[Kfreak]

Now I'm really pi**ed! Tore the bike down, pulled the plugs, put the plug wires on and grounded the plugs. All plugs are firing. All the bowls are filled with gas. Carbs are sync'd. Plugs back in head and #4 still friggin runs cool. Now WTF!

[Newbie2it]

I was running into this same intermittent problem, tho mine would occasionally float from Cyl 4 to 3, Like tag teams. I cleaned the carbs multiple times and occasionally it would solve it for a bit, then it would reappear. The bike was overtly lean at the time. The plugs were looking as new as out of the box clean. Anyhow, jet kit later problem still occurred, just not as often. I replaced the pilot jets totally new on all four and since I've never had an issue. Its been over 6k since I did that and I've not had the problem reoccur. Maybe its coincidence, I'll never know, but its what I experienced. No rust in the tank and everything else is clean. But it was the same way prior to replacing the pilots. In fact, that was the only thing I did at the time, Just replaced the pilots, didn't clean the carbs again and replaced the o-rings on the synch ports at that time, now that i think about it.

Just a thought.

[Kfreak]

Here is what I did today. Cleaned again. Bike started and #4 fired. After about 5 mins. there it goes again. 1,2& 3 fire great. #4 keeps dropping off. I'm going out again to take the carbs off and I will look at the pilot jet.

[Kfreak]

Any explaination???

Went at it again. Fired up the bike and about 5 minutes of heat up time, there she goes again. # 4 drops off. Let the motor cool and start it up again. As soon as it gets hot #4 drops off again. All electrical checks out to be fine. Any ideas????? This has me stumped. By the way, the pilots are fine.

[Kfreak]

More food for thought.

Well I did all the cleaning. I even went as far as taking a garbage wire tie and fished it thru every possible air orifice. Within the first 5 minutes... #4 fired. With choke off and running at an idle #4 cooled down. I set the choke for the bike to run at 3000 rpm and #4 fired. Next step is to turn the idle up to 3000 rpms and see what happens. Can't do it now I gotta go. Hey, it's fathers day. This will give you time to think about this. Is it carb's or electrical??? I'm at a loss.

[Dexter]

Well I did all the cleaning. I even went as far as taking a garbage wire tie and fished it thru every possible air orifice. Within the first 5 minutes... #4 fired. With choke off and running at an idle #4 cooled down. I set the choke for the bike to run at 3000 rpm and #4 fired. Next step is to turn the idle up to 3000 rpms and see what happens. Can't do it now I gotta go. Hey, it's fathers day. This will give you time to think about this. Is it carb's or electrical??? I'm at a loss.

If it's only your #4 going cool and the problem corrects itself with the choke on, I think it's safe to say it's carb related. I suggest you tear them down and send them in to be sonic cleaned. Reassemble with new parts (o-rings, jets, needles, etc) and have them tuned/synched professionally (unless you have the tools and the know-how.) Carbs 101 is very helpful too.

[arsenic]

I don't think a shop will do any better then you have. Get new pilot jets, even tough you SAY there fine, try it and see

[SleeperKat]

I haven't read the entire thread but I'm thinking coil. Here's why:

Intermitten electrical problems can be caused by heat. You said you do a carb clean and then the bike runs fine for 5 minutes then starts givving you issuses again (after sitting running with the coils enclosed above the head).

When you removed the coils and checked them they we good, they also had time to cool (removing the fairings and tank).

An easy process of ellimination on this is to mark which side of the coil controls #4, then switch the 2 coils on the bike.

If the same coil possition goes cold after warm up you know its the coil. If #4 goes dead again its not the coils (could be the wires still though, switch them with the coils if they're long enough)

Good luck! Keep us posted.

[arsenic]

you don't loose 1/2 a coil, if 1 and 4 were both cold then I'd agree. But if it's only #4, it's not a coil.

[Kfreak]

Here is the latest update.

I raised the idle to 3000 rpm's with the idle screw. The #4 pipe stayed cool. Set idle back to normal.

I raised the rpm's with the choke to 3000 and #4 got hot.

I let the bike run long enough on each test to make sure it wasn't an electrical associated problem. No cool down time and she was HOT.

I did the spray bottle test to make sure the pipes were hot. I'm still blaming the carb's. I refuse to give up until I get a solution and give every one a thumb's up that it's running on all 4.

[SleeperKat]

He said #1 and 4 started to go cool.

If I remeber correctly they are the same coil. (I am 7500 miles from my Kat though)

Its just a suggestion that costs nothing. Move the coil and wire over, if the problem moves you know its the coil. If it doesn't then tear down the carbs.

[arsenic]

no he didn't READ he's having an issue with JUST #4.

[SleeperKat]

You work in a shop, you of all poeple know sometimes electrical does weird stuff.

Maybe the resistance to 4 is greater then 1 so he's getting a cold spark.

Maybe the short is from the #4 wire contact or in the wire itself.

I just don't see why the heat is enriching the cylinder to the point it cools off.

I didn't put in to get into a war of words. It's a no cost SUGGESTION, thats it.

Insanity is doing something the same way over and over, expecting a diffrent result.

He has tried the carbs with no real change. What would it hurt to eliminate the coils and wires?

[arsenic]

You work in a shop,

that's right, thats why I KNOW it's not a coil.

[Kfreak]

Quick change here.

Can you gap a JR9C plug? I always thought they were pre set. The plugs that I have are the multi fire type. I really don't like them.