how do you take apart our chains?

[tonmarchelli]

im going to replace my chain pretty soon, how do you take it apart without having to buy the chain breaker? or is it possible. thanks for the input.

[arsenic]

well, just take the swingarm off then you don't need to break the chain. Or, look for a masterlink in your chain, you may be able to just take it apart at the master link.

[md86]

Hacksaw'll work . Did it with my project bike . Dremel'll work too , but really the hacksaw's quicker . The/a tool (some tools are dual-purpose)will be needed to put on a rivet-type master link , though .

[xbubbax]

i hacked my OEM one off with a dremmel tool, and then bought a new chain with a master link.

if wour doing a chain upgrade, do the chain and sprocket, and dont worry about your OEM chain its junk anyways thats why your putting a new one on, unless your trying to make a new MR T pimp chain

[The CyberPoet]

Hack saw, Sawzall, dremel with cutting wheel, hand grinder, steel file, even a jigsaw can work. Either cut through the sideplates or get rid of the mushroom head on the link so you can remove it.

KNOW THIS:
Masterlinks are 35% weaker than standard links, and as the saying goes, a chain is only as stong as it's weakest link. The strongest chains are the endless chains (like the OEM one), but they require you to remove the wheel, etc.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[stevnmd]

KNOW THIS:
Masterlinks are 35% weaker than standard links, and as the saying goes, a chain is only as stong as it's weakest link. The strongest chains are the endless chains (like the OEM one), but they require you to remove the wheel, etc.

A true endless chain would require you to remove the swingarm, not just the rear wheel...

Rivet links are the only way to go. Rivet links are 100% as strong as the rest of the links in your chain. There's no way I'd use a clip link. So, to say that endless chains are strongest is not true... As a matter of fact, there's absolutely nothing wrong with having multiple rivet links in your chain if need be. (Usually due to breaking your new chain too short during installation and not realizing it until it's too late.)

[The CyberPoet]

A true endless chain would require you to remove the swingarm, not just the rear wheel...

True that (thus the etc.)

Rivet links are the only way to go. Rivet links are 100% as strong as the rest of the links in your chain.

Actually, Robert Palmer, US support rep for DID, said that rivets are about 95% of the strength of the endless chains -- but that the 5% difference is acceptible difference in the bigger picture once you factor in not having to remove the swing arm. There's a good read on this topic in the May '05 Rider magazine, which includes feedback from DID, RK and AFAM.

I concur rivet-style solutions are the way to go on the Kats.

KNOW THIS:
Many manufacturers make multiple chains in any given size (in addition to link-count differences); for example, DID makes 6 different types of 530 chain. In the article, Palmer goes on to explain that it is important to match the chain to your need -- for example, a GSXR750 and a 'Busa both take a 530 chain, but not the same spec 530 chain.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[stevnmd]

Are you referring to tensil strength? If so, I'd agree that you need to buy a chain suitable for your machine.

For instance, my Tuono came stock with a 525 chain. All of the DID 525 chains, with the exception of their top of the line race chain which runs $180 are not suitable for the torque output of my bike. However, RK makes two different 525 chains that are suitable. I went with the top of the like RK which is stronger than the top of the line DID and cost significantly less.

Also, there are 520 chains out there with greater tensil strength than some 530s... So, yes, I agree that you need to make sure that the chain you buy is suitable for your machine.

[HIEXWIFE]

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