[kmbphoto]

For what it's worth, our USAF technical orders for the aircraft that I work on, (I'm paraphrasing of course) call for the upper range of a torque spec when you cannot torque the nut, and therefore must torque the head of the bolt.

Example

Torque axle nut between 90 ft/lbs - 100 ft/lbs; normally you'd set the torque wrench to 95, unless you have to torque the head of the bolt, in which case you would set the wrench at 100 ft/lbs to compensate for the friction of the bolt rubbing on what ever surfaces it must pass through.

[Tmod]

For what it's worth, our USAF technical orders for the aircraft that I work on, (I'm paraphrasing of course) call for the upper range of a torque spec when you cannot torque the nut, and therefore must torque the head of the bolt.

Example

Torque axle nut between 90 ft/lbs - 100 ft/lbs; normally you'd set the torque wrench to 95, unless you have to torque the head of the bolt, in which case you would set the wrench at 100 ft/lbs to compensate for the friction of the bolt rubbing on what ever surfaces it must pass through.

OT a bit but what aircraft you work on there?

Tmod

[kmbphoto]

Tmod, I work on the KC-135R/T Stratotanker, I gotta say, I love the tanker world.

[Wild-Bill]

...I'm also no engineer even though I get to to play one at work sometimes. So input from a real engineer can be valuable....

I'm not an engineer, either but I have met a few. They're weird.

Seems to me that kmbphoto just hit on a "best practice".

[thetable]

This is all really interesting but nobody seems to be noticing that if you place the (axle) bolt through the swingarm, spacers, wheel, caliper mount and adjusters and then try to turn it without the nut on it at all there will be resistance--measurable as torque.

Lets make it even easier, next wheel you swap out, back out the bolt instead of the nut, and then try to convince anyone that the nut doesn't spin off the axle much more easily than trying to spin the axle out of the nut.

I got it...

[teddy]

How much torque? In all seriousness, I highly doubt this is even 1 ft lb of resistance. Nitty gritty engineering, yes. Beneficial to Joe Schmuck homeowner that doesn't know you're supposed to calibrate a torque wrench every year? Pointless.

you are also assuming Joe Schmuck has a torque wrench 'worth' calibrating...

Torque wrenches are overrated anyway.

totally...I usualy just tighten **** by hand til i hear myself go 'click-click'


I have nothing too add, this thread is awesome.

[Tmod]

Tmod, I work on the KC-135R/T Stratotanker, I gotta say, I love the tanker world.

Cool I rode home in one of those from Seattle to Edwards, Laying down in the refueling lounge if you want to call it that, Damn tight fit. The ground looks a wee bit different looking straight down at it.

Was stationed at Edwards on the A-10 & F-15 Test Teams.

Tmod

[girlykat]

did anyone see the beginning of this thread?

2 of us still have an issue with the rear tire...

[thetable]

did anyone see the beginning of this thread?

2 of us still have an issue with the rear tire...

Did you read the replies? Did you post any pictures? Did you try anything?

i had a very similar experience with the chain.... I also noticed something odd....

I could tighten the rear axle bolt's nut more than it should be....the cotter pin slots on the nut don't have the hole inbetween but behind the nut?!?!

Can it be over tightened??

i followed the diagram on bikebandit and don't think i am missing any spacers or washers...but i didn't think the bolt was as tight as it should be and i was already past the cotter pin hole in the nut(cotter pin hole in axle is behind the nut, not within the nut slot)

Missed that, I take back my smart ***... Kind of... I'm guessing you have crushed the part that the chain tensioners attach to that go inside the swingarm, if you have them at all. The other possibility is that you have the wrong axle, or it has been over torqued repeatedly and has actually stretched.

[Kreylyn]

If the axle is over torqued and the bike put into use that way, there are several things that can/will happen. Bearings can wear, swingarm forks can deform, aluminum parts can score or wear.... all making 1-3mm in excess space.

Generally... to resolve the issue, you need to remove the entire wheel assembly and do some serious inspections. You may need to replace bearings (3 of them in the rear assembly), inspect the spacers, make sure the wheel and carrier are not showing signs of wear. Also inspect the swingarm arms for deformation. The arms should have a hollow rectangular shape. Those sides at the axle slots should be flat... not curved in towards the inside. The chain adjusters should easily move in and out, and through the full range of the alxe slot with the alxe in just the swingarm/adjusters.

If you find any issues with the above things mentioned, it can cause the problem your having. Most of the problems are a simple fix... but should be fixed.

Krey

[kohnerbownerr]

What I'm gonna try first is just replacing the chain, because I need to do that regardless at this point. anybody got a favorite brand chain? and is it worth buying the tool to install em myself?

[kmbphoto]

DID chains are used from the factory, most people agree these are very good chains. I would replace the sprockets when replacing the chain as well.

I bought my chain breaker/riveter from cycle gear for 35 bucks on sale last year. They might have a sale going on, just keep checking, I know I saw the same one for like 45 last month.
With that said, before I had the chain tool, I used a motion pro chain presser(15 bucks). and a ball bearing/bb, I worked fine, and the rivets were perfect, slightly more difficult than the actual rivet tool though.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CG4Q8wIwAQ

I might still have the motion pro tool still lying around, I'll take a look, if I still have it I wouldn't mind shipping it to you.

[kohnerbownerr]

If you could that would be terrifically helpful. the factory chain is 530 and 112 links correct?

and I don't think I'm going to replace the sprockets, from what I can tell they're not too bad. and I don't want to spend the money on em when I know I'm selling the bike next season.

[kohnerbownerr]

The local shop also told me they could replace the chain for $150, including parts and labor, which sounds pretty good now that I look at chain prices. hmm

[thetable]

Depends on what kind of chain...