[Dr. Acula]

Noob

Hee haw, I got called a noob. Hey mr.pleasant, just Google " heavy carburetor float". Don't bother to apologize. Now back to the problem. Perhaps before you pull the clutch cover, pull the slave cover. I laid mine flat on a 5 gallon bucket, put a #2 Phillips screwdriver on the back of the slave and put a lot of pressure on it, then actuated the lever. It easily pushed up the slave and didn't sink down. Seemingly it proved my hydraulics were ok. I then went after the clutch pack

[92xjunker]

No, you didn't. Reread the statement. I wouldn't call you a noob unless you state you are a noob.
Same applies for a sinking float.

For the record: after talking to a few mechanics I use, heavy float is an old term. Used when a foam or cork based float absorbs fuel due to the break down of the outer varnish casing. It will never get the chemical removed from them thus, causing the float to be heavier than designed. And must be replaced.
Sinking float is when a modern hollow float, being brass or plastic obtain a hole and fill with fuel. Such as a katana Mikuni float. This can be remedied.

[cheetah64]

Thank you everyone for the input. I ended up finding parts to convert to a cable clutch very cheap and since the bike is already very far from stock, I took the plunge. Easy install and clutch pull is a noticeable amount stiffer as expected. Clutch movement seems back to normal but I haven't had a chance to take it out for a ride yet.

[katanarider]

I'm very interested in details. Please let me know how it works once you take it for a spin. Do you know exactly how much you trimmed the push pin ?

[cheetah64]

I ended up not trimming the push pin since I wanted to leave the system close to stock if the need ever arises to go back to hydraulic. It seems that adjusting a small screw on the actuator itself will give you enough clearance to use the stock push pin. I'll post some pics to better explain when I get home. Complete conversion with new clutch cable ended up costing ~50$ and taking ~30 minutes to install.

[cheetah64]

Here is the clutch cover from a 91 gsx600f that bolts directly up to the gsx1100f engine. Already fitted, it looks a little different than the stock cover and has a built in mechanical actuator. To the right of the shift lever was another bar for the gsx600f shift linkage. Since I wanted to keep the stock lever and position, I removed the shift linkages and removed the bar from the clutch over. It was pressed in and held on with a nut.


Now, I mentioned that I did not cut the clutch push pin. If you take a look behind the rubber flap covering the mechanical actuator you will find a bolt like this:


The outer nut is just used to hold the inner bolt in place. The inner bolt sets the starting actuator position. I backed out this bolt and then tightened it until I found a position that seems to engage the entire clutch pack and allow the correct clutch movement when the lever is pulled. This inner bolt has a precut slot for easy adjustment with a screwdriver.


Finally, I needed a new clutch lever so I ended up finding a $15 lever and perch at my local CycleGear. The lever does not have a clutch switch built in so that may be a concern for some. For a little bit more money, you can find a nicer lever with a built in switch. I ended up having to do some shaping on the lever in order to get the right clearance on the lever swing.


Overall conversion was not hard at all and only required 3 parts: a gsx600f clutch cover, a new clutch cable, and a new clutch lever with perch. I found my clutch cover on ebay, cable on amazon, and clutch lever at my local CycleGear. Again, clutch pull is much stiffer than the hydraulic so I do not recommend doing this on a daily driver unless you like the heavy pull. Also, my Katana's setup is a little easier for installing something like this. Prepare for a little bit longer of an install if body panels need to also be removed. Now I just need to finish rebuilding my dash and get back out there.

[katanarider]

So its not dragging any more ?

[cheetah64]

Nope, no more dragging. The wheel spins if the bike is in the air but shifting is back to normal and I can get neutral now with the clutch pulled and engine running. The bike doesn't pull any more when at a stop in gear and doesn't seem to be slipping either during riding. I did have to adjust a little at the lever to get it setup correctly.

[katanarider]

Thats great news !
There have been enormous complaints about clutch drag, yet no one ever really knows why. Your results have just put things into perspective...
Much Thanks

[cheetah64]

UPDATE!

Turns out this may not fully work. I took the bike for a longer ride this morning and found that in the higher gears the clutch was still slipping. I have been trying to adjust it to make sure there is no slip and no drag but it almost seems like the actuator is not able to press in enough. I'm unable to find specs anywhere but it could be that the hydraulic setup is used because it can provide a longer throw on the clutch.

I'm still trying a few adjustments but wanted to get my findings up here before anyone starts a conversion. I will update when I find out more.

[katanarider]

If I understood your method of the conversion, you used the stock Kat 1100 hydraulic push pin. I would measure it.
The last guy that did this conversion said he used a 100mm push pin and he is not having any issues. He also didn't have issues before the conversion either...so
EDIT: Or the clutch cable could be too tight. I believe your supposed to have just about a nickle coin thick worth of space at the clutch lever/purch.

[92xjunker]

Yup, he had to trim the pin down a couple mm.

[cheetah64]

I could cut down the push pin but the actuator start point is fully adjustable. I would think because of that I should be able to use the longer push pin. If it comes down to it, I will cut/replace the push pin.

I could also try a different lever, I may not be getting a fully throw. My lever is touching the handlebar and the only way I can get the gears to not slip is if the clutch is dragging.

I know my clutch is still ok because I can adjust the clutch lever to where the clutch grabs completely but still drags when the clutch lever is fully pulled.

Either way, I'm going to spend some more time looking at it when I get home. Will update when I do.

[cheetah64]

Just got in so I was not able to go for a ride but I did manage to move the perch further from the handle bars and swap on a different lever. The new lever seems to give me a better throw and after readjusting the clutch cable everything seems to be good with the stock push pin. I was able to find neutral and shift easily with the engine running. Will have to take it out through the gears tomorrow to make sure its back to normal.

[cheetah64]

For anyone still wondering, the bike is back to normal after the shift lever change. When warmed up, the bike doesn't pull, I can find neutral while rolling and have no problem shifting gears. The clutch no longer slips in high load situations (hard acceleration in high gears). I have put almost 200 miles on the bike since and still going strong. Thanks again everyone for the input.