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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
this is the place to talk about the heart of the beast!


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Old 09-09-2017, 02:21 PM   #51
Kreylyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heeltoeclutch View Post
To be honest, I am not sure - I suspected this little mark on the pan on the left side of this picture to be a drip, but from inspecting the carbs I could not determine any residue on the bowls where it would've had to have dripped down:



I'm going back to the house today and will check again. When I checked them yesterday it had been 3 days since starting the test and the fuel in the lines had barely moved - I finally got some clamps for them. This makes me think we might be okay...?
I would think so. If no pools or puddles, fuel isn't flowing through... I think you would be good.

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Old 09-09-2017, 05:31 PM   #52
Heeltoeclutch
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I would think so. If no pools or puddles, fuel isn't flowing through... I think you would be good.

Krey
Welp just confirmed. It is day 4 and no pools or puddles. Still fuel in the lines, although it has dropped some. Im guessing some has evaporated.

I can hardly believe we are at the end of this saga. Thank you so much everyone for your help, especially you Krey! This has been a fantastic learning experience. In the next couple days I will put them on the bike, and see if it will run for the first time in 2 years!

BEFORE STARTING THE BIKE - I have read it is good to turn the engine over manually by turning the rear wheel while in gear to coat the parts in oil. I suppose I can try this before torquing the new plugs down.

Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-09-2017 at 05:41 PM..
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Old 09-09-2017, 06:04 PM   #53
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You can either do that, or turn the motor over like you're doing a cable adjustment. Remove the front brake ( right) side engine cover, and turn the timing rotor with a big wrench that goes over the outside of the nut (not an Allen wrenches in the inside of it). If it's in neutral, it will turn the engine easily. It has to be in a certain direction (is clockwise vs non clockwise) and I do not remember which it is, but it is easy to do. Just 5 (maybe 6?) bolts to remove the cover.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:53 AM   #54
Heeltoeclutch
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Originally Posted by shpielers View Post
You can either do that, or turn the motor over like you're doing a cable adjustment. Remove the front brake ( right) side engine cover, and turn the timing rotor with a big wrench that goes over the outside of the nut (not an Allen wrenches in the inside of it). If it's in neutral, it will turn the engine easily. It has to be in a certain direction (is clockwise vs non clockwise) and I do not remember which it is, but it is easy to do. Just 5 (maybe 6?) bolts to remove the cover.
Thanks shpielers - should I expect a torrent of oil to come out if doing this? Never removed an engine cover.

Edit: I am looking at the pictures for doing a clutch adjustment and it looks like a tiny little cover, not the large engine cover I am thinking of... (I am not with the bike currently)

Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-10-2017 at 02:22 AM..
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:57 AM   #55
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No gushing oil for this, maybe 2 or 3 drops.

Shit, NOT a cable adjustment, a VALVE adjustment. My bad. Said the complete wrong thing. Auto correct suspected as it just made that change again

Right side (sitting on it) engine cover, little guy about the size of your hand. Not the one with the oil site glass.
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