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GSX1100F Project - Streetfighterish

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  • #16
    So I've got most of it wired up, can't for the life of me get the tacho to work though.

    Should it be as simple as powering the unit on and connecting the tacho wire or is there something I'm missing?

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    • #17
      Can't help you much there. There's been a few people with tach issues in the last 2?3? weeks. Use the search function and look for those threads, might find something useful in there. They weren't 1100 specific, but still might be helpful.
      1998 Katana 750
      1992 Katana 1100
      2006 Ninja 250

      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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      • #18
        Yeah took a look around the forums but couldn't find very much of use.

        Funny thing is, connecting the tach wire to the speedo wire shows a speed reading so it must just be a pulse same as the reed switch will be for the speedo once It's installed.

        The (terrible) manual for the new cluster shows the signal is meant to come directly magneto, where this is coming from...something else? From reading it could also be expecting a negative pulse from the tacho rather than the positive which is provided according to the manual. I'm a little out of my depth on this one.

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        • #19


          new indicators, you wouldn't believe how expensive these are locally here. $50AUD per indicator without fork mounts.

          Set of 4 off ebay for $30.

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          • #20
            I've got the same exact set. Haven't used them yet, but I have them.
            First motorcycle - new project
            1992 Suzuki GSX600F Katana

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            • #21
              They're a bargain if they hold up well, will post some pics when I install them this weekend.

              I'm thinking of going without the tacho for the time being, just to get this thing on the road.

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              • #22
                Went to install the indicators but wanted to get the top triple tree on first.

                Can't for the life of me get it to fit on, goes over the forks but the centre piece won't go back on...looks to be slightly out of alignment. Is there anything I should be loosening that might help me with this?

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                • #23
                  Pic might help.
                  I'm replacing the bearings on my stem tomorrow or Monday, I can let you know what works for me
                  1998 Katana 750
                  1992 Katana 1100
                  2006 Ninja 250

                  2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                  • #24
                    it's this hole here the protruding piece that goes into it does not want to go. It's sitting a few mm out so the top is touching it.



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                    • #25
                      Probably the clamp lock is a little tight. Have you tried to open it up any?


                      Krey
                      93 750 Kat



                      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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                      • #26
                        I'm guessing clamp lock is the clamp that's going over the centre piece?

                        I've got a screwdriver in there and tried to pry it open a little. Might need to find something a little stronger though to give it some more pressure.

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                        • #27
                          Spent all day bleeding the clutch/brake systems so didn't get mine removed, but I did take a look - don't see anything else other than the clamp lock that it might be.

                          When I was working on the forks a couple weeks ago it was it was a bit tricky to get the 2nd fork in, prying the clamp opening at the triple wide enough did the trick. Used a small pry bar to open it wide enough to get the tube in. Should work fine for you too, same idea. Although you might have to remove the tank first to get the proper leverage. Screw driver started bending enough that I gave up in favor of the pry bar. I had way more access working on the forks, so bit sure if taking off the tank is necessary, but I had better luck prying directly apart than perpendicularly apart if that makes sense.
                          Last edited by shpielers; 10-26-2014, 10:39 PM.
                          1998 Katana 750
                          1992 Katana 1100
                          2006 Ninja 250

                          2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                          • #28
                            Yeah I know what you mean, I'll try with tank on and remove if I have to.

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                            • #29
                              got it on, thanks for the advice. pushing it down had created a little metal lip around the hole. Had to file it back a tad then used a screwdriver(pry bar was too big) to get it open.

                              Got the indicators on today. Need to work out wiring, I can get them to power up but they only have 2 wires / don't flash. I'm assumig the indicators on the kat have built in relays and I'm going to need to add flashers?

                              Something like this: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...pid=6154#Cross




                              and yes, I can't concrete for my life.
                              Last edited by knk; 10-29-2014, 03:24 AM. Reason: pics

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                              • #30
                                There's always something to delay me.

                                This time had to make up another little bracket for the rear indicators.



                                [URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/kkemeridis/media/IMG_20141029_194333_zpsd927f75a.jpg.html]

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