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Fork Seals - Need to Pull Flat Brace?

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  • Fork Seals - Need to Pull Flat Brace?

    Hey folks,


    Perhaps this is a silly question - I am in the process of pulling my forks off to replace fork seals ('93 600 Kat). Got the wheel and calipers off no problem.


    In the epic stickied thread Squiggy made, he suggests to remove the flat fork brace the fender attaches to.


    My fender detached from that brace no problem - however the four bolts securing brace-to-forks are extremely tight, to the point I am worried about damaging the heads with an Allen wrench/bit.


    I don't think it is - but is it necessary to remove this brace to change the seals? (if not, just seems like unnecessary work...?)

    Also a bit concerned about the damper screws on the bottom and the Allen-headed clampy screws at the top (for the clip-on-esque grips). I am currently making an extended 6mm allen socket by cutting up a wrench, and will try penetrating oil, hammer-tapping and a cheater bar with that on these top and bottom screws - if those fail, I go to Home Depot and finally buy the impact I've been wanting... although I am a bit concerned about impacting Allen heads.


    Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
    Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 08-22-2017, 03:58 PM.

  • #2
    Don't strip those Allen heads under the forks! Go buy a 6" Allen socket, 6mm I believe, and a handheld impact driver. You don't need to smash on it, but a couple moderate taps should get it done. If you blow that Allen head out ur fucked. If you can get the impact driver on the flat plate, use it there too. Buy the impact driver. It's worth it's weight in gold. I got 2 or 3 of them
    My build thread (Black Betty) '97 600 (Dearly Departed)
    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133286
    2007 GSXR 750

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    • #3
      Impact driver on that bottom bolt is very helpful. I stripped one once, it was a bitch. Drilled the head, took the fork apart, and had to notch what was left because there wasn't enough for the vice grips to grip to actually pull it from the damper rod.
      1998 Katana 750
      1992 Katana 1100
      2006 Ninja 250

      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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      • #4
        Never had an issue with an impact and allens. As a matter of fact, I switch almost all bolts to allens on my bike.

        Make sure you remove any locking bolts on the threaded bolts for the handle bars. If you miss taking those off first, you will lock those bolts down with galled thread and they won't move.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
          Never had an issue with an impact and allens. As a matter of fact, I switch almost all bolts to allens on my bike.

          Make sure you remove any locking bolts on the threaded bolts for the handle bars. If you miss taking those off first, you will lock those bolts down with galled thread and they won't move.

          Krey
          Thanks guys - these are the top screws I am talking about. I don't think there any locking screws on these ones, and I think I have to pull these to pull the forks:



          Im not sure I could even get an impact gun on the flat brace screws since they are right up against the forks. However I think I can replace the seals fine without removing it.

          Glad to hear y'all have had good luck impacting Allens. I have destroyed heads and twisted nice quality allen wrenches, even with "proper" fitting sizes.

          I have a handheld impact driver, and can try that on the bottom screws - not sure it'll get into the top or brace screws but I can see. I've just been wanting a cordless impact gun forever but I'm cheap sometimes.

          Guess we'll give it a go and see what happens - finished my 6mm socket today so we'll try tomorrow.
          Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 08-23-2017, 01:42 AM.

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          • #6
            Welp guys y'all were right! The allen screws were able to take a good amount of torque.

            I didn't have much time to work on it tonight but I got the top screws broken free, and the bottom damper screws safely broken free. Thank goodness!



            Tried my handheld impact on the bottom screws - I wanted to break em free while the forks were still on so they were secure, however this didn't give much room to swing the hammer. So I gave them some taps with the allen+socket, and then they came free with a 3/8 drive socket wrench, no cheater bar needed. They actually required less grunt than the top clampy screws.

            Right fork started draining immediately. Left... didn't drain at all... which was concerning until I realized that was the one that was leaking. I guess it had leaked a lot Tomorrow gonna pull them off and see if I can get the new seals in. I hear I need 2"x2' ABS pipe + cap. Coolio.
            Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 08-24-2017, 01:40 AM.

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