Idle problem?

[jiver06]

I have posted before about my 91 gsx and have done some work since then.
My bike won't idle without the choke on.

I cleaned the carbs and replace the idle jets.
I replaced the spark plugs to the proper NGK DR8ES.
I test all electrical components and serviced spark plug caps.(GOOD)
Checked for all evap connections. (GOOD)

The only reason I can come up with that the idling problem can continue would be the following?

1.carb Sync needed

If anyone has any other ideas please....please let me know. thanks.

[Kreylyn]

I have posted before about my 91 gsx and have done some work since then.
My bike won't idle without the choke on.

I cleaned the carbs and replace the idle jets.
I replaced the spark plugs to the proper NGK DR8ES.
I test all electrical components and serviced spark plug caps.(GOOD)
Checked for all evap connections. (GOOD)

The only reason I can come up with that the idling problem can continue would be the following?

1.carb Sync needed

If anyone has any other ideas please....please let me know. thanks.

How did you clean the carb bodies? Specific step by step details is important here.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks or is that what you mean my "Checked for all evap connections. (GOOD)" ?

What are you setting the float heights to, and how are you checking this? Again, specific details instuctions helps here.

Krey

[Wild-Bill]

Do you have the right size jets in there? No telling what some numb-nuts POs were thinking.

[jiver06]

To clean the carb bodies I used 2+2 carb clean and compressed air along with pipe cleaners to get in the little areas. Not sure about the floats and what height they are at. The idle jets are the same number as specified in the service manual and as the old jets that were removed. I soaked all components in the 2+2 for about 2 hours and dried them with compressed air. And yes I had the bike running and checked all of my vacuum connections and everything appears and sounds as though it is nice and tight. I also did a wet test by spraying the 2+2 i around all evap point to watch for idle increase and there was no fluctuation.

[Kreylyn]

Pull the carbs again, remove the floats, main jets, and emulsion tubes. Concentrate on cleaning the fuel inlet hole between the pilot jets and the main jet/emulsion tube compartments. It's a very tiny hole about 1/4" in. It's not letting enough fuel through.

Krey

[jiver06]

Thanks man,
I will give it a try and see what happens. I'll keep everyone posted. I hope this works. I love to ride but I am very limited on funds so I must try and do it all myself....haha...seems to be my way of life I guess. Thanks again.

[jiver06]

K.....so I pulled the carbs and cleaned them again just to make sure or no debris. I had talked to an MMI grad and he was telling me to remove my air/fuel m screws, check float heights and float needles. My air/fuel screws are sealed on my carb bodies and as such I must drill out the cap.

Now...the location of the air/fuel screws eludes me since one exploded diagram has the located on the intake external side of the carbs but I see no sign of a cap.

The other diagram has them located under the top cap located internally on the carb bodies and during cleaning I did notice a small impression in the carb bodies that would leave me believe this is the proper location. I don't want to just start drilling into my carbs until I know for sure. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I have the Mikuni BST33's on my bike.

It is becoming very frustrating trying to get this bike to idle. It seams no matter what I do nothing is working. I don't have the money for a shop so I really must stay motivated. If anyone has a solution or knows for sure what will work please help me.

This is a list of all checks and balances:

Compression Test....Pass
Ignitor Test.....Pass (175 ohms)
Coil Test.....Pass (3.5 ohms)
Spark Plugs (NGK DR8ES)...New
Spark plug caps......re-threaded and cleaned.
Spark Check test....Pass
Vacuum leak test....Pass (Sprayed carb cleaner around all possible vacuum location and there was no change in engine speed)
Battery....New
Carbs Cleaned 3 times due to rust in tank....also new idle jets installed (Jet numbers match the old jets replaced)
Fuses and Fuse Block test.....Pass
Air Filter Element....Needs replacement
Exhaust Condition....Pass
Steering bearing.....Fail (Replaced with AllBalls Bearings and race)

I have an automotive certification and I am not a stranger to working on vehicles but I am at a loss of hope and motivation. Please HELP.

[Wild-Bill]

OK, if you've been cleaning your carbs but haven't gotten the AF screws out then you haven't been cleaning the whole carb. Pretty good chance that's your trouble.

Do some searching and you should be able to find photos of exactly where the screws are. There have been plenty of photos posted. They're on the bottom of the carbs, right by the output sides. Look for brass plugs (frequently look like aluminum but a scratch will tell the story) with a small hole in the center. That hole is pretty handy for starting your drill bit. I like using a drill press just to get some better depth control. Makes it really easy to avoid hitting the screws with the drill bit.

[TRPUT]

Air Filter Element....Needs replacement

And that won't be helping!

[jiver06]

Well thank you for everyone who helped me with this bike.

I cleaned the air/fuel mixture ports and screws including the float needles and the idle jet passage ways and she now runs with a consistent idle. No stalling.

Now the only problem i have left is that I have a loss of power during my ride. I can feel the bike surge sometimes but then the power is gone again.

I'm thinking its because the air filter isn't in the best shape as well as the carbs should be synced for sure because of all the work I did to them.

Anyone have any ideas I may have missed or think of anything I might have forgot to do?

Thank you all very much for your help I was very happy to have ridden my bike....I wasn't sure if it would ever happen.