cushion lever metric fasteners

[arsenic]

(someone asked me what a cushion lever is, a cushion lever is that part that bolts to the frame that the dog bones bolt to. all these fasteners are for the rear suspension)
If you're doing any modification to the rear suspension, it is a good idea to switch all the fasteners to grade 8.8 or higher bolts, and nylock nuts. Here's a list I put together, this is for a 98+ 600. Bolts will work for 98+ 600 and 750. It is possible that they will work on the pre 98's, but that is your responsibility. This list is accurate for 98+ rear suspension bolts. The washers are on there are because the OEM nuts are flange nuts, and if you're using a nylon lock nut, you can't find flange nuts, at least I couldn't. Just use the nylock nuts with a washer. Also the OEM hex bolts have a flared head, the after market grade 8.8 metric bolts just have a hex head, use the bolt and a washer.
I found all the fasteners at www.boltdepot.com
(BTW, item # 7276 are 120mm long, OEM are 125mm long, but the added 5mm is not going to effect the outcome.)

Item # 1 (x2) = M10x1.25-52mm(OEM) Grade 8.8 item# 6315 = M10x1.25-55mm (M10 washer on both)
Item # 2 = M14x1.5-125mm (OEM) Grade 8.8 item# 7276 = M14x1.5-120mm
Item # 3 = M14x1.5-62mm (OEM) Grade 8.8 item# 7270 = M14x1.5-65mm (M14 grade 10.9 washer item# 7745)
Item # 4 (x2) = M10x1.25 (OEM and Grade 8.8 item# 6890) (M10 grade 10.9 washer item# 7743 with grade 8.8 nylock nuts)
Item # 5 M14x1.5 item# 6894 (M14 washer item # 7745 with item #5 on #3)

As you can see in the photo, the M14x1.5-120mm bolt without washers has plenty of area. It is side by side with the OEM bolt and nut, and the grade 8.8 bolt with the Nylon locking nut has the same distance from head to nut as the OEM. The nuts both nylon and OEM are hand tight on the bolt, they are not torqued to spec, just tightened by hand.

As you can see in this picture, the grade 8.8 bolt and nut with the OEM spacer and dog bones, has plenty of room. Part # 62317-40C10 is item # 8 or 13 on the microfiche.

This is a side by side photo with the OEM M14x1.5-62mm and grade 8.8 M14x1.5-65mm bolt. As you can see, even with the washers the after market has plenty of area.

Here is a side by side image of the OEM M10x1.25-52mm and the grade 8.8 M10x1.25-55mm bolt. As you can see even with the washers, the after bolt has plenty of area.

This is a photo of the after market bolt, nut, and washers in the rear shock, with the OEM spacer, plenty of room to torque the nut.

[KatanaSoldier]

Nice stuff Chris. Thanks!

[arsenic]

I needed them, so I figured if anyone here needed them they won't need to figure all that crap out, I already did.

[KatanaSoldier]

Good looking out.

[GytRDunKat]

wtf is a cushion lever

[arsenic]

yup, he's the one that asked me what a cushion lever was.
Sorry sometimes I forget everyone isn't a Suzuki tech.

[GytRDunKat]

ok, that's the beauty of IM, now I look like a dumb ***!! But I really didn't know what a Cushion lever was, I thought it had something to do with the seat. I had no idea what flange nuts and Nylon nuts had to do with that!!

[The CyberPoet]

It's ok, he picked my brain to get the answers for this thread

I picked up the bolts & nuts when I did my ohlins install at my local mom-n-pop Ace Hardware store. The online pricing he listed is about the same.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[arsenic]

I ordered all the nuts, bolts, and washers I have listed here, I'll let you know how it goes when I get them.

[ctandc]

As for these working on the pre 600 Kat...since I'm waiting on parts, I'm going to go pick up some new stainless bolts tonight.

I can tell you this.

