Katana of the Month - May 2008  XMAN75

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Katana How-To's & FAQ's A forum filled with write-ups, FAQ's, and visual aids for
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:34 AM   #41
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Join Date: Oct 2004
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I found a right throttle grip at $17 , but I'm not sure if that includes the tube . Doesn't SOUND quite right ....
I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !

Katrider's rally 2011 - md86
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:03 AM   #42
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Mechanicsburg PA
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking....
98 Integra GSR
96 Kat 750

Don't be like me
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:14 AM   #43
power wheelie extrordinaire

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Originally Posted by WildKat
Originally Posted by md86
Damn , I HAVE those grips , but I can't remember what the hell they are .... They were only like $7 , though . Hey Wildmat , what kind of grips do we have ?
Pro Grips, gel grips..

Those are what I have, and mcmahon put on a pair while at the Rally. Took all of 7-10 mins.
It doesn't matter what you ride, as long as you ride.

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Old 08-21-2007, 04:31 PM   #44
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 115

Default Howto trim the end and get rid of "gap"

Ok, I have the ProGrip 719's also, and they feel great, but they're a little short. I wanted a quick way to trim them down, and tighten up the whole look and feel. I also wanted a quick easy method, 30 minutes max. It's getting extremely hot here during the day, so a quick mod is a good mod. I also wanted something that could be done by anyone, so everyone can do this. Even if you've never done anything like this before, you can do this quick and easy mod, too. Here's what I did.

First of all, let's take a look at the right side. What we can see here is the grip, overing the throttle. The grip is pulled as tight is it can go, and the throttle is set at the end of the handlebar. Still, the throttle is longer than the grip, and leaves a big unsightly bunch of crap sticking out over the end, even with bar ends installed.

There's also a huge gap between the throttle and the throttle cable housing.

First, get under here and remove these two screws.

When you remove them, the housing may just pop off of the bar. No problem.

Once you've done that, the throttle and grip should slide right off. My bar is covered in some ten year old crap, and you can clearly see the throttle sticking way out past the end of the grip. This will not do.

I slid the grip up on the throttle a little bit. I'm about to take the throttle in to the grinder, and want to have a little extra room, in case I shave too much off. You could just as easily do this with a belt or orbital sander. I happen to have access to a die grinder, and that was most convenient for me, so that's what I chose. If you have nothing else, just go get a sheet of 40 or 80 grit sandpaper. Hold the sandpaper down on a flat surface, and rub the end of the throttle across it until you get the length you want. Don't forget your eye protection! Even if you think it's gay - let me tell you, wearing goggles is a lot cooler than picking plastic shards out of your eyeball. Anyway, here's the before pic:

I was sure to burn off the initial "lip" of the throttle, but not sure how much more I wanted to cut off. In retrospect, I probably could have shaved another milimeter without missing anything. Next time I pull the throttle, I probably will grind a little more off... Anyway, here's the after pic:

Before putting the throttle back on, be sure to clean off the bar if necessary. I used carb cleaner to do this. It's quick and easy, but it's also *very* powerful. Be very careful if you use carb cleaner. It can easily screw up all that clean plastic on your dash and gauges. If you're not sure, just spray a little onto a rag, then wipe down the bar with the rag. After cleaning, I also added a bit of Liquid Wrench lubricant. This will help keep a smooth throttle response. Here's the clean bar, ready to be put back together:

Now we just put it back together. Easy. Probably it would be easiest to put the throttle cable housing on first. Make sure that the electrical wiring is in *front* of the handlebar, not behind it. The throttle cable then goes into the little hole on the side of the throttle. Make sure to route the cable around the *front* of the throttle, and put it into the front hole on the throttle. Here's a pic of the throttle, with the two holes for clarity:

Here's a very blurry picture of the correct way to mount in the throttle cable. This is taken from the front of the bike, but you can plainly see I've got the cable routed around the front of the bar, and I'm using the hole in the throttle closest to the front. The reason I keep driving it is this: if you put the throttle cable routed the wrong way, you will have a "push" throttle instead of a "pull" throttle. Not fun.

