[The CyberPoet]

Things to know:

(A) Stock for your bike is 15/47 for a 98+ Kat 600, 15/45 or 15/47 for 98+ Kat 750 (most 750's were 15/45 stock it would seem).

(B) Anything that makes the chain go around a tighter circle wears the chain faster. Thus, it makes more sense to go up in the back than down in the front, if you're replacing both anyway (i.e. - if the difference in cost isn't a major issue). Going up in the back will require a longer chain -- 1 extra link of length per extra tooth at the rear.

(C) The pre-made tables for amount of change and notes about the install can be found on my website here:
Katana - GSX600F all (& some GSX750F) 47-tooth basis sprocket tables
AND
Suzuki Katana GSX750F 45-tooth basis sprocket tables

(D) Anything that changes the relationship between the output sprocket of the tranny and the actual ground speed affects the speedo on the 98+ models, including tire size & sidewall height, sprocket tooth counts. There are two electronic correction kits on the market (see my webpage above for links to the YellowBox and the SpeedoHealer); there is a third solution that's cheaper but not as flexible -- printing a new decal for the speedo dial to correct for the factor.

(E) The bike comes from the factory about 9% off at the speedo, given the stock tires (partially a legal requirement). Some brands of tires tend to correct that (Metzeler Z6's in the stock 150/70ZR17 bring it back to under 1% off after initial tire growth; this partially because that tire measures out to be 159/61ZR17 after mounting & tire-growth on a 4.5" Kat rim).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

(B) Anything that makes the chain go around a tighter circle wears the chain faster. Thus, it makes more sense to go up in the back than down in the front, if you're replacing both anyway (i.e. - if the difference in cost isn't a major issue). Going up in the back will require a longer chain -- 1 extra link of length per extra tooth at the rear.

Yup . Just go up 3 in the back in lieu of -1 in the front . I was -1 front for a couple years , and my chains always seemed done prematurely ( like a year ), and I was FANATICAL about lubing & cleaning the thing .

[il_ragazzo]

um.... im riding a 94 600 ...does anyone know if i can use the same sprockets as a 98+... cause i can't seem to find anything that says 89-97 on it ... and how long do i want it??
is there a brand that is generally the industry standard??

[arsenic]

98+ 600 is 15/47 pre 600 is 15-45 or 14/45. There's a lot of places that have that combo. RK chain and Vortex sprockets. They come in a set.

[ThAzKat]

http://www.dc-afam.com/dc-afam/usa/products_transmission_dc_kits.html

afam is oem. rk has a kit for the pre

Can't find chain/sprocket kit for a pre 600?? here are two just from chaparral
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chap...t=False&GiftID=
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chap...t=False&GiftID=

[arsenic]

HS2020 sells stuff from Sprocket Specialist or some chit now. PM him. I looked at those sets that Thazkat posted, and you really, really don't want an aluminum rear sprocket. That top link he posted, that will work, but the RK/Vortex kits, you don't want that.

[The CyberPoet]

...you really, really don't want an aluminum rear sprocket. That top link he posted, that will work, but the RK/Vortex kits, you don't want that.

+1 on not using aluminum on as heavy a bike as a Kat -- no sense in spending more $$ to get far less life when the weight difference is insigificant due to a 510 lb (+ rider & gear) bike... Plus aluminum requires oiling about three times as often to stay lubed correctly (most oils are polar-bonding, which means they will want to cling to ferrous-metals like steel, but won't want to cling to aluminum).

Note that RK/Vortex combo-kits are available as both aluminum and as all steel-based solutions. The ones I order for my bike off bikebandit are steel all around. Obviously, in this case you need to read the descriptions closely and may want to double-check with the vendor before ordering.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[arsenic]

Note that RK/Vortex combo-kits are available as both aluminum and as all steel-based solutions. The ones I order for my bike off bikebandit are steel all around. Obviously, in this case you need to read the descriptions closely and may want to double-check with the vendor before ordering.

Agreed, the RK/Vortex kits are awesome, but you have to make sure the rear is steel. You have like a 50/50 shot of getting aluminum.

[MECHANICALMASON]

Thanks Arsenic, for the replies to some of my posts. I find your comments very helpful. You definitely know whats up. Sorry for being a prick on the red headed thread.

Cyberpoet: You also are like the guru on this stuff. It is nice to have knowledgeable people spreading the truth. Alot of people act like they know something about what they are talking about (but don't), causing people to get hurt or lose (waste) money by following their instructions.

One big question that I still have is if I go 3 or 4 teeth up in the rear how many links do I need to add to the chain. The chain is brand new and at it's minimum adjustment now. How do I go about adding the links to the chain? Or do I skip the stupidity and opt for a kit/chain that is the right length.(seems like a waste though)

[arsenic]

well, the stock gearing for your bike is 15/47 with a 118 link chain. If you add teeth on the rear it's 1 link per tooth,. but chains can't be an odd # of links. If you go up 3 that would be 15/50 and the chain should be 121 links, either a 120 or 122 chain should work. If you go up 4 teeth, it would be 15/51 with a 122 link chain A chain the correct length certainly. You never, ever add links to a chain, you only make them shorter.

[md86]

There's actually a formula on the back of the sprocket package , and it was posted here before . SOmeone else wanna see if they can find it ? I'm tired ....

[arsenic]

CP has it I'm sure

[md86]

You're gonna make ME do it , aren't ya ? ....

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=70042&highlight=sprocket+formula

4 pages . I KNOW it's in there somewhere . I just saw it . Put on your reading glasses , kiddies ....

[The CyberPoet]

well, the stock gearing for your bike is 15/47 with a 118 link chain. If you add teeth on the rear it's 1 link per tooth,. but chains can't be an odd # of links. If you go up 3 that would be 15/50 and the chain should be 121 links, either a 120 or 122 chain should work. If you go up 4 teeth, it would be 15/51 with a 122 link chain A chain the correct length certainly. You never, ever add links to a chain, you only make them shorter.

+1

If you go up three teeth, you'll need to go up 4 links (because they come in pairs in terms of length, no odd counts). The right answer is a new chain. The cheap answer is a extra links and another master link, but I can't recommend going that route for a couple reasons:
(A) Sprocket teeth and chains wear together. Putting an used chain on a new sprocket (or visa versa) will wear the new item very quickly.
(B) The weakest link of any chain is always the master link. Having two weak links doubles the risk needlessly.

If the chain is in good nick, I'm sure you can find someone to buy it on eBay, esp. at this time of year when lots of guys are in their garages fixing up beaters for spring-time sale. That'll help pay for the new one that's the right length to start with.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[il_ragazzo]

ok if i buy a chain and sprocket kit do i have to asseble my own chain?? and if so how many links do i need for a stock 94 600? and do i need special tools to remove links??? how does this work???