove difficult to repair. I'm assuming I should take all the jets and slide etc out before brazing?

Alumiweld isn't a brazing option, but you will need heat.

Yes, you want to make sure you remove any and everything including the butterfly and linkage.

Krey

[Poody]

Hmm. Is alumiweld considered a solder then? Either way, sounds like a hell of a lot more trouble than it's worth. I put the carbs up on ebay, found a nice set of post 750s for only $115 shipped

[Poody]

So the seller on ebay decided to sell the carbs to someone else instead of doing a combined shipping deal with me so in back to looking for 750 carbs/header.

If anybody wants a cheap set of pre 600 carbs just let me know

http://m.ebay.com/itm/290887150858?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Will these bad boys work on a post 750 engine?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/400753125429?nav=SEARCH

And should I even bother with these?

[muffinman]

If you can't find another set then I would go with the 2nd ones and completely clean and rebuild them.

[Poody]

Alright, so I managed to break that last screw loose on the float bowls, got the carbs all cleaned up and reassembled. Have new Allen head screws in the mail to replace the soft metal screws that are all stripped. Just gotta be sure not to over tighten them because these new ones are stainless also found some epoxy putty to fix the broken carb diaphragm cap. Still plan on grabbing some 750 carbs before spring, but that should free up some cash for an exhaust to at least get her running.

Engine should be here today, should also have my two suspension bolts in the next day or two, and I plan on brazing the carb body together tonight of tomorrow. Then it's valve adjustment time!

One question I still have is what motor mounts I will need to use to bolt a post engine into a pre frame. I'm assuming pre mounts for a pre frame but conformation would be nice. If everything goes according to plan I should have it running by the end of the month. But then again, when do things ever go according to plan?

[Kreylyn]

Alright, so I managed to break that last screw loose on the float bowls, got the carbs all cleaned up and reassembled. Have new Allen head screws in the mail to replace the soft metal screws that are all stripped. Just gotta be sure not to over tighten them because these new ones are stainless also found some epoxy putty to fix the broken carb diaphragm cap. Still plan on grabbing some 750 carbs before spring, but that should free up some cash for an exhaust to at least get her running.

Engine should be here today, should also have my two suspension bolts in the next day or two, and I plan on brazing the carb body together tonight of tomorrow. Then it's valve adjustment time!

One question I still have is what motor mounts I will need to use to bolt a post engine into a pre frame. I'm assuming pre mounts for a pre frame but conformation would be nice. If everything goes according to plan I should have it running by the end of the month. But then again, when do things ever go according to plan?

Mounting points on the engine match up, so use the hardware and cradle from the frame the engine is going into.


Krey