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Damper Bolt Removal Using Drilling Method Question

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  • Damper Bolt Removal Using Drilling Method Question

    Hi guys, before I ask my question I'll let you know the steps I took.

    I'm currently disassembling the forks on my 93 600 to replace the seals. I searched the forums, read Black_Peter's thread, watched his video, used the SEARCH button to search for similar threads but couldn't find one piece of the puzzle.

    QUESTION: How do I go about removing the damper bolt once it's stripped. I know you can take a 5/6th drill bit and drill until the "head" comes off. But what do I do after that? Wouldn't the thread lock still be in place and now I have no head to remove with. Do I use an extractor bit? Thanks, any and all help is appreciated.

  • #2
    After you remove the bolt you tip the fork to slide out the damper rod. If you drill the head off it should still slide out. You obviously would still need to work on the remaining bolt once it was out. I am just going off of what I see in my manual for my '98. I will be tackling this soon on my bike. Hopefully the bolt breaks loose and just unthreads.
    Good luck.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the quick reply! That makes a lot of sense, hopefully when I drill the head off I will have enough clearance to get my dremel on the screw and make a flat notch.

      What size are the replacement bolts? M8-1.25?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by imghandi View Post
        Thanks for the quick reply! That makes a lot of sense, hopefully when I drill the head off I will have enough clearance to get my dremel on the screw and make a flat notch.

        What size are the replacement bolts? M8-1.25?
        I do not know the size. I am about 30 minutes from starting the job on my bike.

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        • #5
          got it out! drilled about 1/4-1/2 inch in and got my long hex socket (with round ball) in and it finally came out pretty easily, probably was the extra leverage from the deeper hole and the heat from drilling and the COPIOUS amount of pb blaster i used. Thanks for the help!

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          • #6
            For future reference the round ball on the allen wrench is quite possibly the reason the socket cap bolt stripped in the first place. I'm not an advocate of those.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by arsenic View Post
              For future reference the round ball on the allen wrench is quite possibly the reason the socket cap bolt stripped in the first place. I'm not an advocate of those.
              Tried mine couple hours ago and did not feel right. My standard 6mm hex was not long enough. Just got back getting the right hex. Spun but did not come out. Got the trusty air gun out and came right out.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by rschlegel View Post
                Got the trusty air gun out and came right out.
                Usually does. Unless you use a hex key socket with a round ball on the end. In that case I guarantee you'll strip the socket cap bolt.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                  Usually does. Unless you use a hex key socket with a round ball on the end. In that case I guarantee you'll strip the socket cap bolt.
                  I agree, that's why I went out and bought the right tool. I think I may take the cutoff wheel to all the long ball end hexes I have.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rschlegel View Post
                    I agree, that's why I went out and bought the right tool. I think I may take the cutoff wheel to all the long ball end hexes I have.
                    I've done that

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                    • #11
                      I don't have a cutoff wheel. Do you think a dremel and a filer would work well enough?

                      Thanks for the help, I'm reassembling as we speak. For measuring the fork oil, how critical is getting the level precise? I don't have any special tools and am simply using the service manual which states 460ml per leg. If the forks are completely drained I should just use that, correct?

                      EDIT: Also, what would you guys recommend to use to clean out the parts? Brake cleaner?
                      Last edited by imghandi; 04-26-2014, 07:45 PM. Reason: additional question

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by imghandi View Post
                        I don't have a cutoff wheel. Do you think a dremel and a filer would work well enough?

                        Thanks for the help, I'm reassembling as we speak. For measuring the fork oil, how critical is getting the level precise? I don't have any special tools and am simply using the service manual which states 460ml per leg. If the forks are completely drained I should just use that, correct?

                        EDIT: Also, what would you guys recommend to use to clean out the parts? Brake cleaner?
                        Napa auto parts had the right hex socket that was long enough.

                        A hack saw would probably be better than a dremel.

                        Oil level is very important. Find out what the measurement in MM is. Compress the upper fork tube without the spring or spacer and measure it. Make each one the same. Also make sure you install the forks exactly the same height in the triple clamp as the other one.

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                        • #13
                          If you have a Dremel, I recommend you invest in this:
                          Dremel EZ406 1 1/2" EZ Lock Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel &Mandrel Metal Cutting kit
                          I just ordered a 20 pack of cut off wheels (I already have 3 mandrels), I'm running low. Thanks for the reminder.
                          Last edited by arsenic; 04-26-2014, 08:16 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                            If you have a Dremel, I recommend you invest in this:
                            Dremel EZ406 1 1/2" EZ Lock Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel &Mandrel Metal Cutting kit
                            I just ordered a 20 pack of cut off wheels (I already have 3 mandrels), I'm running low. Thanks for the reminder.
                            I forgot that they make the small cutoffs for the dremel. I guess its been a while since having mine out.
                            Last edited by rschlegel; 04-26-2014, 08:52 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for the suggestion Arsenic. The kit I bought came with various cutters, grinders etc. I didn't realize that was a called a cutoff wheel but i'm pretty sure I already have that. They were extremely useful getting the stripped screws out when doing my carbs, which I replaced with stainless steel screws.

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