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All About Brakes & Suspension Everything from the best brake pads to use, installing new brake lines,
swing arm swaps, adjusting your suspension or rebuilding your forks.
Everything you need to know on those topics and so much more is here.

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Old 11-22-2008, 08:21 PM   #11
squiggy
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I edited the write-up to state which way to install the new oil seals. I also included a pic.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:14 PM   #12
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After several weeks of riding with the Emulators in their default settings (2 turns in), I decided that they were too soft in the compression stroke.

The proces to adjust them is actually quite easy with the right tool.

I worked on one fork at a time so that the other fork would hold up the front end.

First step is to loosen the top triple clamp bolt, if nessesary. I have Convertibars so it wasn't for me. Then loosen the top fork cap as well, just like when doing the rebuild.

When the cap is removed, remove the top washer and spacer. Lay them on a clean rag.

By using a spring loaded parts grabber tool, mine is 24" (61cm) long, feed it down into the fork and grab the top of the Emulator. You wont be able to see it so you'll have to work by judging the weight of the Emulators. Slowly draw out the Emulator, spring and bottom washer, residual oil will drip off of the parts so have a rag available. Lay the spring and washer on the same rag. I also used another rag to cover the open fork so no debris could enter into it since I was working out in the open.











Once you have the Emulator out, put it on a clean work surface to make the adjustment.

By using a 3/8" wrench and a 4mm allen wrench or socket (at least that's what I used) back out the nylon lock nut until no tension is on the top spring. Race Tech calls it a preload spring.

Race Tech says to do the adjustments in 1/2 turn intervals. Default is 2 turns but I went 3 turns. They also say the range for the preload spring is 1-7 turns and race setting or heavy riders is 4 turns.

To make the adjustment insert the 4mm allen into the bolt and turn the gold coloerd body manually by hand however many turns you want. I used the snap ring as a reference point to count the turns.

After that, use the 3/8" wrench to sinch down the lock nut by holding the gold colored body and tighten the nut up to the body.








I found that if I try to tighten the lock nut with the allen socket and 3/8" wrench, that it would only increase the preload on the spring (edit to change "washer" to "spring"). Therefore hold the body to set the spring preload with the allen wrench, then lock in the nut by again holding the body.


After that's done, slip the parts grabber tool down the spring, grab the emulator head then insert both the Emulator and spring into the fork.

Then place the bottom washer, spacer, top washer and install the fork cap and tighten to spec. (edit to add) Then tighten the top triple tree bolt.

After taking it out for a test ride, the compression stroke is much firmer, much better. It definitely made a better improvement.

Last edited by squiggy; 11-28-2008 at 01:02 AM..
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:11 PM   #13
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One other thing I may suggest. When you remove the stock rebound adjuster rods from the fork cap, DO NOT cut them off as RaceTech says. They will simply pry off with a little persuasion from a screwdriver, then you can easily refit them if you ever want to undo your mod.
Sorry it took so long for me to see that in the original write up.
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregS View Post
One other thing I may suggest. When you remove the stock rebound adjuster rods from the fork cap, DO NOT cut them off as RaceTech says. They will simply pry off with a little persuasion from a screwdriver, then you can easily refit them if you ever want to undo your mod.

I tried that first, when you stated it in another thread, but for me, I broke the adjuster. That's why I went ahead and posted in the write-up the way Race Tech said to do it.

Definitely try it first, though.

Last edited by squiggy; 11-23-2008 at 11:18 PM..
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:07 PM   #15
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After going back and forth with some PM's from arsenic, he noticed the differences between the 600 and my 750 fork oil specs.

Here's what Race Tech recommends in their installation instructions for the fork oil and oil level.

  • Model.................................Fork Oil..........Oil Level
  • 1998-2001 Katana 750...........15w............... 105mm
  • 1988-2001 Katana 600...........10w................115mm
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:33 PM   #16
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this is everything you need to know

Last edited by arsenic; 12-07-2008 at 12:47 AM..
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:49 PM   #17
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Perfect.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:54 AM   #18
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ok, let me make a recommendation:
For the extra long 6mm allen socket. It has to handle a lot of torque, better be 1/2" drive. This is not a time you want a ball end or Harbor Freight crap. I have this one, I've used it several times, and I've used it on a 700 ft-lbs impact a few times too:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDi...atalogId=12605
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Old 02-21-2009, 02:19 PM   #19
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I took out the emulators and dialed in another turn for more compression resistance. I felt I was still getting too much fork dive. The low speed is firm but the high speed was too soft before. The emulators are now at 4 turns in. I can definitely feel a difference.
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Old 03-14-2009, 02:51 AM   #20
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ok, squiggy, the 750 is 105mm for the fork oil capacity. Is that why you went 4" down? Cause the 600 is 115mm which is closer to 4.5" down?
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