[Superloki24]

I got the entire front end (forks, wheel, handlebars, brakes, bar controls, master cylinder, rear shock, and rear brake system) all for $1000 Cdn. There are cheaper versions out there for sure but I wanted an '08 so I paid the price for it. If you keep a good eye out on ebay you could get a front end for about $600-700 and a rear shock for about $125.

[Superloki24]

ThazKat,

Quick question, the taper bearing that needs to go on the top, you put a link in for it but I jsut want to make sure that it is the proper one to order first.....the guys around here say that bearing size doesn't exist....lol.

If there are any Canadian guys here that may know where I can get one I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

[ep87]

I just got the TWF bearing a couple weeks ago. I did the same thing and checked with the local bearing houses and they told me the same thing.
I beleavie TWF just buys a bearing and machines the outer race to fit the Kat/ SV neck and then charges $45
Richard

I just checked and thats correct the KML bearing interchange lists the bearing as a 30 x 48 and the outer race has been machined down to 47.

[Superloki24]

Does anybody know if the 99-07 Hayabusa front fender will fit on a '08 set of forks/wheel?

They look similar but I am having a hard time a good, cheap fender for my '08 swap.

[ep87]

Most of the after market replacement fenders show two different part numbers 99-07 and 08-09 model years. I'm using an early setup for my swap and have got a stock early fender. I could take some measurements if you like mounting holes etc. the diff. may just be the clearance for the early and late calper types.
Richard

http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Hayabusa_Front_Fender_p/hayabusa%20front%20fender.htm

[ThAzKat]

Does anybody know if the 99-07 Hayabusa front fender will fit on a '08 set of forks/wheel?

They look similar but I am having a hard time a good, cheap fender for my '08 swap.

No they won't, the 08 to present are completely different but are starting to look more promising than the prior ones. I just saw the other day on ebay, some fool wanted $2 for one bent 07 and earlier busa fork LMAO
I modified my forks to except the TL1oooR fender. this mod means having to take off some mounting points so it isn't a suggested mod if you want to turn back to stock.
Tmod, I have $600 in the frontend and $80 in the rearend for this swap.

[Tmod]

Tmod, I have $600 in the frontend and $80 in the rearend for this swap.

Have you ever ridden a Kat with emulators that were setup for the rider? Not talking just out of the box but actually setup?

Emulators and Springs + oil & seals is still far from $600.00, Chances are the Busa forks still don't have the correct springs for the riders weight, Yes there is a chance but there is a better chance they are not correct.

Yes the Hayabusa has more adjustments but let's be serious how many times after you have it adjusted do you get off the bike and twiddle with them? Do you stop at a turn out before a bunch of twisties and adjust them? My point is you can have all the adjustment in the world but unless you are doing track days once set they just stay where they are at. At the bike events that we have done I can say from experience that 90% of the street riders that adjust their own suspension are not even close to where they should be. I can also tell you that at track events the percentages are about the same. So what good does all that adjustment do if you don't know what it is supposed to be doing? I am not suggesting that you don't know what you are doing, I am just stating numbers from the events I have been to.

Back when Lee Parks was racing, He and the other riders on his crew had two bikes one setup with emulators (tuned properly) and the other with USD fork (tuned properly) The lap times of both bikes were identical, IMO if you take pro racers and put them on two different suspended bikes and they turn identical lap times I doubt joe street rider is going to be able to tell the difference.

Anyway if you do the Hayabusa front end for bling then by all means it does look 1000% better than the conventional kat front end. This post was not intended to crap on this thread but I just don't agree with TK when he states you can do this for less than a decent setup from Racetech for the stock forks.

Tmod

[ThAzKat]

I didn't post this to have a debate either Tmod. For the most part you are correct as for the adverage rider on the rode. In the same aspect, how many of them are on SS and shouldn't be, on the track and the street. I agree with the fact that most don't even know what Sag and Dive is. What a valve does in a shock or fork. One fact that many don't know is that a fork as designed shouldn't even work a suspension. No argument here on that.
As for the cost, lets add this up for the adverage Joe Rider. $200 plus shipped for the springs plus emulators, seals and oil. Then lets get real, Joe Rider isn't going to do the labor himself. I did this writeup so that Joe Rider can (I appologize if your name is actually Joe Rider. in no way do I want to affend Mr. Rider) do this mod on his own.
Tmod, how much is it for you to build my forks and mail them to me with springs, emulators and custom valving with the labor? Add doing the rear shock with custom valving and its labor? I will add another say um $400 labor to install all of this on the bike with new bearings and mods done so that the system is totally fit and finish, done!
By the way, and I am just saying, I weigh 230 now and will be 220 or maybe 210 by spring. what changes need to be done to springs, valving for the forks and shock?
Miss ya tmod LMAO
Thank you for your input for this needs to be known.