Don't forget the blue Loc-Tite! This will keep the screws from vibrating out, which is important if you want your bike to actually work.

Ok, so at this point we've done the right side. Let's look at our progress:

You can see above that we've gotten rid of a little bit of gap between the throttle housing and the grip. The only way to remove the rest of that huge gap would be to either sand or file down the larger part of the throttle itself, or to ream out the hole around the throttle housing. Since I wanted a quick easy mod that anyone can do, I decided to live with the results (for now).

With the bar end installed, we can see a huge difference, thanks to grinding off the end.

Great. The right side is pretty well buttoned up, and looking good. Now the left. Here we can see the same sort of problem, although this is simply a bar end, a grip, the electrical housing, and the clutch lever mount. However, there's a huge amount of gap between everything. Right now it looks pretty average:

I've removed the bar end on mine, but it's completely unnecessary. Just slide the grip to the end of the bar end, so that it sits nice and flush.

Next, get under the electrical housing and remove the two *outer* screws only. The one in the middle can stay tight like it is.

This part is basically just like the right, only easier. You don't have to remove the screws completely, just loosen them enough so that the housing will move around. With the grip slid down flush on the bar end, just move the electrical housing where you want it. Retighten the screws. You can also take an 8mm wrench to loosen the clutch lever, and slide it down near the electrical housing. The left side should now be flush. You can see how much it moved by the mark on the bar.

If I wanted to spend a few more minutes on it, I could also loosen up the handlebar and move it more toward the middle, cutting the excess off for cleanliness. Again, I wanted a twenty minute mod. It's nearly a hundred degrees now, I think...

Since I'm installing Grip Puppies after this, the whole thing was done just to make me feel better about it, but again - it's a quick and easy mod, and it sort of buttons the whole area a little tighter.

Finally, here's the last shots, including with Grip Puppies installed:

All in all, 20-30 minutes, and a cleaner look up front. Oh, plus it's free!
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Old 08-21-2007, 06:40 PM   #45
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Went for a ride after the Grip Puppies were installed.

Man, those things are huge. It's just like using a set of those foam cruiser grips. OTOH, there was zero vibration, although I didn't get on the highway.

I went with them because they're easily removeable, and very cheap. I'll ride 'em for a while, then toss 'em if I don't like it. Anyway, just thought someone might want to know. Grip Puppies are awesome if you want a completely dead feel.

I'll probably take them back off, since I don't do too much highway right now, and prefer to "feel" the road. I can stand a little vibration in exchange for being in touch with my suspension. I also ackowledge that I have an *extremely* tight setup, since the addition on the PVC tube spacer mod.

FWIW, still worth the eight bucks just to try it out.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:24 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by quadturbo
instead of using hair spray to slide the grips on you can use rubbing alcohol and throw a match in there when you get them where you want them, then you don't have to wait for the stuff to dry. i don't know how well it will work on motorcycle but ive done it on bicycles.
I would suggest not using hairspray either. If you get any water in between the grips they will slip on you. Not good if it is raining. I used to use hairspray but quit.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:10 PM   #47
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Just thought I'd update based on another post: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1456984

Originally Posted by Teh_K
Originally Posted by zackeone View Post
Just to clarify, you didn't use hairspray on the throttle side, and you've never had any problems with it?
On the non-throttle side, I used hairspray so that it wouldn't spin, and so far everything is ok

On the throttle side, I did not use hairspray because there was no adhesive of any sort when I took the original grip off - so I left it the same. So far, I have not had any problems - except 1 very minor (really minor) annoyance: Over the course of riding (months), the grip tends to slide ever-so-slightly down towards the bar end (probably due to the engine vibrations). This was not a problem on the stock grip because it had extra rubber material that went over the large circular ridge next to the control pod, preventing the grip from shifting left/right (the new grips just butt up against the ridge).

As I said, this is very minor - but if you're hardcore, I think they make special grip glue that will not liquify in water that's safe to use on the throttle sheath.
"Pleasant experiences make life enjoyable, painful experiences lead to growth" - cheap Chinese fortune cookie
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