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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
this is the place to talk about the heart of the beast!


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Old 04-21-2017, 03:06 AM   #1
Seft
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Default Help - Open engine neglected bike :|

Hi, I posted on here years back now when I started tinkering with the engine on my Kat and was having issues with setting valve clearances and there being excessive play in one of the rockers (from memory!) Anyway, life got in the way of me being able to put time into working on the bike and it's been left ever since. Now I have time to put things back together but I'm conscious having left the bike standing for years is probably going to have caused some issues. So what I'd appreciate advice on is what I should do before I put it back together, is there anything I will need to take apart/clean/replace that's likely to have got gunged up from being left alone?

One other thing I'd noticed before I dismantled things was that one of the down pipes was cooler than the rest so thoughts on what this could have been caused by would also be appreciated?

I'd appreciate any help and suggestions with this and I'm fully aware that neglecting it was a bad idea as was taking the top off the engine when I didn't have time to dedicate to it in the first place so no need to remind me of that

Cheers
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:43 PM   #2
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If you want to clean any gunked up parts, I've been told that Kerosene is a awesome cleaner. I'd guess taking the oil pan off to allow the cleaning solution to drain would be best, but you'd have to remove the exhaust to do that. The header bolts can be a pain in the ass if they're rusted really bad, so be careful and use some penetrating oil.
The cold down pipe could be several things, such as no spark etc... You really need to analyze it a little more to figure that one out. You should clean the carbs now, while the bike it partially disassemble and your motivated to get it back in service. Take the time to do it right and you'll be gald you did. If not, don't even bother to begin with because you'll just be wasting your time and mess something up more than you hoped for.
EDIT: When I say do it right, as with anything worth having...I mean be prepared to spend a little money. Don't be a total cheap ass here. If bikes where like bicycles, then every kid in the world would have one.
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Last edited by katanarider; 04-21-2017 at 02:46 PM..
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:16 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply! The exhaust is going nowhere, tried all sorts to remove previously, it may as well be welded on. As for the pipe, I was rushing when I posted, should have mentioned that the coils, plugs and leads are all fine so don't think electrics are to blame. I was reading through carbs101 earlier as from reading other people's posts they would probably benefit from a clean and there could easily be blockages too. Need to go through everything that's involved to understand what will likely need replacing when I do take them to bits as you mentioned it might cost a bit.

One bit that wasn't too clear was talking about drilling out a brass plug to get the carb bodies open, need to understand this part as it wasn't too clear from the pictures, drill, hmmm...

You mentioned kerosene for cleaning,what's the equivalent in the UK, any idea?
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seft View Post
Thanks for the reply! The exhaust is going nowhere, tried all sorts to remove previously, it may as well be welded on. As for the pipe, I was rushing when I posted, should have mentioned that the coils, plugs and leads are all fine so don't think electrics are to blame. I was reading through carbs101 earlier as from reading other people's posts they would probably benefit from a clean and there could easily be blockages too. Need to go through everything that's involved to understand what will likely need replacing when I do take them to bits as you mentioned it might cost a bit.

One bit that wasn't too clear was talking about drilling out a brass plug to get the carb bodies open, need to understand this part as it wasn't too clear from the pictures, drill, hmmm...

You mentioned kerosene for cleaning,what's the equivalent in the UK, any idea?
Kerosene, heating oil, diesel... all the same thing (just different grades/dye). Good for cleaning off grease or oil grime, also does a good job on brake dust.

Clean the carbs (fully clean, not just a spray or rinse off). Use a carb cleaning dip or other dip process. (not kerosene)

Check rubber components for stiffness/cracking or dry rot.

Change all fluids.

