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Hello everyone,
My Kat died seemingly overnight last week. After a hard stop trying to avoid a careless cager the bike started to sputter. I looked at the gas gauge and noticed I needed to refuel. I brought the tank to the 3/4 mark and started it again; but, as I drove away I felt the bike lose power and had to open the throttle fully to keep moving slowly. A quarter mile later the engine quit and I had to push it home about two blocks down the street. The bike had been running very well prior to this day. The day before I rode it about 60 miles on the freeway without any hint of problems. The last carburator and valve service was done by my neighboorhood bike shop about 4000 miles ago, in October last year.
I removed the gas tank and found the fuel petcock did not have a vacuum line attached. Figuring this was the cause of the problem I found the loose hose from carb #4 and reconnected it. I also reconnected the airbox drain hose because it had come undone. I started to crank the engine with the fuel petcock in the ON postion and the choke lever opened full but the engine did not turn over. I connected jumper cables to my car to assist the bike's battery and switched the petcock to PRI while I waited for about 30 secs for the carbs to fill up. With choke on full, throttle closed, petcock in PRI, my car running hooked to the Kat's battery posts, the starter began to crank and after a couple of attempts the engined turned over slowly pushing white smoke out of the exhaust and near the head cover. I pulled the 4000 mile-old plugs, two were oily, one dry black and another seemed just fuel wet. I checked for spark and found it on all four plugs. Cleaned them, replaced them and tried the engine again. The longest the engined has turned over is about 4 seconds, the legntt of time fuel remains in the bowls I suppose.
At this point I suspect I have a bad PVC or vacuum somewhere. I want to disable the California emissions system so I can trouble shoot this problem further.
Can anyone tell me if this conversion is as simple as fabricating block off plates for the passages below the exhaust headers, capping the vapor plugs at the bottom and at the top of the carburators (8 plugs in total), capping the vapor hose from the tank to the charcoal cannister, and connecting the vacuum line from carb#4 to the rear of the fuel petcock?
I will not remove the the air switching valve, PAIRs, 2nd air filter, charcoal cannister from the bike yet. I just want to see the bike idling and possibly running without the added complications of the emissions system. Carb cleaning, adjustment, valve clearance check and likely new piston rings will follow after I get her idling.
I've just picked up a few feet of new hose from the store and will be removing the inline fuel filters that the shop installed to rule out blockage at that point. The current house routing is shown in the picture I have attached. Carb# 4 vaccum plugged to the rear of fuel petcock dual fuel lines with inline filters plugged to carbs. California nipple or T-splitter connected to air switching valve and to top of carbs # 4 and #2, a hose bridging vacuum plugs at top of carbs 2&3. The vacuum diagram sticker on top of the rear tire well shows a different routing; but, the bike was working fine with the current set up before. If you can spot anything out of place in the picture please let me know.
My Kat died seemingly overnight last week. After a hard stop trying to avoid a careless cager the bike started to sputter. I looked at the gas gauge and noticed I needed to refuel. I brought the tank to the 3/4 mark and started it again; but, as I drove away I felt the bike lose power and had to open the throttle fully to keep moving slowly. A quarter mile later the engine quit and I had to push it home about two blocks down the street. The bike had been running very well prior to this day. The day before I rode it about 60 miles on the freeway without any hint of problems. The last carburator and valve service was done by my neighboorhood bike shop about 4000 miles ago, in October last year.
I removed the gas tank and found the fuel petcock did not have a vacuum line attached. Figuring this was the cause of the problem I found the loose hose from carb #4 and reconnected it. I also reconnected the airbox drain hose because it had come undone. I started to crank the engine with the fuel petcock in the ON postion and the choke lever opened full but the engine did not turn over. I connected jumper cables to my car to assist the bike's battery and switched the petcock to PRI while I waited for about 30 secs for the carbs to fill up. With choke on full, throttle closed, petcock in PRI, my car running hooked to the Kat's battery posts, the starter began to crank and after a couple of attempts the engined turned over slowly pushing white smoke out of the exhaust and near the head cover. I pulled the 4000 mile-old plugs, two were oily, one dry black and another seemed just fuel wet. I checked for spark and found it on all four plugs. Cleaned them, replaced them and tried the engine again. The longest the engined has turned over is about 4 seconds, the legntt of time fuel remains in the bowls I suppose.
At this point I suspect I have a bad PVC or vacuum somewhere. I want to disable the California emissions system so I can trouble shoot this problem further.
Can anyone tell me if this conversion is as simple as fabricating block off plates for the passages below the exhaust headers, capping the vapor plugs at the bottom and at the top of the carburators (8 plugs in total), capping the vapor hose from the tank to the charcoal cannister, and connecting the vacuum line from carb#4 to the rear of the fuel petcock?
I will not remove the the air switching valve, PAIRs, 2nd air filter, charcoal cannister from the bike yet. I just want to see the bike idling and possibly running without the added complications of the emissions system. Carb cleaning, adjustment, valve clearance check and likely new piston rings will follow after I get her idling.
I've just picked up a few feet of new hose from the store and will be removing the inline fuel filters that the shop installed to rule out blockage at that point. The current house routing is shown in the picture I have attached. Carb# 4 vaccum plugged to the rear of fuel petcock dual fuel lines with inline filters plugged to carbs. California nipple or T-splitter connected to air switching valve and to top of carbs # 4 and #2, a hose bridging vacuum plugs at top of carbs 2&3. The vacuum diagram sticker on top of the rear tire well shows a different routing; but, the bike was working fine with the current set up before. If you can spot anything out of place in the picture please let me know.
However, I would also check the plugs to make sure they are firing. Take all four of them out, lay them on the valve cover and hit the start button. Watch for spark on all 4 of them. If you don't have spark, there is one issue. Then we know which direction to help you go.
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