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Howto - Plastic repair

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  • #31
    very nice job : you should build up a kat and go for kotm or koty

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    • #32
      This forum makes me happy I picked a katana over the other options for a beginning biker. I bought a semi-lemon 2003 Katana 600. Based on what I have been told on a local sportbike forum it seems like poor maintenance. My father crashed the bike trying to get it home from the guy I bought it from, so I will have to replace a broken signal generator cover, and fix my right fairing. I'm actually excited about the damage as it will force me to learn some things now that I would have to learn later and learning outside of a classroom is one of my favorite things.

      My question though, is anyone willing to noobify this a step further for me and list the tools I need for fairing repair. I imagine I need to get a new dremel, since I don't know where mine has gotten to. I see that photo that showcases the use of a battery drill with what I imagine is something for buffing. I will look myself, but when it comes to anything like this, I don;'t knwo what to do. What grit sandpaper do I use. Are there powertools that I can use to cut the time down or is hand-sanding a necessity.

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      • #33
        Lord Fusor

        Anybody has some word on Lord Fusor bumper repair? I've heard is good, but wanted to ask my people from Katriders b4 I go ahead and get it. Thanks

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        • #34
          If it's bumper repair it is probably going to be too flexible. You want an in between stiff and flexible.
          Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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          • #35
            Are any of these two part plastic adhesives sold at major auto parts stores?

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            • #36
              repair

              All I used for my repairs was fiberglass resin and premium bondo. I got my stock colors from Color Rite. If you apply several coats of base and then sand it out to achieve som crack or defect fill. You can also use epoxy primer. The key is to have your base coats smooth for the clear lacquer. The final cut with 1200 -1800 grit and then buffing coumound will smooth minor imperfections. I had some major defects in the side shown in the picture. I also strategically placed the stripes so if I have a soft lay down I can easily patch and paint (knock on wood). NOTE: dont use the aout parts store paints-they will not hold up to gas and oil .

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              • #37
                I repaired some cracks and a three inch hole using legos and acetone. Legos are made with ABS plastic similar to that used in the fairings. ABS dissolves in acetone, however as far as I understand it does not change chemically. The dissolved legos form a thick goo (add more or less acetone to adjust consistency) which dries very quickly.

                I sanded down to bare plastic, and applied it in layers, letting it harden overnight. The goo bonds to the fairing because of the acetone.That morning I sanded the rough spots in the paste and painted over it. No problems so far. The cracks are holding up too.

                If you're wondering how I got the goo to stay in the hole, I put duct tape over the hole on the inside of the fairing. Peeled right off in the morning.

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                • #38
                  i want to use bisonite from bison for some cracks.....and i want to know if someone repaire with this thing....
                  Attached Files

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                  • #39
                    I would have used fiberglass and bondo but after reading this thread I'm going to rethink it. Thanks guys, great thread!
                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110816

                    1994 GSX750F Katana with:

                    Michelin Pilot Road 2's, 120/70, 150/70,
                    Race Tech 1.0kg springs with 25mm preload,
                    R6 rear shock w/14.3kg Eibach spring,
                    1" Soupys bar risers, Zero Gravity windshield,
                    RK GXW Gold Chain, My own fender eliminator,
                    3BBB turn signal mirrors,
                    Black painted seat and rear trim,
                    Nelson-Rigg CL-135, CL-150, CL-950.

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                    • #40
                      i just used a old soldering iron and some old broken fairing pieces and soldered it in the crack

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                      • #41
                        Yah plastic welding is very cool.

                        I just repaired a Colman Canoe and it came out fine.
                        The crack was down the entire side, like five feet to eight feet.
                        http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110816

                        1994 GSX750F Katana with:

                        Michelin Pilot Road 2's, 120/70, 150/70,
                        Race Tech 1.0kg springs with 25mm preload,
                        R6 rear shock w/14.3kg Eibach spring,
                        1" Soupys bar risers, Zero Gravity windshield,
                        RK GXW Gold Chain, My own fender eliminator,
                        3BBB turn signal mirrors,
                        Black painted seat and rear trim,
                        Nelson-Rigg CL-135, CL-150, CL-950.

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                        • #42
                          nice work..ive done the same..

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                          • #43
                            wow zombie thread for no reason lol
                            1992- project katfighter
                            2005- GSXR750
                            2001- TL1000R
                            http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111130
                            www.lunchtimecigar.com



                            KATRIDERS RALLY 2014 - cintidude04
                            KATRIDERS RALLY 2015 - cintidude04
                            KATRIDERS RALLY 2016 - cintidude04

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by hardlydangerous View Post
                              Thanks

                              You don't want to use a flexable plastic repair on HARD plastics like the fairings.

                              I recommend Versa Chem epoxy plastic weld system or Permatex 84115 PermaPoxy 5 minute Plastic Weld (both are the same thing really). It's not nearly as brittle, stays flexable to some degree, is easy to work with and bonds perfectly with most plastics with proper prep.

                              I have used the Plastix repair many times as well in the past but find it cures a little to brittle. Many times I have needed to adjust, tweak or drill and had the parts break or crack again.

                              Almost every single mounting tab, mounting post or threaded plastic hole on this bike was broken or missing even the thumb operated choke lever was broken off at the base. So I had to completely make them from scratch then shape and drill them and install clips etc.
                              For the choke lever I drilled a tiny hole into the base and threaded in a small screw into the base, then built up the epoxy around the screw. Once it was dry I filed and shapped it. The choke is fairly hard to pull/push on that bike but the epoxy holds up just fine. Saved me lots of $$$ to.

                              I plan on making a smooth dash, seat cowl and maybe even a hugger as well. I'll post then as well when the time comes, should people want to make their own.

                              Do you use this for the small surface cracks/scraps?

                              Will regular bondo ad-heir to the plastic properly?

                              What do you suggest? For something like, this:
                              Attached Files
                              My Bike/Project:
                              http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=114782

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Has anyone ever tried Q-bond the stuff is incredible. sets in three seconds
                                sand-able fixes metal, plastic fills large voids etc. If you have a hole, put a piece of tape to cover the hole
                                then you fill the hole with the powder put the liquid activator on it then two seconds later pull the tape off
                                the hole is filled. THIS STUFF IS INCREDIBLE



                                check out this link

                                [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Bond-Repair-Small-Bonding-Adhesive/dp/B003YI421I"]Amazon.com: Q Bond Repair Kit Small Quick Bonding Adhesive: Automotive[/ame]


                                ant
                                Last edited by anthonygsx1100; 02-26-2011, 06:16 AM.

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