[katanarider]

Congrats! And you're welcome.
Having been dealing with washers as spacers...now that you know the width you need, I'd visit that machine shop again and have them turn some spacers so you don't have to worry about lining up all those washers every time you pull the calipers. That's on my to-eventually-do list.

I thought about that too.
On the other hand, since I've not riden the bike due to carbs and needing a battery; I'm a little concerned I may need 1 additional spacer per bolt. I have ever so slight drag while pushing the bike about 10 feet for the photo. I'm not sure if its because I just bleed the brakes and the disc are a little rusty, or if I got the spacing slightly off. You know when you tighten the bolts it pulls the washers tighter together/takes slack out. Therefore, either the inside brake pad is slightly off/too tight or like I said, its a combo of bleeding & rust. It did feel as if it started to roll easier as I was parking it after the photo, so I think its ok. I'll probably try riding it around the yard this weekend if I can jump start this old battery again. Non the less, shouldn't be a big issue.

[shpielers]

Grade 8 (hardened steel) washers should compress/deform less. If it is a spacing issue, might be something like half a washer difference and you need to grind/sand one or two down a half mm.

[katanarider]

Update rivet spacing begins here.
Ok folks, I got a little hasty yesterday and didn't check the rivet spacing as well as I should have...Give me a break, I just didn't have the time or energy yesterday, so lets catch up here.
Now, I took 4 different pictures of the rivet. Each picture has a edited copy in which I used Microsoft Paint to make notations with a arrow or circle to point out the problem area. I numbered the pictures "Rivet1A, Rivet1B, Rivet2A, Rivet2B and so on. I didn't want my MS Paint drawings to block the actual photo, so the first pic of each set you can zoom in to see the original...example: Rivet1A=original
These pics should be high resolution; you may have to zoom.
Pic1/Rivet1A

Pic2/Rivet1B=MS Paint

You get the idea ???
Rivet2A

Rivet2B

Rivet3A

Rivet3B

Rivet4A

Rivet4B


Now that you've seen the photos, let it be known that these pictures come from the worst side of the caliper. In other words, one side of the caliper has a tad bit more spacing than this side. Its either due to the fact that the caliper is made with one piston larger than the other, or because its mounted at a angle on the fork leg.
Non the less, I believe that taking a grinder (or a Dremel tool) and shaving the high spot off the brake pad will give enough room for safety (Disclaimer: This is my personal opinion, not fact/Build and ride at your own risk!). The purpose of this update is to make you all aware of the problem, so if you get hurt don't blame me because I'm warning your ass now.
katanarider pauses, gulp ...
Ok, I'm back. FYI, it appears as the brake pad wears the problem will only get worse because the metal back plate will eventually come very close to the rivet. I've circled one of the metal tabs that hangs down in pic 4B; thats what I plan on grinding, plus a touch of pad material as a precaution.
If someone wants to try the Tokico 6 pot calipers that may work as a direct bolt on because the pistons are slightly smaller. However, the caliper itself is longer which means it will probably hang off the disc. As long as its not too ugly, I think it may be a better alternative. This is all in theory of course as its not been done as yet. I can tell who ever decides to try it first, you're going to need the correct master cylinder for those calipers. Even these 4 pot Nissins are sort of mushy since my swap, so heads up.

Oh, and shpielers...its rolling fine now, no problems there...yet !
I myself would do a bit of slow test riding today if I could.

So fellas, I'm going to have to pay off some major bills and attend to personal matters before I buy a Dremel tool. So until next time, you guys play it safe !

[shpielers]

Didn't run into that particular problem on my build.
You: gen 1 bandit wheel, pre kat rotors, bandit caliper
Me: 91 gsxr 750 wheel, pre kat rotors, gen 1 bandit caliper. You use gen 2 bandit calipers? Or maybe the fork mount point of the '88 is slightly lower than the 89+

[katanarider]

These disc are post-98. I ran these disc on my pre-Kat which is a 600cc and the wear pattern looked the same.
As for the calipers, I did a part number search before I bought them. I'm pretty sure they're all the same.
Just looking at your pictures, it seems like your pads rubbed the disc pretty close to the rivet too; it looks shiny.
Maybe I'm wrong

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133371&page=8

[shpielers]

Close to them sure. Don't contact though, have a few mm to spare. Maybe the difference is pre vs post rotors? Just cause they're swappable doesn't mean they're identical...