The Top and Bottom Shock Bolts should be the same on Post and pre 98's. Unless the thread / pitch changed, because they are the same length. 52MM

#6 / #7 in the diagram should be the same as well (62MM length from OEM) this is where the cushion lever bolts into the frame of the bike.

The one bolt #9 that connects the two cushion lever rods (dogbones) to the middle hole on the cushion lever looks to be identical as well.

The only difference I can see ( I will post with positive answers once I get my new bolts) between pre 98 and post 98 600 is that on the pre 98, the dogbones are very different. On a pre, each end of the dogbone bolts into different sports on the swingarm, and they each have spacers / bearing assemblies inside the end of each dogbone. The post98 does not have that according to this diagram. So the pre 98 would need TWO shorter bolts (and nuts) to secure the top of the dogbones to the swingarm.

[wcj]

I just did some looking and these should be the same parts for a 750 too.

At least the cushion lever shows to be the same part number from Ayers.

[arsenic]

The only difference I can see ( I will post with positive answers once I get my new bolts) between pre 98 and post 98 600 is that on the pre 98, the dogbones are very different. On a pre, each end of the dogbone bolts into different sports on the swingarm, and they each have spacers / bearing assemblies inside the end of each dogbone. The post98 does not have that according to this diagram. So the pre 98 would need TWO shorter bolts (and nuts) to secure the top of the dogbones to the swingarm.

100% correct

[ctandc]

Alright this is crap. Can't find anything locally. The hang up is the 14mm x 1.50 (fine thread) so I think I'm going to convert over to the closest standard size since they are available everywhere. Here's a quick rundown for the pre-98 Kat 600 (I'm going to assume the pre-98 750 is the same).

Top Shock Bolt = M10x1.25x52mm
Bottom Shock Bolt = M10x1.25x52mm

Cushion Lever Rods to Swingarm (there are two of 'em) = M12x1.25x52mm

Cushion Lever Rods to Cushion Lever ( Qty=1)
= M12x1.25x100mm

Cushion Lever to Frame (Qty=1)
= M14x1.5x62mm


6 Bolts in total for the pre-98

Good Luck finding that M14x1.5(fine thread) anywhere locally. I even hit up a local fastener shop, and even he said it's an odd size.

Well since NONE of these bolts actually thread into anything but the nut, and they all fit loose inside the sleeves (so the bearings can easily turn) I'm seriously considering buying the closest standard bolts, as they are easily found in 8.8 Grade w/ Nyloc nuts as well.

Here's the breakdown

Bolt diameter:



14mm=.551"
1/2" = .50"
9/16 = .5625"

1/2-13 is coarse thread
1/2-20 is fine thread

9/16-12 is coarse
9/16-18 is fine

12mm=.472
7/16= .4375

7/16-14 is coarse
7/16-20 is fine

10mm=.3937"
3/8 = .375"

3/8-16 is coarse
3/8-24 is fine


Bolt Length:

62mm=2.441" so 2.25" or 2.5" depending
52mm=2.047" so 2"
100mm=3.94" so 4"


So does anyone think that this will cause a problem?

I'm not seeing how it would matter since the difference in diameter is so small, and the bolts only thread into the nut itself anyway.

Feedback? Opinions?

[arsenic]

yeah, the M14x1.5 is a fine thread metric fastener. Not many place have big metric fasteners, especially with a flared head. Thats why I posted that website, you can't find them locally. Swapping to standard should not be a problem.

[ctandc]

So I stopped by the local Ace hardware and ended up getting all new bolts. Grade 8, I just had to get coarse thread instead of fine thread. Even scored lock nuts with nylon inserts.

Got the fender eliminator / license plate / turn signal mount fabbed up out of sheet metal. Still need to smooth it out and get it painted.

I'm gonna go out and start bolting the suspension together tonight. Hopefully my caliper piston kit will come in tomorrow so with any luck I can have the bike going tomorrow night.

Weather is supposed to decent next week at least.......