[KYT]

ok thanks, the link to the Metal-fab site was the same one you posted.
The other link right above it doesn't work.

I was looking at the wiring diagrams, I think they're all mostly the same, for the headlights anyway.
The asymetrical diagrams don't apply though

I'm going back out for some more testing.
We were supposed to go for a good long ride today.
If I can get this figured out in the next hour or so, I have to either take it to a shop, or ride with no head light.
We'll be back before dark anyway, so its not a read big deal.
Just want it to work damn it!

[DumbLuck]

black with white stripe is ground. on my pre yellow with white stripe brings 12v to the switch, yellow is the low beam, and white the high beam. hope that helps. connectors get gummed up and loose, even tho they look tight. pull them apart, inspect, clean, lube with dielectric grease, and firmly reconnect. the majority of problems are ground wire associated.

[KYT]

black with white stripe is ground. on my pre yellow with white stripe brings 12v to the switch, yellow is the low beam, and white the high beam. hope that helps. connectors get gummed up and loose, even tho they look tight. pull them apart, inspect, clean, lube with dielectric grease, and firmly reconnect. the majority of problems are ground wire associated.

on mine, in to the switch:
Yellow/white: 12v

Out to lights is:
White: low beam
Yellow: High beam

I called a couple local shops and a guy I take my carbs to, everyone is saying it has to be a short in something.
most people are saying the ground is shorting.
I didn't know it was possible to short a ground, or I'm not sure what they meant.
the carb guy said he sees Suzukis come in to him all the time with faulty harness connectors.
I wasn't able to get mine to work by jumping the harness like he suggested. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.

Here's something I did earlier by someone else's suggestion..
I cut a long piece of wire and attached it to the positive batt term.
then touched it to different things, while the ignition key was OFF.
first was the white contact on the back of one of the headlight sockets.
Both came on
then I touched it to the white wire coming going in to theheadlight harness, both lights came on, so power is able to go through that connector...
I touched it to the yellow/white wire going to the dimmer switch, both low came on. Then I flipped the switch and both high came on, low went off... like its supposed to..
If I touch it to the white or the yellow coming out of the switch the lamps come on as they should.
I found a thick yellow/white wire on the harness that comes from the right hand system, from looking at a Euro K2 wiring diag, this runs from the ignition switch to the fuse box.. I touch it, the lights come on, even with the key still off..

So is my ignition switch defective?
I can't get to the harness that comes straight out from the ignition because it in the center of the bike under the tank, and I didn't have time to take it off.

We ended up going riding anway, I put all the plastics back on, and took a 2 hour trip from Louisville, KY to Tell City, IN. Sometime along the way the lights started working. I was leading so I didn't notice until another rider pointed it out when we were almost there.
We stopped and had lunch at Wendy's. We were there for ~30min.
When we left, lights didn't work.
I know that if they aren't working the highbeam light on the instrument cluster doesn't come on either. So on the interstate on the way home I'd check it everyonce in a while to see if came back, and it did after maybe 15-20min on the highway.
We stopped at my grandparents once we got back, were there for 1.5-2hrs, and the lights continued to work...

Ideas?
I'll take those connectors apart and clean them up as you suggest, none of them are corroded or anything though. but if you think it'll help, I'll try anything at this point.
Which harness do I do it to?
all of them??

[Trackerrrr]

Let's clarify, grounds don't short, they become OPEN and break the circuit.

[KYT]

Let's clarify, grounds don't short, they become OPEN and break the circuit.

ok makes sense.
I checked the ground on the plug to the battery terminal, and the multimeter beeped. should I have checked it to some other place instead?

[kevin2502000]

What about the actual plug for the headlight bulbs?

[KYT]

What about the actual plug for the headlight bulbs?

That's what I'm talking about.
I disconnected one of the lights and poked my tester in the ground side, and touched the other to the battery, it beeps

[kevin2502000]

I would agree u have a good ground then.

[KYT]

I would agree u have a good ground then.

ARG!!
wth is wrong with it then?!
I forgot to pick up a paper clip today so I could pop the harness connectors apart to clean them and I need to get some of that dielectric stuff.
I'll probably have to wait for this weekend to do all that anyway

[kevin2502000]

You are testing when they aren't working correct?

[katman05]

Open the right hand control pod on the handle bar and check the soldering, the same thing happened to me and one of the wires was disconnected due to bad soldering. Resoldered and problem solved.

[Robtech3]

had the same problem on a Honda shadow it was the switch it's self had to replace the hole switch pod but it was also a recal

[KYT]

You are testing when they aren't working correct?

That is correct.

Open the right hand control pod on the handle bar and check the soldering, the same thing happened to me and one of the wires was disconnected due to bad soldering. Resoldered and problem solved.

I can do that

had the same problem on a Honda shadow it was the switch it's self had to replace the hole switch pod but it was also a recal

Which switch, the dimmer?
I don't think its the dimmer because, if I use a wire from the +batt to the Y/W wire going in to the switch, the dimmer works properly.

Or do you mean the ignition swith?

[katman05]

So, any update yet?

[LoneWolf]

i'm curious on an update also i have the EXACT same problem, i replaced the headlight switch and it fixed the problem...but only temporarily