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The final word on the K&N RU-2922 Pod Filters

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  • #16
    with stock Katana cam shafts? It's Chris dude,
    Originally posted by kwebbel View Post
    I said it before and will say it again Cris.
    the Dynojet-kit WILL work on a Katana, I did run the dual pods stage-3 and it worked fine.
    Originally posted by ChrisRam View Post
    I am going to get some pieces primed and sanded tonight and when that is finished I am going to start taking a look at the jet kit that is already installed on here. Does anyone know of any reference images of the different kits or a way to tell one kit from another?

    Maybe I can post some pics of what I find and you guys can tell me which kit it is.
    I be happy to try. On www.motorcycleanchor.com there is an image of a stock needle and an Ivan's needle, and Ivan's looks just like a Factory Pro needle. So if thats not it, it's dynojet.
    Stock


    I thought this was Ivan's but it might be DJ, ask CP to clarify.
    Last edited by arsenic; 01-04-2008, 09:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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    • #17
      If it helps, this is what the head of a Factory Pro needle and main Jet looks like.
      Attached Files

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      • #18

        K&N and DynoJet are the same thing. All these picture are courtesy of the CyberPoet and motorcycleanchor.com

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        • #19
          Note the pics Arsenic posted from my site are 98+ Kat 600 needles. If you look at them closely, you'll see that both the stock and the K&N/DynoJet needles are very blunt compared to the Ivans. The FactoryPro needles are also very thin-tipped (like Ivans).
          I shoved those three needles in the scanner years ago to help people be able to identify their needles if they bought a bike and had zero clue if it was already jetted.

          Side Notes (some of which were posted elsewhere, but unlike some of my info, didn't make it to this thread):
          Ivan doesn't offer a pre-98 kit for the Kats. My preference for the pre-98's is FactoryPro. DynoJet tends to make poor products, IMHO.
          The K&N Filter advice that was quoted from me above referenced the 98+ Kats specifically; some users have found success using pods and complete 3rd party exhausts with various brands & types aftermarket jetting on the pre-98's, but expect to spend quite a bit of time post-install tuning to get it right, if it's possible with your particular set-up. So set-ups work, some don't. My advice there for the pre-98's is to contact someone who already has it working and duplicate their exact set-up to save yourself nightmares.
          Note that Kwebbel's bike is bored-over, increased compression, tweaked in a dozen different ways away from stock. I have no clue if he ever tried the stage 3 solution on a truly stock 750 engine and had success (maybe he can elaborate further).

          Cheers,
          =-= The CyberPoet
          Remember The CyberPoet

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          • #20
            BTW, this will not be "the final word" on K&N, it will get posted again in like 2 weeks, I'd bet money on it.

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            • #21
              oh, i hear that chris, right next to the "what the biggest tire i can fit" thread

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              • #22
                Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                Note that Kwebbel's bike is bored-over, increased compression, tweaked in a dozen different ways away from stock. I have no clue if he ever tried the stage 3 solution on a truly stock 750 engine and had success (maybe he can elaborate further).

                Cheers,
                =-= The CyberPoet
                I did (several times.)
                The problem with a stage-3 Dynojet kit is that people have the wrong expectations.
                If someone asks me overhere to install a stage-3 kit I'll allways ask in return what's he/she is aiming at with the bike.
                If you're only into trackdays, racing, high-paced railing and ONLY such and you want every little bit off extra top-end you may need/use a stage-3 kit, BUT if you allso like to tour, commute and such you'd better stay away from a stage-3 kit, it's NOT meant for that!
                The problem is that most noobs will choose for a stage-3 kit blinded by the promise for 10 to 15% extra ponies forgetting they will be compromising low-end and midrange rideability.
                In the end they will return and complain on the Dynojet-kits as being poor design and quality, which is simply not true.
                Use a stage-1 kit and you'll find it as good/better than an Ivan's or Factory-pro kit.
                As a matter off fact I'm sure there's no one_size_fits_all kit for a specific engine like Ivan's promises, seen too many different settings for the same type engines.... must be a mildly tuned averaged setup. (hold your horses! I'm not stating that's bad, just saying one may/will achieve better results while tuning a bike individually using an exhaustanalyzer, thermometer and dyno)

                reason why copying someone elses setup is a bad idea, big chance is you won't achieve the optimal setup, too many variables in parameters


                @CHris
                that's with stock-cams. (the higher-longer lift off the gixercams where you are prolly aiming at will only ease things since they provide better respiration)

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by kwebbel View Post
                  @Chris
                  that's with stock-cams. (the higher-longer lift off the gixercams where you are prolly aiming at will only ease things since they provide better respiration)
                  Yeah, that's what I was getting at

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                  • #24
                    i got pods to work well on a pre98 kat 750. the engine was stock. I have posted up many times my setup. As for not being a stage 2, like md said there isn't, but the directions in dynojet says like 114 main jets for stage 1 and 140 and 144 main jets for stage 3, so what the hell are the 120, 126, 130 jets for in the kit, so that is what i call stage 2 and in between.

                    You can get it to work. First and formost you need to get your carbs in top notch condition, replace orings, emulsion tubes, all the stuff worn. Then do the exhaust, and then jet kit with the pods. you don't need a heavily modified engine to get it to work.

                    it is late, i wil try to find my other posts for you.

                    “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

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