[katanarider]

Agreed
Mine appears to have a few millimeters as well when I'm crouched down looking at it.
I've had to re-check it a few times and take photos to come to my conclusion. I had all day and night to think about it, that's what lead me to re-check it a few times to make certain. The pictures, or looking at it from below the bike/under the caliper seem to tell a more serious story. I think I may buy a single 6 pot caliper instead of a Dremel tool. I've compared the two brake pads and the Tokicos look slimmer.
EDIT: Oh, and after reviewing your disc and some consideration, I'm going to take a look at my 600 spacing tomorrow for piece of mind.

[katanarider]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger. I hope it turns out to be worth it, but I bought some GSXR SRAD 600 calipers. They are Tokico 4 pots that look very similar to the Nissins but slimmer. They should ship Monday.

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/attachments/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/21565d1170284251-brake-calipers-gixxer-600-750-tls-suspension1.jpg

[katanarider]

The virdict is in...I have been liberated
Let the pictures tell the story...and justice for all..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BG1Ng2pU-8

Tokico inner brake pad notch clearance:

This picture shows how the Tokico brake pad has a curve in the middle which hangs down slightly more than the outer edges where the notches are located...No problem with clearance !

This picture is hard to capture with a iPhone, but its the outside of the disc and it shows the rivet spacing from the brake pad.

Here is the caliper on the bike and it shows the difference in the brake hose mount. I just ordered some brake hoses from a post-98 Katana; I hope they fit ok They need to be about 17 inches to work.

Here is a zoomed out picture of the caliper mounted on the bike just so you can see what it looks like.

This last photo is the outer edge of the disc. It shows how tight the clearance is between the disc and the caliper. Both the Tokico and the Nissin are identical here. They are both so precisely made that you may have to put one bolt in then work the caliper to get the other bolt to line up perfect, thats what I had to do.

[shpielers]

[katanarider]

EDIT: Error correction...Those are post-98 hoses, not pre-98.

I never thought I would ever say this, but thank god its cold outside. I'm so broke and busy with other things, I really need some time off.
As I told you last time, I ordered some post-98 front brake hoses. Well, a shady salesman on ebay ripped me off on the first set of hoses, so I had to wait for a 2nd pair to arrive. That being said, I noticed that the post-98 appears to have come with two styles of hose ends. The earlier style has a ball hose end and the later style is more flat like a thick washer. Its hard to explain, but the Kat 1100 comes with the ball type. You can see in the picture I had to mix the two because the Kat600 master cylinder hose is only 12 inches which is too short and the Kat1100 hose is 14". Yes, thats the post-98 fluid proportional splitter/router thingy. I decided to use the post-98 splitter because the post hoses are un-equal length, one side is 19" and the other is 20".

Here is the later style hose end from a post-98 Kat600.

Here is a better pic of what the hoses look like.

Here is the final side view pic.


Now its done !
I'm so worn out, I'm going to have a beer and catch up on some rest.
Later !

[92xjunker]

Why didn't you just go SS braided dual line. way better feel and they look good to boot.

[katanarider]

I got the post-98 Katana hoses for $11 shipped each. I had to buy two pairs, so grand total was $22. Plus, I don't like they way stainless steel hoses are stiff, they don't seem to flex well in my opinion. To reinforce my belief, I had to replace my el-cheapo china made rear hose with a American made one from Russell/Edelbrock. The china made one busted because the way I had it routed through the caliper torque arm brace wire hose holder. Any one doing the swap may encounter the same issue as I did if they decide to route it through that wire looking pinch/brace thing. I just zig zagged mine around that wire so when the swingarm moves up and down it doesn't shift the brake hose as much. I left my banjo bolts loose, jumped up and down on the seat so the hose shifted to what ever position it felt comfortable, then tightened the banjo bolts.

[92xjunker]

I put a vinyl hose around the line at that point.

[katanarider]

The china made hose and my Russell hoses both have a rubber covering of some sort. I think the china made one is of lesser quality though, I guess only time will tell. Stock brake hoses have fiber/cloth braid which undoubtedly bends better without question. If I would have known what I know now, I would have never bought steel hoses at all. This is my first time buying said product, maybe there are better ones out there I don't know.