2001 Katana with 1400 miles. When to do the first Service?

[solidfish]

I purchased my bike about a month ago with 1100 miles on it. Its a 2001 600. The bike is in excellent (nearly new) condition and its first service check has not yet been done.

Being a 2001 with 1400 miles, when would you recommend I do its first service? Anything in particular I should check?

Also, would anyone know the recommended tire air pressures?

Thanks

[BobKat2002]

Personally, I'd have had the first service done before I put another mile on it. Especially since the bike is 5 years old.

Change the oil and filter now, at least.
Then get the first service inspections done ASAP.

Tire pressure is 34 Front and 32 Rear. I believe.
More for two up riding.

[solidfish]

will do it this weekend, thanks!

[solidfish]

any recommendations on where to get oil and oil filter. Manual says to use only SUZUKI brand filters. Has others been doing this?

Thanks

[TheCandyman]

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/Katana/index.html

Go here, You will learn anything you need to know about your katana.

[solidfish]

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/Katana/index.html


Go here, You will learn anything you need to know about your katana.

Thats very nice site. THank you very much

[TheCandyman]

Your welcome. Its CyberPoets Site. I belive he sells whatever you need or if your in a hurry you can purchase whatever you need from a Suzuki Dealership.

[woobie]

If you check out this link

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/trinc/images/pmc.jpg

You'll see your due for

Brake lines
Fuel lines
Tires
brake Fluid
Fork Oil

Even though it's got extremely low mileage it has 5 years ageing on all the parts so a few things should be replaced.

Tire pressure is 34 Front and 32 Rear. I believe.
More for two up riding.

It's should be 33 Front 36 Rear AFAIK.

[The CyberPoet]

The bike desperately needs an oil change and really should get the full 600 mile service ASAP.

Based on the age/mileage, either:
(A) It sat around most of it's life (bad), or
(B) The previous owners installed a new instrument cluster (and defrauded you in the process).

Assuming (A) is more likely to be true, the following additional things above and beyond the 600 mile service need to be checked/done/etc -- most involve rubber that as gone past replacement age:
[Rubber] Tires need to be replaced. Tires are good for a maximum of five years before they harden up too much to grip properly due to loss of VOC's. These tires would fit that description. Best recommendation for replacements IMHO are Metzeler Z6's in the OEM sizes, or the Pirelli Diablo Stradas (also in the OEM sizes).
[Rubber] Brake lines need to be swapped out for the same basic reason as the tires -- age means loss of VOC's which can mean cracking and spontaneous brake failure due to pressure loss. Best recommendation for replacements IMHO are SS-sheathed teflon-lined replacements, and are available from many companies at prices approximately the same as the OEM lines.
[Rubber] Brake caliper piston seals. For all the same reasons as the stuff above.
[Rubber] Fork oil & dust seals, plus fork oils. Ditto...
[Rubber] vacuum and fuel lines. Ditto...
Interior of tank needs to be examined for presence of rust VERY CLOSELY, and should be treated for rust ASAP if any rust is found (explanation is too long for this page -- see my How to deal with Gas Tank rust in your motorcycle webpage).
[Rubber] It is highly possible that rubber o-rings in the carbs will be bad given being parked off that long. If there are any questions about it, replace them -- the O-rings are cheap (although a bit of a PIA to get to), esp compared to running unreliably.
Oil & brake fluids. Since the brake fluid will get changed automatically if you replace the brake lines and/or caliper piston seals, I can leave it at that (recommended brand/type: Castrol GT LMA / DOT 4). The oil ought to be double-changed because of the likeliness of acid by-products having built up in it from condensation during being parked, and the oil cooler should be manually drained at this time too. Given the mileage, I recommend using any cheap dino motorcycle-specific oil that is JASO-MA rated, such as Castrol ACT/Evo or Hondaline 4 (whatever is cheapest). Change oil & filter (& drain cooler), run for 5 minutes, then repeat.
everything else should be covered automatically by the 600 mile service, although asking for a 15k service instead will ensure that everything is done (some dealerships skimp on the 600 mile service, such as the actual valve adjustment check).

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[solidfish]

How hard is it to do this maintanence check up on my own? I have the manual and tools in my garage. I think the only other thing I need would be a bike stand.

Would you know how much (on average) the dealerships charge for this service?

Thanks

[The CyberPoet]

How hard is it to do this maintanence check up on my own? I have the manual and tools in my garage. I think the only other thing I need would be a bike stand.

Your bike should already have a center-stand, in which case you wouldn't need a bike stand (or other support) for anything except working on the front tire & the forks.

If you are competent with basic mechanics, know how to use a torque wrench and a set of feeler gauges correctly, and have a few odd tools not normally included in a reasonable mechanic's basic metric tool set (valve tappet adjuster tool**, a carb sync tool, and optional-but-desirable set of foreceps), you should be able to do the job yourself in four to eight hours the first time out, including laying the fairings bare of the bike & reinstalling them. An experienced mechanic can do the valve-adjustment portion with the body-strip/reassemble in under two hours usually.

** -- I sell this item if you need one.

Would you know how much (on average) the dealerships charge for this service?

Common rate for a 15k or 600 mile service (basically the same thing) is $290 - $320 in most parts of the USA right now, including time, oil, oil filter, disposal fees, and applicable taxes. Obviously, what the shop charges per hour for mechanic's time is the primary decider on cost -- the Suzuki time manual lists the service at either 2.7 or 3.4 hours (I can't recall which), including the valve adjustment, oil & filter change, chain clean/set to spec/lube, retorque 29 bolts to spec, general safety inspection.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[solidfish]

Many thanks for your time and advice. I think I would need to purchase the valve adjustment tool though. Would you give me some more information on it and possibly how I could purchase this from you.

Thanks again.

[The CyberPoet]

Many thanks for your time and advice. I think I would need to purchase the valve adjustment tool though. Would you give me some more information on it and possibly how I could purchase this from you.

See your PM's.

In general, everything I offer for the Kats is here:
http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17251

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet