[muffinman]

Impact wrench will pop it off.

[Poody]

Still working on getting the last couple of engine mount bolts in, got a couple ratchet straps that should make things way easier

While digging through my parts box, I found a few hoses and check valves that I have identified as the California model only parts. Can I leave these off the bike, or will I need them to get it running properly?

[Kreylyn]

Still working on getting the last couple of engine mount bolts in, got a couple ratchet straps that should make things way easier

While digging through my parts box, I found a few hoses and check valves that I have identified as the California model only parts. Can I leave these off the bike, or will I need them to get it running properly?

You don't need any of the CA stuff, but you will want to make sure any parts that your using that had them connected to... are properly blocked off. There are several theads on removing the CA stuff. Might want to read through to make sure your not missing something. For example: the bottom of the carbs will have a port for each body that needs to be capped off.


krey

[Poody]

I'll get to reading on that. Hard to decipher what is what exactly because it is all off the bike already but good to know that it doesn't need to go back on. I'll try to look up pics on ebay or something to figure out the ports that will need to be capped off. Thanks again for all the help dudes, you're all awesome

[Poody]

Just to clarify, are the tubes that the above pictured T connects to the correct ones to plug for the CA emissions delete?

[shpielers]

Yes.
I put a cap lined with RVT on the T when I did my delete. Krey made some brass plugs for his and pulled the lines completely out, and tapped in the plugs. Both ways work, Krey's is just not ever coming out on accident. Mine, it's unlikely but possible.

[Poody]

Good to know. I'll probably just throw vacuum caps on mine as well. Thanks buddy

[shpielers]

Glad to help!
Just make sure you give the RVT a couple days to cure before installing the carbs and running the bike. Any of that gets sucked into the carbs/engine...well...nothing good can come of that.

[Poody]

Been a while since I've posted. Had more time off work which means I worked on the Kat. Put together a little bleeder setup which was basically just a 1 liter coke bottle with some clear vinyl tubing shoved through the cap. Flushed 1/2 liter of dot4 castrol through the brake system and bled them, glad I decided to get enough fluid for a full flush. The old fluid looked like freaking dark roasted coffee...

Also was able to finish mounting the engine, took about 2 more hours to get the 4 bolts in the front of the engine cradle. Then I hit the area under the sprocket cover with some degreaser and cleaned it up really well, and installed my header with a fresh tube of anti-seize.

Also filled the battery I bought with acid, then wired up the bike, installed coils and all that lame tedious junk. My slip on is installed minus the rear hanger, just gotta install the carbs/air box now. Should be able to get this thing started by the end of the week as long as nothing goes wrong.

Any tips for getting the carbs on the engine? I'm pushing HARD on them and they don't want to go in. Thought about getting a block of wood and the lining the carbs up and hammering the wood on the air box side of the carbs but I don't want to break the carb bodies by doing so..

Also, the exhaust mount in the pre frame sits about 3" in from the can, and the can is about 1" above the mount. Even if I find a way to mount the muffler, the rear peg will rub if the wifey is riding with me, might have to get some custom work done on the mid pipe. Post engine swap regret settling in now
Still need to:
Install carbs/air box
Clean gas tank, buy gas cap
Get the countershaft sprocket nut off the old engine
Sync carbs and set idle
Buy body parts/cosmetic stuff (mirrors, rear chain guard, new footrests, windscreen, bar end sliders, hand grips, and paint)
Possibly (probably) rebuild the front forks

[Poody]

Installing carbs is making me want to sell this whole project. Spent like 3 hours getting the carbs and air box together and then trying to install them onto the intake boots. Then gave up and took the airbox off hoping it might be a little easier. It's not. Tried lubing the boots didn't help. I'm pushing hard enough that the bike rolls, almost tipped it a couple times, almost broke my face on the cross brace above the engine. 4 hours of on/off work and all I got done was tightening the oil drain bolt. FML

[shpielers]

The clamps on the boots are loose...right?

Taking a hair dryer/heat gun at low temp to the boots for a few minutes will warm them up and make them more pliable. The carbs really shouldn't be very hard to install.

...they are oriented the right way yeah? Butterfly plates facing the engine, slides facing the rear?

[Poody]

Yeah. Hair dryer may not be an option due to my garage not having an outlet. Frickin apartment complex..

And yes, fortunately I am intelligent enough to match big airbox holes with the air box and little butterfly holes with the intake boots :P
The clamps are loosened to the point that the screws are nearly falling out, and I hit the carbs and boots with copious amounts of wd40. The boots are fairly hard compared to a standard rubber coupler. I'm able to individually slide the #1 and #4 carbs in at an angle, but then I can't fit the others, and as soon as I try, the carb body pops out :/

Taking the 6 speed out of my cluttered, over engineered VW was the most annoying and difficult thing I've done mechanically, and I've done a handful of timing belt jobs, BMW m3 tranny work, turbo builds etc. I would gladly change a couple clutches on my car rather than dealing with this ATM...

Never before have a worked on something that should be this simple for so long and made no headway...

[92xjunker]

If they are that hard, you should consider replacing them. It could prevent air leaks that you won't know you have till start up. And have to replace them anyway.

[Poody]

So, should I be using the boots off the pre 600 since I'm using pre 600 carbs on a post 750 or will that make a difference?

Edit: The carbs line up with the boots almost perfectly, but I found a post by krey that said carb spacing on 600/750s is slightly different, so I'll throw my 600 boots on and see if that works

[Poody]

600 boots did the trick.

Got everything installed, filled with oil, set up a temporary fuel source, and got the old girl running yesterday. I was quite surprised to be honest, engine was sitting for 3+ years, and I've never worked on a bike before, so for it to fire up first try was pretty awesome.

Only ran it for about 30 seconds because a loud can reverbs a lot in an enclosed area and I didn't want to attract undue attention at 5:30 in the morning.

Couple things I'll need to address: carbs a spilling fuel everywhere. The fuel hose is sealed properly, so I'm not sure where to check for leaks. I'm sure it will be obvious with carbs off the bike. Also idled at 4-5k, smoothly, but still very high. I turned the idle adjust screw back a bit and will see how it runs today when I sync the carbs.

After the carbs are set up right I get to start playing with the body panels and try to make her look good again. Man I'm so stoked to have this biatch running finally