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Go Back   KatRiders.com > Service Department > Bodyshop

Bodyshop Got a tweaked piece of plastic? Some roughed up paint? Here's the place to get some tips on repairing your Suzuki Katana.

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Old 08-05-2017, 04:25 PM   #11
Seft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrontime View Post
You could also polish and the anodize them like they would be done in a shop. Takes a battery charger and some battery acid i believe.... or water.... its been awhile but i know its cheap and dooable at home in a plastic tub..... https://youtu.be/2-lfHN23Iv4
There's a good kit I can get for doing it I've been looking into, will have a look at that vid link you sent too, thanks.

Not many resistant rattle can options so anodising is quite appealing!

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Originally Posted by 92xjunker View Post
NAPA sells a fuel/oil resistant urethane clear coat in a spray can.
Thanks, will check out if I can get it in the UK, not a familiar brand.

Last edited by Seft; 08-05-2017 at 04:25 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 08-05-2017, 07:55 PM   #12
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Yeah i uses to do this with a black dye when i would customize berettas for carry. Paint just added thickness and rubbed off till it would flake off. So we would dye and anodize them. You can get any color dye for aluminum as well so when you do enough to make it worth its very appealing.
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:52 AM   #13
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You need anodizing solution, standard dye will fade due to UV. The lower fork tubes are painted from the factory. Anodizing wasn't standard practice back then.
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Old 08-06-2017, 12:05 PM   #14
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The dye was a special dye from a company and it wasnt cheap or sold in small amounts. But as far as solution i think i remember just good old battery acid from the auto parts store and water. And for silver there is no need for dye. Any aluminum is better off having an anodized layer as the protective coating vs paint no matter age or grade. While acheiving the same end result, keeping air from reacting with the aluminum, at home painting is unable to be done in a time frame that keeps the aluminum clean enough for paint. Just my opinion. The big difference is that a scratch or chip doesnt cause a bubble, with paint its an inevitability.

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Old 08-06-2017, 01:20 PM   #15
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Not if done correctly. I paint aluminum almost daily. Spray paint over aluminum will chip and scratch off easily. Quality primer and prep is the key. Aluminum and acid is a major no-no. It will cause the aluminum to become brittle. I use vinegar (5% acid) just to remove oxidation, followed by a baking soda bath, then primer- with minimal time between the steps. Then you can follow standard paint prep. I found the a golf cart charger (48v) works very well for anodizing but, it takes a lot of prep to anodize aluminum without being splotchy in color.
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Old 08-06-2017, 01:54 PM   #16
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Dude, no offense. But maybe the reason you dont like your anodizing and prefer paint is because your doing it wrong. I know for a fact it requires sulfuric acid. Even something as simple as a wiki search will tell you that. Aside from the fact that ive used this exact method to reanodize beretta lowers. http://m.wikihow.com/Anodize-Aluminum i learned alot about anodizing when i taught myself how to blue guns as well. Both processes are basically a controlled form of corrotion to prevent an unwanted reaction with air. Either proccess only affects the surface of the metal no chance to get brittle.

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Old 08-06-2017, 03:19 PM   #17
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It's not a preference to me, I do what I want to do, what ever I feel would be best for the project. I have all anodized aluminum on my bike. I'm basing off my experience working on a few that I have done. The fork tubes do not anodize well, the foot controls and clip-on clamps do well. Not sure if the tubes are more pot metal or a different type aluminum but, they tend to anodize splotchy.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:33 AM   #18
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Ok got me interested as have been tossing up either painting or polishing But anodizing sounds interesting.

Now painting or polishing I don't need to take the the forks apart
Could you anodize them without taking them apart?

If the acid solution was just the right depth?
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:25 AM   #19
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In my opinion, if you have the forks off allready why not rebuild them as you either paint or anodize them. Taking them apart is the correct way to do the job either way. It keeps overspray down and takes the fork oil out of the equation. I wouldnt wanna try to dip a whole fork in acid and electricity anyways seems a bit unmanagable and dangerous. Whatever you choose, doing the job correctly give the best possible outcome.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:34 PM   #20
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A lot of the parts on the Kat are cast from white metal, not necessarily high aluminum content. Covers for sure, wouldn't surprise me the fork lowers are as well. White metal isn't going to give as good a color on anodizing the old way (electrolysis and acid). New methods are used now days that allow for "anodizing" on all sorts of metals and even plastics.

Hell, they even have spray on chrome now that actually looks like chrome.

As a hobbyist who has tried anodizing these exact Kat parts.... I'm gonna say it's not going to be an easy task for the avg person. Additionally you end up with a lot of hazardous chemicals that aren't cheap to dispose of.

Good luck with which ever path you pick.

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