[Blackbandit]

Ok ill try that soon when i get some free time and let you know how it goes... fingers crossed

So your saying to tie into the orange power wire from the positive terminal?

Or unplug the orange wire and connect the temporary wire directly from the battery to the coil?

[Kreylyn]

Or unplug the orange wire and connect the temporary wire directly from the battery to the coil?

This...

Krey

[Blackbandit]

Ok so i did the test and im still getting the same numbers as before and i took my battery into napa autoshop to get tested.. and it checks out good on a load test. I then hooked jumper cables to my car and boosted the bike. still nothing.

[Blackbandit]

Safe to say its not the battery

[Mikes93Kat750]

You unplugged the coil wires and hooked them up directly to the battery along with boosting the battery at the same time with the same results?
What's the resistance of the coils?

In order for a coil to fire, it needs 3 things. A voltage source, a trigger source and a ground path.
The voltage source can be battery or stator.
The trigger source can be points, cdi, pickup coil or something else.
I just had a vehicle come into the shop where I work with no spark. It ended up being a bad wire from the distributor going to the coil.
Have you done a wiggle test while cranking the engine over?

[92xjunker]

You say no spark....that tells me the pulse generator is the problem. Weak spark would be a voltage issue.

[Kreylyn]

Did you check voltage with a multi meter while testing the bypass?

An electrical fault could be drawing down the power when you engage the starter. A bad connection in the starter for example. A starter in need of rebuild. That would draw down the power even with a good battery or a jump source because it's a massive over draw.

Verify the coils are getting 11v+ before dismissing that as an issue.

Krey

[Blackbandit]

You say no spark....that tells me the pulse generator is the problem. Weak spark would be a voltage issue.

Yes i did check that the signal generator has correct resistance and also tried another signal generator off of running bike

Did you check voltage with a multi meter while testing the bypass?

An electrical fault could be drawing down the power when you engage the starter. A bad connection in the starter for example. A starter in need of rebuild. That would draw down the power even with a good battery or a jump source because it's a massive over draw.

Verify the coils are getting 11v+ before dismissing that as an issue.

Krey

Yes the voltage remained the same when i did the test direct from the battery and i also used a car boost. So im going to check the starter for voltage drop

[Blackbandit]

What do you think about bump starting it?

[Kreylyn]

What do you think about bump starting it?

If you can bump start it fine, but not with the starter, then you definitely have a voltage leech issue somewhere, and I'd guess that was the starter system.

Krey

[92xjunker]

You changed the ignition box, was it the same part number. Those boxes are not interchangeable you need the same part number.

[Blackbandit]

You changed the ignition box, was it the same part number. Those boxes are not interchangeable you need the same part number.

Yes the cdi part number matches up

I have a really good mechanic comming to look at the bike.. ill keep you guys posted if he finds anything

[Blackbandit]

Your first post mentioned you already replaced the CDI. Did it not have one, or was it expected to be the issue to start with?

Does the bike have an original OEM ignition switch being used, or has it been modified or tampered with? Many of the newer model bikes require a specific resistor in the switch to trigger the CDI / ICM to trigger firing the coils. Some cheaper china made aftermarket switches for example don't have that, and so you end up with everything appearing to work but the bike won't fire the coils to run. It's a security / anti theft sort of feature.

If that's the case, the aftermarket control module should by pass that feature, or ... put a OEM switch back on it.

No way to test CDI / ICM with out replacing it, not at a reasonably priced option anyways. Most shops no longer have testing equipment, and it's either a lot of $ for one or you need to have a lot of know how with electrical equip to build one. The swap with known good is the most commonly used choice.

Krey

Update*
Found the problem.. it was the ignition switch. I guess those cheap electical switches are not worth buying.. i sure learned a hard lesson about cheaping out on parts. Straight oem from now on!
Thanks for everyones help on this you guys are great!
Happy riding!

Cheers!