Krey
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:09 PM   #5
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The drilling out of the pilot screw block off plates (plugs) isn't really drilling them out. The pilot screws are hidden behind little inserts that prevent people from adjusting them. I guess you understand that part.??? Just some stupid thing Suzuki did from the factory. However, with the increased ethanol in gas these days, along with vibrations from the engine (when it did run) and varnish build up, they need to be adjusted at some point (During Rebuilds). Anyway, they're only about 1 millimeter thick (or less). If you drill down into them, you'll damage the pilot screw. You'll want to just widen the hole some how. The most common method is using a drill bit to enlarge the hole, but not exceeding the thickness of the block off plug. Once its large enough, take a large thread screw (wood screw) and twist it in with your fingers just enough to grab it, then wiggle the plug out. Use some lubricant if needed...I think they're brass (soft metal).
EDIT: I've used paint thinner to clean parts a long time ago. Can't remember the name of it, but I seen a video on youtube saying to use Mineral Spirits. I believe its supposed to be safe for rubber gaskets. Do some research and don't just take my word for it.

Last edited by katanarider; 04-21-2017 at 06:17 PM..
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreylyn View Post
Kerosene, heating oil, diesel... all the same thing (just different grades/dye). Good for cleaning off grease or oil grime, also does a good job on brake dust.

Clean the carbs (fully clean, not just a spray or rinse off). Use a carb cleaning dip or other dip process. (not kerosene)

Check rubber components for stiffness/cracking or dry rot.

Change all fluids.

Krey
Thanks, I've been reading through the carbs101 pages and the watching the video, sadly instead of working on the bike I had to spent the weekend clearing up my dump of a garage so there was space to take everything to bits in an organised way

As for rubber parts I found a post on here last week from someone who'd put together a list of replacement parts in a kit, can't find the post again so not sure if it was current or not though or if they shipped to UK. I figured I may as well just replace anything perishable once I have everything in bits regardless of it's state as it's not exactly a quick job taking this much of the bike to bits. Are there any recommend third party/after market suppliers worth looking at or should I always go with Suzuki's OEM parts? Only ask I wanted a replacement screw a few years back and the charged an insane price for it!
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Originally Posted by katanarider View Post
The drilling out of the pilot screw block off plates (plugs) isn't really drilling them out. The pilot screws are hidden behind little inserts that prevent people from adjusting them. I guess you understand that part.???
Yeah it just sounded like something that could go horribly wrong quite easily, do you know what clearance there is from the bottom of the plug to the screw underneath? Sure I'm just being excessively paranoid about this and sure it will be pretty straight forward when they're off the bike and I can see what's what!

Last edited by Seft; 04-24-2017 at 02:54 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:01 AM   #7
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K&L sells float needles and some other stuff. Its usually cheaper. I'd just cross reference and research before purchasing. Shit happens ! For instance, K&L sells two different sets of float needles for the Kat-1100. One is called the "Economy" set, which is a smaller than stock, but seem to work for those who've purchased them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seft View Post
Yeah it just sounded like something that could go horribly wrong quite easily, do you know what clearance there is from the bottom of the plug to the screw underneath? Sure I'm just being excessively paranoid about this and sure it will be pretty straight forward when they're off the bike and I can see what's what!
Not much clearance at all ! Be Extremely Cautious !
You may be able to just tap them to knock them side ways, then pick them out EDIT: If you try knocking it sideways you could jam it down and make it harder to remove. Stick to the usual method, its proven. I've always read people hollowing out the hole slightly, then picking at the hole till they pop loose (which is what I did too) .

Last edited by katanarider; 04-24-2017 at 03:12 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:46 PM   #8
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Ok, so I've been looking around for replacement gasket and o-ring sets to replace the ones in the old carbs once I get them to bits and all the kits come with the a replacement float valve kit too, no one's mentioned replacing this and my haynes manual doesn't talk about it being a likey target for replacement either. So, why's it included in the kits?

This is the kit I was looking at: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/g...oat_valve_kit/

There are also kits that have extra rings in like this one: http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/inde...roduct_id=2856

...and why do screws for this bike all seem to cost about 4 each!!!!!?
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:16 PM   #9
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You mean "float needle"? Should come with the kit. I wouldn't skip that, you'll be back doing it again if you do.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92xjunker View Post
You mean "float needle"? Should come with the kit. I wouldn't skip that, you'll be back doing it again if you do.
Yep looks like that's what it is, there are two bits, presumably the other bit is the valve assembly the float needle goes into. Turns out pricing up the OEM rubber parts separately would cost me far more than the kits anyway. All being well should be able to order parts at the end of the month and get started
Thanks for your help so far!
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