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Wiring and Electrics Questions, answers and posts pertaining to electrical mods and problems

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Old 06-26-2017, 10:16 PM   #21
92xjunker
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You say no spark....that tells me the pulse generator is the problem. Weak spark would be a voltage issue.
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Old 06-27-2017, 05:41 AM   #22
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Did you check voltage with a multi meter while testing the bypass?

An electrical fault could be drawing down the power when you engage the starter. A bad connection in the starter for example. A starter in need of rebuild. That would draw down the power even with a good battery or a jump source because it's a massive over draw.

Verify the coils are getting 11v+ before dismissing that as an issue.

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Old 06-27-2017, 08:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92xjunker View Post
You say no spark....that tells me the pulse generator is the problem. Weak spark would be a voltage issue.
Yes i did check that the signal generator has correct resistance and also tried another signal generator off of running bike

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Originally Posted by Kreylyn View Post
Did you check voltage with a multi meter while testing the bypass?

An electrical fault could be drawing down the power when you engage the starter. A bad connection in the starter for example. A starter in need of rebuild. That would draw down the power even with a good battery or a jump source because it's a massive over draw.

Verify the coils are getting 11v+ before dismissing that as an issue.

Krey
Yes the voltage remained the same when i did the test direct from the battery and i also used a car boost. So im going to check the starter for voltage drop

Last edited by Blackbandit; 06-27-2017 at 08:05 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:40 PM   #24
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What do you think about bump starting it?
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:20 AM   #25
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What do you think about bump starting it?
If you can bump start it fine, but not with the starter, then you definitely have a voltage leech issue somewhere, and I'd guess that was the starter system.

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Old 06-29-2017, 08:30 AM   #26
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You changed the ignition box, was it the same part number. Those boxes are not interchangeable you need the same part number.
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Old 07-01-2017, 08:09 AM   #27
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You changed the ignition box, was it the same part number. Those boxes are not interchangeable you need the same part number.
Yes the cdi part number matches up

I have a really good mechanic comming to look at the bike.. ill keep you guys posted if he finds anything

Last edited by Blackbandit; 07-01-2017 at 08:09 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:02 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Kreylyn View Post
Your first post mentioned you already replaced the CDI. Did it not have one, or was it expected to be the issue to start with?

Does the bike have an original OEM ignition switch being used, or has it been modified or tampered with? Many of the newer model bikes require a specific resistor in the switch to trigger the CDI / ICM to trigger firing the coils. Some cheaper china made aftermarket switches for example don't have that, and so you end up with everything appearing to work but the bike won't fire the coils to run. It's a security / anti theft sort of feature.

If that's the case, the aftermarket control module should by pass that feature, or ... put a OEM switch back on it.

No way to test CDI / ICM with out replacing it, not at a reasonably priced option anyways. Most shops no longer have testing equipment, and it's either a lot of $ for one or you need to have a lot of know how with electrical equip to build one. The swap with known good is the most commonly used choice.

Krey
Update*
Found the problem.. it was the ignition switch. I guess those cheap electical switches are not worth buying.. i sure learned a hard lesson about cheaping out on parts. Straight oem from now on!
Thanks for everyones help on this you guys are great!
Happy riding!

Cheers!
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