Must add this, I personally change my setup depending on if I ride 2up or solo. IMHO the setup should be like checking air in the tires, along with chain tension etc.

[Tmod]

TK,

The labor is irrelevant as you did that yourself and wrote this for the DIY, The emulators can be done just as easily as the entire front end. How much would a shop charge to graft on the Hayabusa front end?

You paid $600.00 for the front end parts including brakes, So knock some off for the brakes. For springs, emulators and seals (both dust and oil) and oil would run right about $265.00. But we need to keep in mind that the Hayabusa still may not have the correct springs for the rider, The stock Hayabusa has .85 spring so that would be good for a 130 Lb rider on a kat, So it seems the Hayabusa does not come with the correct springs for most kat riders. So let's add $95.00 for some spring for the Hayabusa forks. Is the Hayabusa now valved correctly for the rider and his/her style? Probably not. Yeah you can turn screws bit that does nothing for valving stack.

On the rear shock which I did not address in my prior post, The stock spring is 750 lbs/in and for your weight the correct spring is right about 900 lbs/in. Also if memory serves correct you purchased links to bring the back back down after installing that shock. That adds more to the cost, maybe that was included in the $600.00.

That is good that you adjust for 2 up riding, Makes the bike more comfortable and safer. Most don't do that.

On the subject of springs what is your rider sag with just you and the free sag with just you both front and rear?

Tmod

[ThAzKat]

At last check my sag on the front was around 38, which is high so yes I could make some changes on that. Solo for the rear is right about 35. I do have the front and rear rebound pretty equal visually. But I street ride and haven't been on the track with the bike and most likely won't be now.

The only money I have in the brakes is lines, pads and fluid. Thanks to my bro, gixerkat, I got the radial master and calipers free. my 2 largest cost were the wheel/tire and the forks/triples. a complete frontend means the wheel, fender, tire, triples, handlebar clamp, right and left forks, calipers, master cylinder, axle, hardware for all mentioned, rotors, bearings, spacers, brake pads, and bearings for stem. Mind you on a pre the gauges have to be changed also. Busa doesn't have a speedo drive on the axle.
I wanted this mod because of the look and performance and ebay helped with that. I like the setup so much I am going to do the same on a old 1981 GS1100 but go further with the spring rate etc.

TK,

The labor is irrelevant as you did that yourself and wrote this for the DIY, The emulators can be done just as easily as the entire front end. How much would a shop charge to graft on the Hayabusa front end?



Tmod

in this case it is since many don't have access like yourself to make custom valves etc. I know I don't!

[Tmod]

in this case it is since many don't have access like yourself to make custom valves etc. I know I don't!

Ummm I don't have custom valves, And if I did then whoever buys the emulators through me get's the revised valve free.

Tmod

[ThAzKat]

Ummm I don't have custom valves, And if I did then whoever buys the emulators through me get's the revised valve free.

Tmod

why couldn't you tell me that 5 years ago

[Superloki24]

I have a question:
I am going to be using the Hayabusa handle bars and controls for my swap, and I was just wondering if anybody has a wiring diagram of some sort that shows how to mock it up to the pre wiring harness?

By the way I love the way it is going together so far, here's a pic of the progress to date:

IMG_1104.JPG

IMG_1107.JPG

[ThAzKat]

I have a question:
I am going to be using the Hayabusa handle bars and controls for my swap, and I was just wondering if anybody has a wiring diagram of some sort that shows how to mock it up to the pre wiring harness?

By the way I love the way it is going together so far, here's a pic of the progress to date:

[ATTACH]19656[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19657[/ATTACH]

Looking good so far! You will need the pre diag. and the hayabusa diag. out of the manuals.
You can find those manual downloads on here just search hayabusa manual. also look at long term projects under suzuki katana talk on here. I know I have a diag. from pre to post controls on one of Mreedohio's threads. If you need more help with your search, I will do more to help ya later.

[Superloki24]

Ok so I got it all wired up today and everything works fine....well almost everything.

I can't get the low beam headlight to turn on when I turn the ignition on. I think the problem is in the right hand control module. I have a spare Orange/red wire that I am thinking is part of the problem. After looking for many hours at the two wiring diagrams (Busa and Katana) I am still at a loss.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,