Front fork damping force adjustment - 3 clicks?

[Yellow2002Kat]

Over the weekend I felt the front of the bike was a little too "bouncy", so I wanted to stiffen the damping force using the adjusters on the top of the front fork.

I followed the manual. Turned them both all the way counter clockwise, then turned, a click at a time, clockwise.

However, each side only seems to have three clicks.

I turn it all the way counter clockwise. Then I begin to go clockwise. There is one quick light click at first, then I turn further until I get a pronounced "click" so I'm considering that my first click. Then I get two more pronounced clicks after that. That's why I'm saying only three clicks, but maybe that one small click is the first click? It's the same on both sides of the fork.

I also noticed that the adjustment screws aren't ever in the same position on both sides. The one on the left goes back a little further when turning counter clockwise and consequently doesn't go as far forward as the right when turning clockwise. Is this normal or should they look more or less perfectly aligned? I wish I had taken a closer look before adjusting

I'd post a pic, but I'm not home right now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm a little nervous to take it out for a test ride because I'm not sure if the damping forces are now adjusted in tandem. Shoulda left the damn things alone

[shefkat2000]

I posted the same inquiree earlier...I shoulda left the damn things alone too!!

Anyone with info please chime in.

[mx916]

Actually I tinkered with mine last weekend. The manual says the forks have 4 settings. the shock has an adjuster by it's resevoir, and one at the bottom of the shock. The manual details proper settings.

[Fingers]

That's right... four settings. The first one is furthest counterclockwise. The second one is the first click from far counterclockwise. The third position is the second click. The fourth position is the third click. Simple math.

1.2.3.4

dots represent clicks, numbers represent position.

[Yellow2002Kat]

I fully understand the math involved. I fully understand the process. I read the manual. I tried to make this clear when explaining my problem in my initial post.

Unfortunately, as I come up from the far left position and turn the screw clockwise, I only have three distinct clicks, with the third click being the last one.

.1.2.3

The dots represent clicks, the numbers represent position.

Can someone with helpful knowledge please tell me if they have an inkling as to what I am experiencing? Please read my first post where I believe I've explained my quandry in detail. I'd appreciate any help that I haven't already read in the manual. It doesn't say anything about what to do if you have only three clicks.

Thanks much.

[bkwife2006]

Hey, 'ol Yeller.

Ya know I recall thinking the same thing. I just went out to the bike and checked mine. Your right! 3 clicks.

Get this though....
position 0 = 1, click =2, click,click=3, click, click, click = 4.

gets how I rationalize it anyhoo.

[Yellow2002Kat]

Hey, 'ol Yeller.

Ya know I recall thinking the same thing. I just went out to the bike and checked mine. Your right! 3 clicks.

Get this though....
position 0 = 1, click =2, click,click=3, click, click, click = 4.

gets how I rationalize it anyhoo.

OK, I think that actually makes sense, meaning one turn from zero is only one click, but actually the second positon. I'll take that explanation and leave mine on...uh...4 Thanks for the help. I'll test ride over the weekend and see how it works out. However, if I get bounced off the bike I'll hold you personally responsible

[The CyberPoet]

There are four clicks on the 98+ models (3 on the pre-98's). The first click is what you are considering the weak click and is usually just slightly clockwise from the full counterclockwise position.

The position of the slots on the top of the forks is totally irrelevant to this measurement (they don't need to be aligned to each other); it is just the click count that matters. Never set your fork in between clicks (including full counterclockwise or clockwise); the clicks denote actual indents on the valve and misseating the valve needle will result in undesirable results.

If you get no clicks what so ever (and your adjuster slot spins freely without ever coming to a stop), it means someone has installed RaceTech valve emulators in your fork instead, which disables the adjuster atop the fork.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Yellow2002Kat]

Thanks CP - that's exactly the info I needed. I didn't know what to make of the weak click as the three other clicks are quite pronounced. Interesting setup. Thanks for answering the alignment question also.

They are fully locked into the fourth click and I will surely go for a ride this weekend to give the changed setup a test. They were on the third click before, but I'm still hoping to realize some difference.

Thanks again CP - you are the king

Still mad at you about suckering me in with that new cruiser, though

[The CyberPoet]

They are fully locked into the fourth click and I will surely go for a ride this weekend to give the changed setup a test. They were on the third click before, but I'm still hoping to realize some difference.

Fork oil and oil seals should be replaced every other year. Just like brake fluid, the system permits some water penetration (minimal), a miniscule amount is lost each time the forks compress & release (maybe 1 drop per 50 compression cycles), plus oil breaks down over time. Since your bike is now 6 years old (based on a production date in '01 for a typical '02 model), if it's never been done, it's time to do it. Going to a stiffer setting is just a stop-gap that may not do what you need. If you want stiffer springs, I do carry Ohlin springs for the 98+ Kats (about 15-20% stiffer than stock).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Yellow2002Kat]

The production date on my Kat is 9/01, so it's coming up on its' 5th birthday. Condsidering the low miles on the bike (~5800) do you think it's better to change out the seals or go for totally new springs? I've never had the seals changed as far as I know... If the seals are just a stop-gap measure as well I'd go for the new springs. I hate the "bouncy" feeling.

[The CyberPoet]

The production date on my Kat is 9/01, so it's coming up on its' 5th birthday. Condsidering the low miles on the bike (~5800) do you think it's better to change out the seals or go for totally new springs? I've never had the seals changed as far as I know... If the seals are just a stop-gap measure as well I'd go for the new springs. I hate the "bouncy" feeling.

The bouncy feeling is the oil and seals (which damp the oscillation of the springs). The amount of fork dive is the springs. Either way, you are due for oil & seals. If you want less dive, toss in new springs too.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Absolutnati]

Sooooo, do these clicks affect your riding (turns and twisties) at all?

[squiggy]

Fork oil and oil seals should be replaced every other year.
=-= The CyberPoet

What?!?!

You mean after nearly 6 years and 61,000+ miles later I should do something about my forks?

I know, I know.

I've have a fork upgrade that is now past the R&D phase and nearly ready for installation. I still need to do the internals of the forks first.

[fireman1724]

Holy Dead Thread!!